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Quick release spline slop.


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#1
stillentwint17

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Hi all,

 

I recently purchased a SM and noticed a lot of play (axially and radially) within the quick release steering wheel. The female spline (adapter side) on the quick release shows a lot of damage. It is all burred and the splines are eroded within the adapter. I have a hard time forcing the wheel to lock on the steering shaft (axially) as well as notice a lot of radial play when steering.  As I'm new to SM and working on cars, i was wondering if someone knew what the best route for me to go about this issue would be.

 

1- Should I remove the Steering rack and quick release altogether and purchase a new kit (including the steering rack)? Currently the male spline portion is welded to the steering shaft. I dont see any easy way to remove this. The spline on this end looks great. My plan initially was not to remove this as it looks quite invasive but i am worried about the huge amount of aluminum shavings that have collected within the bearings. I haven't noticed any notchiness while driving but it still doesnt look right. (pictures below)

FAD10527-E989-4322-B609-72BAA7C1DF44_zps

 

2- Remove the damaged spline on the quick release (steering wheel). If so, does anyone happen to know what the adapter spline MFG is? I've searched the internet the last few hours and havent been able to find it. 

 

CCE66E2E-AD4C-4A39-8E62-3E3B8DCF90BC_zps43EFBFD2-5A82-4287-A56D-96373D3A2DF3_zps

 

I would like to go away from the spline quick release but with the spline welded to the steering shaft, i dont know if htis is an option at this point. Any opinions on quick release versus the 6 ball releases?

 

I'd greatly appreciate any input. 

 

Thank you,

 

 

 

 

 

 



#2
Jeff Wasilko

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Looks like a Sweet to me:

 

http://sweetmfg.biz/home.php?cat=61


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#3
Adax

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I researched QR's extensively during my build, and the answer to your question depends on your budget. A decent fabricator can remove and weld on a better QR of your choosing. Ball bearing ones seem to have less play. High-end splined ones are available (Sparco has a nice one but it is available with other less expensive brands stamped on it) but I suspect all splined ones will eventually develop play. Site vendors sell quality splined ones for good prices. My other car has a ton of play but I only notice it when sitting still.

 

NRG provides what I suspect are affordable Chinese knock-offs of the original Works-Bell ball bearing QR. I had a WB one for some time and it was top-notch. The pretentious say NRG stands for Not Real Good.

 

http://www.tunersgro...II_is_made.html

 

I went with this one:

 

http://store.bimmerw...ease-p1557.aspx

 

It's crazy expensive but feels like a precision instrument. It's the small things in life.

 

 

AC


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#4
Glenn Davis

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I have been driving for 3 years with an early gen NRG and it is very positive on the lock and real tight.


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#5
Bench Racer

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I did not look at the products previously suggested and I am not a believer of welding on the steering shaft for any reason. Our friend Dave Wheeler at Advanced AutoSports has a totally bolt on deal for IIRC $205.00 Install a salvage yard steering shaft (not rack and pinion)to get back to OEM so that you can bolt on the adaptor for the quick releaes.

http://www.advanced-...9074b162c727fa
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#6
38bfast

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We have not used the splined hubs in years. We really like the NRG 2.5 quick release. It's cheep and works very well. Trust me you will be very happy with it. Get an old salvage column and swap it out.
Ralph Provitz
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#7
Chris Ashcraft

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My QR has some has some slop i will occasionally use paint on the steering shaft splines to tighten it up last a couple of weekends before i
need to redo it. The next build will not be a weld on!

#8
Todd Lamb

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NRG will be the last quick release you'll need to replace....they lock on firmly and only go on one direction.


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#9
Jim Drago

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I use the NRG as well and like it very much. Miatacage just came out with one that is much nicer and not terribly expensive.

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#10
Alberto

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I use the NRG as well and like it very much. Miatacage just came out with one that is much nicer and not terribly expensive.

Jim

 

Wow.  That MiataCage QD looks pretty slick.  One handed operation is nice.  The NRG requires two hands to remove the wheel.  Hopefully, I'll be able to see it in person when the Oregon crew comes down to race with us.

 

http://miatacage.com...disconnect.aspx


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#11
Johnny D

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Wow.  That MiataCage QD looks pretty slick.  One handed operation is nice.  The NRG requires two hands to remove the wheel.  Hopefully, I'll be able to see it in person when the Oregon crew comes down to race with us.

 

http://miatacage.com...disconnect.aspx

 

A real deal for racers with one hand. :)

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#12
Jim Drago

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Wow.  That MiataCage QD looks pretty slick.  One handed operation is nice.  The NRG requires two hands to remove the wheel.  Hopefully, I'll be able to see it in person when the Oregon crew comes down to race with us.

 

http://miatacage.com...disconnect.aspx

 

 

It is very slick!  Also, I removed the pin from my NRG so you can remove with one hand. The safety button was a real pain in the ass!


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#13
john mueller

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It is very slick!  Also, I removed the pin from my NRG so you can remove with one hand. The safety button was a real pain in the ass!

 

I did the same, perfect with the pin removed.


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#14
Todd Lamb

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Yeah I didn't even understand the safety pin - it makes it unsafe. Removed as well.

 

Might have to try the Miatacage version on the 01.


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#15
Adax

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Wow.  That MiataCage QD looks pretty slick.  One handed operation is nice.  The NRG requires two hands to remove the wheel.  Hopefully, I'll be able to see it in person when the Oregon crew comes down to race with us.

 

http://miatacage.com...disconnect.aspx

It looks functionally similar to the Kontec mentioned above so I'd imagine it is excellent.

 

Never really understood the weld-on fears. There is never more stress on the weld than you can apply with your hands. I'm sure someone has heard of one breaking off but I suspect it was due to technique rather than method. Far more higly stressed components are held togeter with smaller welds.

 

Sorry for the focus but I'm calling this truck:

 

IMG_1127.JPG


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#16
38bfast

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The problem with the weld on style is if you don't like the quick release your stuck. Or you have to put in a new column.
Ralph Provitz
V2 Motorsports

#17
davew

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I am personally 100% against the welded on quick releases. Some where on this site is a video of one breaking in the middle of a race. Not a fun experience for the driver. Welding is not a bad system, but it requires the right skills, and often the car builder does not have those skills. I had a customer years ago complain that the car would not turn right. We scaled it and checked tires and everything else. What was happenning was his weld on hub had cracked loose. Not enough to fall off, but enough to rotate about 1/4 turn in the right hand direction. Turning left it was fine. Took all day to figure it out.

 

We sell a bolt on kit as mentioned above. We do the welding on the bench so you know it is solid and will go right on for you. But you will need a new steering colume. We have just completed our deal on the NRG line. We should have them in stock and on our website within a week. We are also working on a new steering wheel program. Looks like a high end $400 wheel for less than 50% of that price. Again, give me a week to line up my ducks.

 

Dave


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