31 replies to this topic

[Honey Badger]

I am in the market for an enclosed trailer. I am having a hard time deciding between a 20' and a 24' enclosed trailer. I would like to keep the trailer at my house so a 20' would be better for that, on the other hand I know there isn't such a thing as too much room in a trailer. I would like front cabinets, a generator compartment and the room to carry spares, including a transmission and 6 sets of tires.

For those of you with 24' trailers, do you need to move the car forward a little bit to get the weight forward enough? How about those with 20' trailers? I am trying to determine if you need to move the car forward say a foot or two more in a 24' to get the weight correct, reducing the usable space in the trailer by that amount. Or can you pretty much put the car just far enough into the trailer to get it tied down.

[Mike Collins]

Buy the biggest trailer you can safely tow.

[Honey Badger]

I have a 3/4 ton single rear wheel diesel. So towing either is not an issue. Storage is the problem. I just want to make sure that I will actually get 4 more usable feet with a 24' vs a 20'.

[Mike Collins]

Buy the '24 you will happier in the long run. just make sure it has big axles on it or it would be very easy to overload.

[ARMRAM]

Go for a 24 footer.

We load ours towards the rear, as all the spares, tools, etc and the generator are up towards the front.

I am in the market for an enclosed trailer. I am having a hard time deciding between a 20' and a 24' enclosed trailer. I would like to keep the trailer at my house so a 20' would be better for that, on the other hand I know there isn't such a thing as too much room in a trailer. I would like front cabinets, a generator compartment and the room to carry spares, including a transmission and 6 sets of tires.

For those of you with 24' trailers, do you need to move the car forward a little bit to get the weight forward enough? How about those with 20' trailers? I am trying to determine if you need to move the car forward say a foot or two more in a 24' to get the weight correct, reducing the usable space in the trailer by that amount. Or can you pretty much put the car just far enough into the trailer to get it tied down.

[Zauskycop]

Did you say SIX sets of tires?

I have never seen a 20' trailer with a generator compartment

I would automatically say a 24' is your best bet, and you can find PLENTY used if that is your choice. Racerjunk.com

[Greg Kimble]

I have a 20' that we tow with an F-150, in restrospect wish we had gone for the 24' for the very reasons you are asking. I say 24' is a better choice.

[Honey Badger]

Did you say SIX sets of tires?

I know it seem crazy right... Really I just am tired of storing them in the garage so I want to move them to a trailer. With NASA and SCCA running different tires, the amount of wheels necessary has really gotten crazy.

[Honey Badger]

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like a 24' footer it is.

[Honey Badger]

Buy the '24 you will happier in the long run. just make sure it has big axles on it or it would be very easy to overload.

By big axles, you mean 5200lbs? or bigger like 6K axles? It seems like an average steel 24' trailer weighs in around 4500-4800 lbs dry. That "should" leave me enough with 5200lb axles, I think.

[RacerX]

+1 on getting larger axles. Most people associate a larger trailer and its additional space with the ability to carry more "stuff", which potentially results in exceeding the weight capacity of the trailer.

It appears you are already sensative to another area of concern, loading the trailer correctly to achieve the correct Tongue Weight (10-15% of GTW). The challenge is getting everything, including your car, correctly distributed inside and tied down in a position that will achieve the correct balance. Installing and using tire racks gets them off the floor and if positioned correctly can help you optimize some of the movable weight in the trailer.

The following is an exccellent resource to research and understand these issues --> http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm

If you're not already familiar, other issues you might want to research include weight distributing hitches, sway bars, and electronic brake systems.

Lastly, don't cheap out by going with a "fly by night" trailer manufacture, there are horror stories out that that you don't want to be a part of (to include this one http://www.garagejou...ead.php?t=36910)

Good luck, Rich

[Mike Collins]

You want 6k axles and E rated tires or you will blow them out anywhere north of 65. I know everyone says "I'll never tow over 65 mph... BS!!! Last run group, 300 miles away, 5 hours to home and you have a report at work due the next morning. YEP... Spend the money on the on the Axles and tires now and you wont be looking to "upgrade" in two years when you get tired of replacing tires on the side of the road!!!!

[Honey Badger]

You want 6k axles and E rated tires or you will blow them out anywhere north of 65. I know everyone says "I'll never tow over 65 mph... BS!!! Last run group, 300 miles away, 5 hours to home and you have a report at work due the next morning. YEP... Spend the money on the on the Axles and tires now and you wont be looking to "upgrade" in two years when you get tired of replacing tires on the side of the road!!!!

Thanks. And I know I will tow more than 65mph...

[FTodaro]

I went thought this process last year. I agree with Mike, go for the 24, the 20 foot will have less resale value as well as its not big enough to get car and extras in the trailer. I ended up going with a 22 ft V nose, the v nose is 4 foot so it’s like a 24 foot flat nose.

I went with all aluminum trailer for gas mileage and towing reasons, plus I want to be able to tow in the winter to go south and steel trailers do not do well with salt.
I like the v nose pulls well, big trucks do not upset the trailer.

[Zauskycop]

Well, don't say a 20' trailer won't work...it just won't work for him! I carry 2 extra sets of tires, rolling tool box, canopy, workbench, Honda Generator, scooter, lots of spare parts (including transmission) jackstands, jack, AND a microwave quite easily in my 20' trailer. That said, it has taken me a few years of trial and error to get the layout correct.

[Brendan O]

Should I avoid 24' "cargo" trailers? Does the trailer company (Pace, Haulmark etc) put the axles in a different front/rear position compared to a "car hauler"?

thanks

[Honey Badger]

Should I avoid 24' "cargo" trailers? Does the trailer company (Pace, Haulmark etc) put the axles in a different front/rear position compared to a "car hauler"?

thanks

That is what I have been reading.

[Honey Badger]

Also, I am trying to make sure a 24' will not bottom out on my driveway approach.... How much does the trailer overhang past the rear wheel? If someone has one nearby and could measure the distance from the end of the trailer to the edge of the closest tire I would really appreciate it. Also how high the bottom of the trailer is off the ground when the trailer is level. I have found 11" to be pretty common.

[DBender]

Brian. Go to BravoTrailers.com give them a call and they will help with everything you have a question about. A trailer can be built for you or they will find you one that meets the specs you desire. And in 5-10 years when that trailer is still towing great you will be happy you made the call. Also, I would go with a 24' from what it seems you want.

[Gatoratty]

I have a 24 foot Featherlite V nose. I keep the car with the engine over the axles as I have workbenches and cabinets in the nose. E track with alum cargo bars for a tire rack over the hood. I tow it with a Ram 2500 diesel.
I also use a Reese load leveling hitch and sway control which makes towing at 70-75mph a breeze! Also make sure to inflate the tires properly to avoid blow outs.
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