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Pulling a stock engine, what to do to make it easier next time?

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Best Answer Aaron Pettipas , 01-06-2014 11:07 AM

I cut the bottom out of the 3rd bolt bushing so the bolt does not need to be removed to pull the coil... saves time, without the stress on the coil bracket that leaving the bolt out can cause.

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#1
fotostars

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Engine pull is a topic beaten to death but I've noticed a few things in the middle of doing it that are worth mentioning and also a few questions.

 

Here is what I'm doing to ease future work:

* I'm getting rid of most of the wiring "brackets" and will zip-tie only what's really required.

* Changing to braided stainless line for the clutch.

* Installing Remote Oil pressure sensor while engine is out

 

Now for the questions:

Q1. It seems that keeping the coil pack only with the top 2 bolts and not installing the 3rd one at the bottom would ease R&R with the engine still in the car. Are you guys doing that?

 

Q2. The "big aluminum bracket" under the intake manifolds is in the way of one screw to R&R the alternator R&R.

This bracket has one bolt at the bottom that could be a challenge to get to with the engine in the car. As anyone removed it and is running without?

 

Q3. Is there some better "routing" of the stock wiring around the injectors and the starter/alternator to make it easier next time?

 

Thanks for the wisdom guys...

 


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#2
Jim Boemler

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I left the third coil bolt out, and it does ease the R&R, but I also found that the vibration on the top two bolts cracked the valve cover.

 

The intake manifold has a huge amount of leverage, and I suspect the engine vibration would destroy it without the brace.  I wouldn't even try it.

 

I always thought about running the wiring loom along the tunnel, instead of along the PPF, so the PPF could be removed easier.  Never actually did it, though.  I never found the injector harness to be a problem, but a nice big plug in the alternator lines could be a benefit.  Beware it's a high-current wire, though.



#3
LarryKing

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I concur with Bozo. My general rule of thumb is if a part looks like an engineer spent some time designing it then it's probably there for a good reason.

 

If you don't have one already buy a swivel-head 3/8" drive rachet. I use a Craftsman. Makes getting to the "3rd coil bolt" easy-peazy.

 

Never had any issue with R&R of the intake bracket. I remove it regularly to get at the oil filter after some dripshiz (me) overtightened it.


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#4
marcusmazza

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I had the bottom or '3rd bolt' fall out once. Don't know how long I ran it without, but the steel bracket that holds the two coils ended up cracking at one of the two other bolt hole locations. Luckily, it didn't crack the valve cover. As for the intake brace, I notched mine in order to make removing the oil filter easier.

 

Marc



#5
Jeff Wasilko

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On the coil, after I swapped it once I didn't get the upper bolts in tight enough, and I wasn't using the bottom bolt. The car started bucking badly, and I discovered the loose coil pack. I assume the pack needs contact with the engine for ground.



#6
Aaron Pettipas

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✓  Best Answer

I cut the bottom out of the 3rd bolt bushing so the bolt does not need to be removed to pull the coil... saves time, without the stress on the coil bracket that leaving the bolt out can cause.


aaron


#7
Jim Boemler

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For oil filter access, I went a different route.  I bent the steel fuel supply lines back (down and towards the fender if I recall).  With them out of the way, access was pretty easy, and I stopped scraping up my wrists.



#8
fotostars

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Thanks guys. Very helpful. Looks like I'm going to keep all those parts in after all...

Just posted another thread on EGR delete.


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#9
fotostars

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Done. The new engine started with no issues ;-)

 

I'm proud of myself as this is the first time I was doing a rebuild and an engine R&R

 

Now let's hope it runs for at least a season and does reasonable power! TBD next month...


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