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#1
jerome187

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has this been discussed before? I'm new and wondering exactly what you need to do to a stock 90-05 miata to get into a spec miata race, reading through the rule book(s), seems like a stock car with no modification is eligible, am I wrong?

#2
Bench Racer

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has this been discussed before? I'm new and wondering exactly what you need to do to a stock 90-05 miata to get into a spec miata race, reading through the rule book(s), seems like a stock car with no modification is eligible, am I wrong?


If you read the rules a bit closer you'll find these items require some attention, roll cage, kill switch, seat harness, fire extingusher, wheels/tires & within any rule where the word "SHALL" is used requiers you do something.

Enjoy the class.
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#3
jeopardyracing

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Jerome -

there's quite a bit to it, and depending on your mechanical and fabrication skill you may need to have help. I built an SSM this winter; here is my blog documenting the process, which some photos:

http://blog.richramb...me=specmiatassm

good luck!

Rich Hoyer
SSM #47 WDCR SCCA

SM #45 NASA Mid Atlantic Region


#4
Tom Hampton

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Get dave Wheelers book the spec miata constructors manual. Www.advanced-autosports.com.

Read rich 's blog, read my blog. Go to events in your area and talk to racers in the paddock.

You have lots to learn, but it's fun! Welcome.

-tch
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#5
Lee Tilton

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This has been said many times: unless you just have to build one yourself, there is no reason not to buy one of the dozens of race ready cars already available for purchase. I am a fabricator by hobby, and wouldn't think twice about buying over building for this class.
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#6
jerome187

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This has been said many times: unless you just have to build one yourself, there is no reason not to buy one of the dozens of race ready cars already available for purchase. I am a fabricator by hobby, and wouldn't think twice about buying over building for this class.


well a prebuilt car seems to go for 10k. just guessing but think i'll be more like 6-7k to to it yourself

#7
Johnny D

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well a prebuilt car seems to go for 10k. just guessing but think i'll be more like 6-7k to to it yourself

You may want to look at used car in the classified and see everything on the list it has and then check prices and add it all up.
J~
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#8
davew

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I make my living building these cars, so I am biased, BUT>>>>

Donor car $3000 minimum for a decent car
Hardtop $1000
Suspension kit $1500
Roll cage kit $750 minimum
Seat $300 minimum
Seat belts $150 minimum
misc safey stuff you have to have $300 fire ext, master switch, padding etc
brake pads, rotors, calipers hoses #$800
1 set tires $600
1 set wheels $600
Tuneup parts, belts hoses, fluids etc $300
My book $19.95

adds up to $9319.95 plus labor (estimate 300 hours of your time), plus any number of things that can go wrong in the process. Like bent parts, clutch slipping, rust problems, engine damage .......

Better rework your budget.

Dave

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#9
dstevens

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My initial budget was just under 7k and that got me everything I needed. The donor and top was 1400 plus the bare bones equipment and me doing all the fab. That would have put me on the track in a car that was ready but not able to be competitive. In my haste to start I bought a cheap donor with a fair amount of rust damage but a solid lower mileage drive train. When I told my wife that I was doing a low end starter build she pretty much demanded (actually she did demand) that either I build or buy or have someone build me a car that could be competitive. She remembers how unenjoyable it was for me in other series to have hammered equipment. I'm just over 10k right now and working towards another 3-4k in other mods, engine, etc. And I'm way behind schedule. Do your homework, buy Dave's book and that will give you not only an insight to an SM build but will give you an idea of what club/hobby racing is all about.

#10
Cy Peake

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Buying is cheaper than building. Save another few thousand and then get a car that you'll be happy with rather than a backmarker that you probably end up selling soon.

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#11
JayF

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well a prebuilt car seems to go for 10k. just guessing but think i'll be more like 6-7k to to it yourself


Double it. 6-7k is not realistic. Also like others said look at all the options that a 10k car includes.


I make my living building these cars, so I am biased, BUT>>>>

Donor car $3000 minimum for a decent car
Hardtop $1000
Suspension kit $1500
Roll cage kit $750 minimum
Seat $300 minimum
Seat belts $150 minimum
misc safey stuff you have to have $300 fire ext, master switch, padding etc
brake pads, rotors, calipers hoses #$800
1 set tires $600
1 set wheels $600
Tuneup parts, belts hoses, fluids etc $300
My book $19.95

adds up to $9319.95 plus labor (estimate 300 hours of your time), plus any number of things that can go wrong in the process. Like bent parts, clutch slipping, rust problems, engine damage .......

Better rework your budget.

Dave


Dave is dead on and I think even his estimate is extremely low and misses out on items you would find if you were to buy a used car. His list doesnt include these which you would find on most used cars:

Fatcat mounts with 99 hats - $350
Endlinks - $130
Cage assumes you can weld and having cage fitting equipment. If not double it. so Extra $750
Safety equipment I wouldnt skimp on and it adds up quick:
Head Restraint seat - $800
Schroth hans belts - $350
Center net - $100
Window net - $80
Steering wheel with disconnect - $300 (unless your tiny there is no way your getting in and out of the car without it.
1 set of wheels and tires isnt realistic, figure at minimum 2 ideally 3 2 drys 1 wet add 1200-2400.

You get the idea. I just spit off 3500-5K in additional items and we havnet included any motor items, exhaust, clutch, pressure plate etc. Building a car isnt cheap at all. It is the route I went but I enjoy the work and it allows me to build the car on a budget as I go. I started last July and I am on the home stretch now finishing up the motor. I havent added it up yet but I know I have at least 17-18k into my car including a pro motor and I bet that figure is closer to 20k. I did a complete tub up build and I have a ton of time into it. For me I didnt have the cash to buy a prebuilt car and I sure as heck wasnt going to spend 30-35k to have a shop build me a top level tub up car. It all depends what you want to do but really do your homework and what ever your budget is, throw it out the window and I'll tell you realistically you can double it.
-- Jay --
96 Spec Miata - Build in progress
North East SCCA

#12
Tom Hampton

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Jay is spot on. You don't build to save money. I built my car for the same reasons... the installment plan, and I enjoy the mechanical job. For me that is part of the journey and fun. I have not spent as much money as the others. But, i got very lucky on my donor and hard top. I haven't done everything that they have done either. I will not be as competitive as they are... but, i have lots to learn drivingwise. I'll focus on the motor and related tweaks when the car is holding me back. Eventually, that money will get spent. I won't buy a pro motor, but I have a different plans.

If you are trying to get on track as fast and/or cheaply as possible you will be very frustrated by trying to build. It will take longer, there will be more problems, and cost you more money than you are prepared for.

-tch
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#13
Colby Scott

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I'm currently in the process of building my own Spec car myslef. Yes buying is in the long run probably going to be cheaper, unless you can do ALL of the work yourself. On my car I will be doing everything except for the engine work and the setup which will be done by Lui Rivera down in Houston. As far as my current cost, I picked up a solid car with no mechanical issues whatsoever for 1,300. Yea I got a great deal on this particular car, but I have found several great cars for under 3,000, just use searchtempest.com to browse craiglist or check ebay. As far as a safety equipment goes, I installed the Miatacage.com cage which cost a 1,000, and I just shopped around for the best price on everything else. If your willing to settle for some used gear check out racingjunk.com and you can usually find some good stuff for pretty reasonable prices.But like everyone else has said, buying is cheaper and less of a hassle than building a car, just make sure to know what you're looking for when shopping for a pre built car.

#14
Tim

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what do you guys use to cut out the inside of the doors to fit around the naascar bars and drop weight?

#15
Greg Kimble

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Tim,

A body saw does the job nicely.

Greg
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#16
Keith Andrews

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#17
JayF

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sawzall like keith did. Then i cleaned the edges up with a file.
-- Jay --
96 Spec Miata - Build in progress
North East SCCA

#18
Tom Hampton

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Angle grinder with Cutoff wheel.

-tch
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#19
dstevens

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what do you guys use to cut out the inside of the doors to fit around the naascar bars and drop weight?


Plasma cutter, takes under a minute per door. Before I got the cutter I used a Sawzall then switched to a cut off wheel.

#20
Lee Tilton

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Plasma cutter, takes under a minute per door.


Do this BEFORE you paint the car. Don't ask me why I know this.
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