16 replies to this topic

[juliancates]

Looking at the FSM, removal of the upper ball joint boot goes like this:



Is the intent here that you will split the metal collar at the bottom of the dust boot? Is this the easiest way, or is there another means?

Also, when installing new grease and boot, how much and what type of grease? Just glob on some moly grease until it looks right then press the new boot on with a 30mm socket?

[LarryKing]

I was not aware that a separate upper ball joint could be purchased. My understanding is that the UCA and ball joint must be purchased as a unit.

[Tom Hampton]

No. You are wedging the ring off. You don't need to get the dust boot FULL because it is going to compress when you put it back on...and excess will squeeze out. Maybe half-full-ish. Redline CV2. Yes, 30mm socket. I used a C-clamp with the socket to press the boot back into place.

Follow-up: get the chisel / screw driver / whatever in between the edge of the dust-boot and the ball-joint surface. Wedge it off. It comes off pretty easily. Be sure you use a 12 pt socket.

Edited by Tom Hampton, 12-22-2011 10:26 AM.

[Tom Hampton]

I was not aware that a separate upper ball joint could be purchased. My understanding is that the UCA and ball joint must be purchased as a unit.

You are correct. He's asking about the boot...which can be ordered separately.

[juliancates]

I was not aware that a separate upper ball joint could be purchased. My understanding is that the UCA and ball joint must be purchased as a unit.

Not replacing the ball joint, but rather replacing the dust boot and regreasing.

No. You are wedging the ring off. You don't need to get the dust boot FULL because it is going to compress when you put it back on...and excess will squeeze out. Maybe half-full-ish. Redline CV2. Yes, 30mm socket. I used a C-clamp with the socket to press the boot back into place.

Have to go at this anew, then. I tried wedging it off with a screwdriver, and didn't make much progress. Didn't have a lot of time to spend on it, though. I'll pick up an appropriately sized chisel and give it another go. Thanks!

[Tom Hampton]

I did mine with a large slotted screwdriver and a hammer to help drive it between the ball joint and the ring. The ring seats pretty tight, but once you get it to budge, its gravy after that.

[juliancates]

I did mine with a large slotted screwdriver and a hammer to help drive it between the ball joint and the ring. The ring seats pretty tight, but once you get it to budge, its gravy after that.

So... instead of driving from the side as indicated in the picture, you are driving down from the top, with the old boot cut away?

[Tom Hampton]

No, I actually did mine with the UCA still in the car, knuckle removed (of course). The UCA mounting bolt makes a great vise! I was searching my site for pictures...but, I didn't take any of the act itself. I must not have taken any pics because it didn't give me any trouble.

Anyway, since I did mine while still atached to the car, I sat on the ground in front of the wheel opening. As such, it was natural to hold the screw-driver (in my right hand) so that the handle was coming off the ball joint in a mostly forward (driver's side...reverse this for passenger) direction...so that it was just clear of the fender lip for easy access with the hammer (in my left hand). I placed the blade of the screwdriver right on the crease between the boot-lip and the ball-joint. I angled the screw driver blade downwards towards the boot by a few degrees...basically resting on the shaft of the screw-driver on the edge of the UCA. A few judicious blows with the hammer opened the crease enough to begin working my way around the perimeter. I do remember having to use a reasonable amount of force with the hammer to get the initial separation. I'm pretty sure I used a smaller hammer similar to the one pictured in the FSM (8oz ball-peen).

[Keith Novak]

I've used a gasket scraper to get the gap going. Looks kind of like a long screwdriver with a really broad tip and a sharp edge. The problem with a chisel is a chisel point is really blunt. The trick is just getting something sharp and stiff enough between the parts to get a gap started. The gasket scraper is more of a light duty, thin edged chisel.

[davecarama]

I used my friend Brent to get that thing off. Too messy and frustrated at the time, so I delegated.
He is out in Maryland, I can send him down to help you if you need. He is a great tool to have handy for the difficult jobs.

[Glenn]

Removed one on the bench this weekend, took all of 20 seconds to get off, hope the install is as simple. FYI used a stiff scraper and lifted it right up.

[LarryKing]

Can you actually get grease into the joint?

[Glenn]

Can you actually get grease into the joint?

See below:
http://clubroadster....ead.php?t=34883

[LarryKing]

Just wondering out loud - could you use a syringe to inject grease through the gap between the stud and the boot?

[Glenn]

Just wondering out loud - could you use a syringe to inject grease through the gap between the stud and the boot?

Past post on old site said .....NEVER GONNA HAPPEN, boots are cheep found Poly for $2.00 each and Mazdas are $6.00 ea.

[juliancates]

OK, this comes down to me being a retard.

I read somewhere about the boot having a metal ring at the bottom... figure this was something substantial that got pressed on. So when I spent the first 5 minutes with it... let's just say I was trying to pry the @#&^$ ball joint off, not the dust boot.

When I got back from vacation today, I had a couple of new dust boots amongst some other goodies waiting for me in a package on the porch. One look at them and I realized I had been "doing it wrong". Ran out to the garage, grabbed a screwdriver, and 20 seconds later the dust boot was off. Easy peasy. I *knew* it couldn't be as hard as I was making it out to be!

[ChrisA]

If you take the new boot with you to Lowes, you can find a PVC pipe fitting that will fit the seal perfectly. I've had the socket method cut boots before when pressing them on. The pipe fitting worked well and they are cheap.