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2002 SM build

Posted by Jim Drago , 12-13-2011 · 2,126 views

12/13

After seeing a few 2001 up cars running pretty strong, we decided to throw our hat in and try one as well. Naturally, I think we can do better, just like everyone else :) This was a very straight and clean donor. Came from the north ( Chicago), so a little surface rust and sub frame rust on the bottom, but overall, very clean and very straight. Will be real nice when all cleaned up and painted. We won't have to paint the exterior as the paint is real nice, except a few scuffs on frt and rear bumper. That should speed up the build a little bit. After stripping and painting the underside of the last car, it looked too good not to do it again. Lots of work that doesn't make eh car any faster. We have the car back from the cage builders( Notice dash bar :sorry: ) yesterday and we started stripping. Hopefully we will get the interior and the underside painted this week and start assembling the car next week.

Here are some pictures...
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Here are some after we got it back from the cage builders and started stripping.. Removing the sound deadening can be a real mess ...

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OK, for all those conspiracy theorists who claim 20 + lbs of undercoat, seam sealer and insulation pads.. We removed this stuff again from the build ( for cosmetic and fire proofing reasons, not weight) The underside was 3.25 lbs and the interior was just under 2 lbs. So all of it is less than 5.5 lbs now on two 99 up cars, back to back. It sure does make a mess though :) Sometimes dry ice is easier to remove the tar pads, we just buzzed these off.

Here a re a few more pictures...
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12/17
The guys did well this week, they got the car completely stripped and the interior painted and the underside painted. We fumbled around wondering what was the best way to paint it? We decided to just do it all at once. We fumbled around with the dash bar, took it back out to paint as it was only tacked in place. We will re install heater boxes and defrost vents and re install permanently. We are also having some pockets fabbed for those that want to notch the tunnel. I figured we could do something nice and inexpensive and offer it for same for those that also want to notch the tunnel, but don't have the ability to fab the pocket or the charged a lot by someone who does. I should have a picture up soon.
We have some touch up to do, so notching the floor after and painting the bar after isn't a big deal, but certainly doesn't make much sense either:(

Here is where we are today, not working today, but we are fitting this car in between jobs. By the end of the week, it should be a roller with the dash and all the sheet metal re installed.

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12/26
Havent worked on this car for last week or so, we are getting cars prepped and ready for Sebring, we should start up again next week after the cars leave for Florida.

Here are a few pictures of the tunnel notch out panel we made. We will rivet this one in, most are welded in, but either works well.

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Which car will you run now, the 02 or the one you brought to Road Atlanta.
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What's the concern with the dash bar? Cannot fit the HVAC unit or some other reason?
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No concern with dash bar, a few noticed that we didn't use one on the last build blog we did. So i pointed out that it was in this car. ( actually was tacked in, it is back out now until we fit dash and heater boxes, then we will finish it up and weld it in permanently I'm not a big fan of them, but they can only help.

As far as running which car? I will run which ever one doesn't sell. That is what I basically do all the time anyway. Every car I drive is for sale at anytime. I might have a hard time selling a car if I didn't have time to build a replacement for the Runoffs, but would likely still sell. I don't get attached. I really like the new white car, without a doubt the nicest we have ever built, but still would sell. We build them all the same anyway, so it really doesn't matter. I can say I have never sat in a car we built that had some phantom handling issue etc, they all feel pretty much identical as long as the seat fits you the same, all drive the same etc. Maybe I am completely numb, who knows, but I think many over analyze. Build a good car, set it up,tune it well and keep good brakes and tires under you and you will move ahead.

Under the rules the advantages or disadvantages will be very minor and very track dependent regardless. Either car can and will win races. This car resents some new challenges that will make it a little more exciting and or frustrating I'm sure.

Jim
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Have you ever tried Dry ice for removing the sound deadening material? I have had pretty good success on the horizontal surfaces.

Just let sit for a little while and strike it with a hammer.
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Yes, we have. I mentioned it above. Definitely easier, sometimes it just takes less time when you don' have any handy and have the wire wheel in hand :)
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We started another car here today, it is cold enough that we didn't need he dry ice :)
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I could start a thread but since you have this blog...
How do you do all the wirering for all the gauges, etc. ???
I assume it's clean.
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Well...
We run wideban, water temp gauge, water temp warning light, oil pressure and oil pressure warning light.

We put a small fuse panel behind the glove box(6 fuses). We wire the oil pressure and water warning on one fuse, the oil warning and the water temp sensor on another. We wire the in car radio on another, a cool suit on the other, the wide ban on another, traqmate in another.

I buy some wire like this..

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We try and run the wire in the factory sheaths whenever possible.

Jim
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