11 replies to this topic

[thatdamnbmwguy]

I really want to pursue spec miata racing. Looking to find out info before pulling the trigger and possibly kicking my self down the road. For a donor car what year should i go with the 1.6L years or the 1.8L years?what kinda of budget am i looking at? From my research on forums and such Im seeing between 6k-10k. Would it be a better idea to just buy used? Is there any publications on how to build a spec miata? Im just looking for feed back thanks guys.

[Ron Alan]

Your question has been asked and answered 100's of times...but this is a great community so people will spend time to answer once again I will start by saying the book you want is by Dave Wheeler with Advanced Autosports. If your a do it your selfer build...if not then buy. Double your budget estimate...then you'll be more realistic. Though it can certainly be done for under 10k if you fall into the right deals. I'll let others chime in more... BTW...use the search button!!

[dstevens]

You can get a 6-10k car but it's not going to be competitive at the national level and depending on your region, not competitive there either without some work. Though at times there are good deals from motivated sellers. Figure 15k for something competitive, the front runners at the national level are at 30k plus. Depends on what region you run and where you want to run in the field. The forum is pretty much ground zero for SM in both NASA and SCCA. Lots of champs, racers, builders, dealers, suppliers, etc.

There is a book, it's The Spec Miata Constructors Manual by Dave Wheeler at Advanced Autosports in Beloit, WI. (davew on the forum) Best 20 bucks in SM I've spent.

Search current posts and the archives and you'll find what you need. The year of the car discussion is like picking a scab...

Opps, looks like Ron beat me to it.

Edited by dstevens, 07-27-2012 10:45 PM.

[DrDomm]

Buy a used car. There are plenty of good choices for (nearly) all budgets. You'll get to racing sooner than if you build. If you aren't sure yet, go rent a car.

[svvs]

What Domm said. Also I own a 1.6L and wouldn't trade it for the world because of personal attachment.....but I'd consider buying a '99 if I had to do it all over again. Newer and nicer to work on, and they look cooler.

Right now in the NE decent 1.6L cars and early 1.8L cars are in the $12K range +. I'm starting to see 99's south of $20K, in some cases closer to $15K.

If you're going to buy a car, make sure it's straight (chances are if it's a miata it's been hit), and make sure it has a quality cage (for some reason I think this is the most important thing). Also ask how old the shocks are. After that, chances are you'll be replacing pieces like motor in a few years, suspension bits, etc. Go sit in some seats and see which one fits you best while you're at it.

-Vick

[davew]

Thanks for all the positive plugs on my book. We just discussed this a couple weeks ago. So do a search and you will find the thread.

As I say every time this question comes up READ READ READ

Read this website, ignore the personal BS and learn from the mechanical stuff
Read the GCR for the group you are running with
Read my book

Then read them all again.

Dave

[Bench Racer]

This weekend at Decatur,TX (north of Dallas a bit, 4 hours at the speed limit from Austin), meet some drivers, with permission look at there stuff & maybe, sit in their car to get a real feel & fall in .

The event with schedule info. http://texasscca.org...ly2012Final.pdf

[MPR22]

I agree with David Dewhurst. Drive on up, we qualify tomorrow at about 8:30 and we race about 1:00. Almost all the miatas are in the same paddock area so you can meet and greet lots of drivers of all levels and see lots of cars, almost all models represented.

[Justin Baltrucki]

If you are over 185 lbs you prob dont want a 1.6 because its very hard to meet even SM min weight. I am 162 lbs and have a 1989built - 1.6 - supposed to be the lightest version. For ssm the min weight is 2275 and I can barely meet this without a fire system, or cool suit and only 3.5 gallons of fuel. I can meet the 2300 weight for SM with sprint race fuel levels and a cool suit for the hot days. Would be nice to add a fire system too. So keep this in mind as it's hard to find weight reduction in the 1.6 cars and run all the safety equipment/creature comforts you might want.

[Bench Racer]

If you are over 185 lbs you prob dont want a 1.6 because its very hard to meet even SM min weight. I am 162 lbs and have a 1989built - 1.6 - supposed to be the lightest version. For ssm the min weight is 2275 and I can barely meet this without a fire system, or cool suit and only 3.5 gallons of fuel. I can meet the 2300 weight for SM with sprint race fuel levels and a cool suit for the hot days. Would be nice to add a fire system too. So keep this in mind as it's hard to find weight reduction in the 1.6 cars and run all the safety equipment/creature comforts you might want.

On the other hand, I have a 90 1.6 that with extra tubes in the cage, 1 usable gallon fuel, 2 gallon in the cool suit contaner, hand extinguisher that hits the scales at 2020 pounds. 2300 - 2020 = 280 pounds to use as you see fit. I'm 6 foot, 200 something pounds. Helmet, Defnder, suit, cool shirt, gloves, shoes totals 12 pounds. There are plenty of heavy 1.6 cars out there. I was building a safe car & eliminating everything legal to meet minimal weight.

[davew]

I hate to agree in public with D-Dew, but he is right. It is very easy to get a 1.6 car under 2050 (less driver-fuel-doodads). Mine are usually around 2030

Dave

[Alberto]

FYI on weight - I have an early 1990 base model car. I'm 195 lbs. I needed to add ballast to make weight. I have not specifically tried to lighten the car. I'm told that I could probably trim 10-20 lbs off of it if I really tried.


I also agree that cage is an important selection criteria. Cage was one of the most important decisions in my selection process.

I built my car over the course of a year. Lots of work but mostly fun. You won't really be "competitive" (i.e. running up front) w/o a pro head at least. At least not here in SFR. your region may be different. Get out there and talk to people. I dyno'ed at 107 rwhp on my stock street engine w/o a pro head. I'm still having fun even though I'm toward the back. I'm competitive with all the other guys that don't have pro heads or pro motors. Skill is more important to get you up front.