8 replies to this topic

[Sphinx]

Looks like'll be buying a new construction house this winter.  So, I'm trying to figure out which floor paint to use.  In my last house, I did a Rustoleum Professional Epoxy that held up great.  http://www.rustoleum...duct.asp?pid=14  The only issue we had is that we also applied their clearcoat (sold separately) with its sand aggregate.  We had two issues:  1) It wasn't as "grippy" as we would have liked.  Our then-5 year old, slipped and factured his foot on it when it was wet. and 2) the clearcoat began to yellow over time.

 

Otherwise, after 6 years, it held up great without any issues.

 

If I was to use it again, I'd go with the tan - last time I did light grey.  I think the tan will help drown out the yellowing clearcoat.

 

Are there any other products that you guys would recommend?

[wheel]

This is the product I used, but I did not use the clearcoat or the aggregate, just did three coats and left it smooth.  There is a water based product, that most home improvement stores stock.  That is not the one you want.  I had to have Westlake special order the epoxy version.  This handles overspray, brake fluid, etc. without problems.

wheel

[Adax]

I've done 3 with this stuff and have no complaints at all. if doing it again I would use some flecks to hide weld spatter burns but that's about it. I didn't fleck it the first time because I thought it would make it easier to see dropped fasteners and stuff, which it did, for a while. I did NOT find it slippery without the grit.

 

http://www.epoxy-coat.com/

 

This is after 5 years of use, it looked like frosted glass initially:

 

[TJKearney]

I'd like to add:  Of those that have applied an epoxy coating:  How much concrete spalling would you think your chosen product would fill?  "Deep orange peel"?  "English Muffin"?  Etc....  (I'm sure Saul S. will love my descriptions/definitions).

 

Thanks,

TK

[Sphinx]

I've done 3 with this stuff and have no complaints at all. if doing it again I would use some flecks to hide weld spatter burns but that's about it. I didn't fleck it the first time because I thought it would make it easier to see dropped fasteners and stuff, which it did, for a while. I did NOT find it slippery without the grit.

 

http://www.epoxy-coat.com/

 

This is after 5 years of use, it looked like frosted glass initially:

 

 

I like how on their website they don't include the Rustoleum Professional which is oil based.  I don't doubt that it is a good product, but leaving out key data is a little self-serving.

[wheel]

I don't think the Rustoleum epoxy could really be said to fill anything.  It is pretty much like painting a car with improperly sanded bondo.  It just makes the imperfections nice and shiny.

wheel

[Adax]

I'd like to add:  Of those that have applied an epoxy coating:  How much concrete spalling would you think your chosen product would fill?  "Deep orange peel"?  "English Muffin"?  Etc....  (I'm sure Saul S. will love my descriptions/definitions).

 

Thanks,

TK

All depends on how much you can afford to use. I used 2x the recommended amount and it is very smooth. A single roller coat will show most all concrete texture. Epoxy is not like paint; it will not stick to anything so you cannot run it up the base-board for instance. It self-levels which fills voids below the surface nicely but it will simply run off any protrusions above the surface.  Be sure to do all the acid surface prep and let it dry for about twice as long as you think it needs before applying epoxy.

[Muda]

Saw this stuff at PRI.  I think I'm going to use it on the new garage.

 

https://rocksolidfloors.com/

[Vance J]

I did a 12000sqft garage with sherwin-Williams epoxy. Did primer then 1 coat of grey with shark tooth mixed in. This adds traction, is finer then sand. Been very happy with this for 6 years. No yellowing or fading.