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First time removing tranny...what else to switch out?


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#1
stillentwint17

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Hi all,

 

i'm a complete noob at all this so my apologies for the blatant ignorance in advance. A few months ago i posted a thread, discussing oil leaking from my engine into my tranny. I decided to forget about it until I got a few (previously purchased) track days out of the way. Now, I have 3 weeks until my next track event so I'm going to remove the tranny to fix the rear main seal. That seemed to be the prognosis at the end of that thread. (thanks for the advice on that thread. I purchased all the tools and parts specified to me).

 

As I am removing the tranny, I'm debating what else I should switch out, such as getting a new tranny rebuilt and putting in a new clutch, just because i will be down there. My tranny seems fine, i think. I miss 3rd gear quite a lot but that could just be me. An instructor sat in my car and said the clutch was going becuase it was rattling. I dont feel any slip in it but he had said there's something going on with it.

 

Since I'm removing the tranny, is it worth switching out the clutch/flywheel and get a re-built tranny just due to the hassel of having to remove it, or should i just leave it and switch out the seals/gaskets.

 

My car is a spec miata from the 90's or so. Its pretty slow but its a lot of fun.

 

I'd greatly appreciate any and all input.

 

Thanks guys,

 



#2
Glenn

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Hi all,

 

i'm a complete noob at all this so my apologies for the blatant ignorance in advance. A few months ago i posted a thread, discussing oil leaking from my engine into my tranny. I decided to forget about it until I got a few (previously purchased) track days out of the way. Now, I have 3 weeks until my next track event so I'm going to remove the tranny to fix the rear main seal. That seemed to be the prognosis at the end of that thread. (thanks for the advice on that thread. I purchased all the tools and parts specified to me).

 

As I am removing the tranny, I'm debating what else I should switch out, such as getting a new tranny rebuilt and putting in a new clutch, just because i will be down there. My tranny seems fine, i think. I miss 3rd gear quite a lot but that could just be me. An instructor sat in my car and said the clutch was going becuase it was rattling. I dont feel any slip in it but he had said there's something going on with it.

 

Since I'm removing the tranny, is it worth switching out the clutch/flywheel and get a re-built tranny just due to the hassel of having to remove it, or should i just leave it and switch out the seals/gaskets.

 

My car is a spec miata from the 90's or so. Its pretty slow but its a lot of fun.

 

I'd greatly appreciate any and all input.

 

Thanks guys,

Clutch, PP, throw out Bng, Pilot Bng, and resurface flywheel are all recommended.  Rebuilt box is good idea too as well as new shifter boots (both) as they are probably shot.


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#3
Sphinx

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Replace the turret bushing (hard to replace once tranny is back in the car) and the rear main seal if you see any leaks.  Check to see if you are leaking coolant from the "cursed water plug." (You didn't say what you year you have, but it's an issue on 1.6L's).



#4
fotostars

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I'm going at that same job this WE on a 1.8L :-) I'll let you know how it goes. It doesn't look too bad from a distance but I'm sure the devil is in the details...


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#5
FTodaro

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Do a careful exam of where the oil is coming from, could be the rear main, it could be the seals that fit in the oil pan.

Frank
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#6
Sphinx

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I'm going at that same job this WE on a 1.8L :-) I'll let you know how it goes. It doesn't look too bad from a distance but I'm sure the devil is in the details...

 

 

There's a nice tutorial on the miata.net site. AFter you do it the first time, it's a piece of cake.

 

While you are there, you might want to swap out your "curly fry" clutch line with a stainless steal braided one.



#7
stillentwint17

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Thanks a million for the help guys. Its a 1992 1.6L. Whats a PP Glen?? Also, this is a stupid question, whats a turret bushing. I'm going to look it up after posting this, but just wanted to make it aware i dont know what that is yet. fudge, i love this forum. Everyone is so damn helpful, thanks Glen, Sphinx, fotostar and FTodaro. I just sprayed freeze off on all the bell housing screws. Im about to attack the tranny now. Should i drain the engine oil as well as the tranny fluid? As i'm going to remove the rear main seal....or any other seal ( i purchased all the seals/gaskets i could from mazda, oil pain, head gasket, and a few others) should i drain the engine oil also..?

 

Thanks everyone.



#8
Keith Novak

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A PP is a pressure plate.  Its the part that clamps the clutch to the flywheel.  When you pull the shifter out of the turret, the turret bushing is the plastic piece that goes on the ball on the bottom end of the shifter where it fits into the turret.  They crack or deform over time.  If you're replacing the rear main, drain the engine oil.  I doubt the oil actually fills the engine high enough to leak out when sitting still but we generally replace oil quite often so you might as well change it while you're at it.

 

When it comes time to fill the trans with fluid, first put some in the turret.  Not too much or you'll make a mess when you insert the shifter.  This keeps you from winding up buying an extra quart for a couple ounces if you dump all 2 quarts in the trans (or on the floor).  Get yourself a good sized funned and attach about 4 ft of flexible plastic tubing small enough to fit in the fill hole.  Use a hose clamp or tape to keep the two from coming apart.  You can support the funnel by the brake master cyliner and snake the tubing down into the trans fill hole.  BY FAR the easiest way I've found to fill a trans.


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#9
Keith Novak

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One last thing...  Once you install the trans, check the adjustment of your clutch pedal.  Different parts can fit differently and the factory settings have the engagement point very high on the pedal stroke.  If it's set too high, your clutch can slip under load just like you have your foot partially on the clutch.  I adjust mine so the engagement point is as low as it can be adjusted to.  You'll find out how much fun adjusting it is when you get that far.  :yep:


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#10
Randy Thieme

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I like NAPA's giant elephant syringe.  Costs about 12 bucks.  18 oz per stroke handles a quart in about two strokes.  One draw from the bottle, one squirt into the differential, repeat, and you're pretty much done filling the diff.  About as easy for the tranny too.  One thing though is the stock tubing barely fits into the fill holes for the tranny and differential so I added a plumbing reducer and smaller tubing from the hardware store.  

 

A while ago I heard of people having issues with oil leaks from the differential due to a clogged breather.  Since they're fairly cheap from Mazdaspeed I went ahead and replaced mine on both the diff and tranny.  Mazda part number for the tranny breather is 0884-17-530.


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#11
Qik Nip

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Just my $.02, but if I were digging into the rear main seal, I'd pull the engine and transmission together. The added work might involve two hours max and give you a much better access to get at everything.

Rick.


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#12
LarryKing

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Shifter turret should be filled with 80-95 cc of gear oil. Transmission case hold 2.1 quarts.

 

What's a 'Bng'?


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#13
Glenn

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What's a 'Bng'?

Exactly the same as a BFH, only slightlly different.......hint they are used in mufflers........


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#14
LarryKing

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Oh, I thought it framistatted the hemulators.


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#15
fotostars

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This is what I found this WE taking mine out:

http://mazdaracers.c...utch-plate-uhm/

 

I also realized that re-installing is going to be an enormous challenge. I can't picture yet how to get it aligned properly with the block. I may need to find/build a tiny transmission jack that fits under the car on stands :-(


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#16
LarryKing

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If you R&R the FW don't forget to RTV.


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#17
trimless

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Good catch, without thread sealant yo0u will have an oil leak!


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#18
trimless

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This is what I found this WE taking mine out:

http://mazdaracers.c...utch-plate-uhm/

 

I also realized that re-installing is going to be an enormous challenge. I can't picture yet how to get it aligned properly with the block. I may need to find/build a tiny transmission jack that fits under the car on stands :-(

 

Richard, I use two old bolts with the head cut off to help align the
transmission.  You can also use all thread cut to proper length as well.
Put in the alignment bolts,  one on each side and rest transmission on
these. Then you can align as needed to stab the input shaft through the
pilot bearing and you are done.  Pay attention to the angle of the
engine. Once the tranny is pulled the engine will lean forward so you
need to use a support to get it close to where it was to align
everything properly.  Hope that helps.


 


If doing this on your back, it helps to go to the gym and bench press for a few weeks :)


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#19
Glenn

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Richard, I use two old bolts with the head cut off to help align the
transmission.  You can also use all thread cut to proper length as well.
Put in the alignment bolts,  one on each side and rest transmission on
these. Then you can align as needed to stab the input shaft through the
pilot bearing and you are done.  Pay attention to the angle of the
engine. Once the tranny is pulled the engine will lean forward so you
need to use a support to get it close to where it was to align
everything properly.  Hope that helps.


 


If doing this on your back, it helps to go to the gym and bench press for a few weeks :)

I lay on my back withe the gearbox on my chest and with my head under the flywheel, that way I can see if the box is aligned side to side and top to bottom.  Use your knee to guide the tail of the box.  Common causes for difficulties include, cluch cuirley q line blocks access, PPF not far enough out of the way, Pilot bearing came dislodged, not blocking the motor from rocking forward.


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#20
Qik Nip

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Richard, I use two old bolts with the head cut off to help align the
transmission.  You can also use all thread cut to proper length as well.
Put in the alignment bolts,  one on each side and rest transmission on
these. Then you can align as needed to stab the input shaft through the
pilot bearing and you are done. 
 

Holy eased tranny swap Batman. That is simply ingenous! Kudos Trimless.

Rick


 


2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
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SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.



 

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