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Where'd my ball bearing go? Hub repack help...

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#1
Alberto

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Had my first attempt at repacking hubs yesterday.  While trying to pry one of the bearings from the race, it popped up a good 8-12", hit my eye glasses and bounced off never to be seen again...  Tore apart the work bench area and garage but haven't found it yet.

 

Some questions:

 

1. Can the ball bearings be sourced separately?  If so, from where?

 

2. I have some spare, used hubs but they are still attached to the uprights.  Any suggestions on removing the hub nut so I can remove the hub and use those hubs for rebuilds and spares?

 

3. Having never looked at the inside of a hub before, what wear marks should I look for?  The ball bearings themselves look good - nice and shiny, no blue heat marks or flaking chrome.  I haven't looked at the hub itself yet.  They were new from Mazda Comp circa 2010/2011.

 

Thanks.


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#2
Ron Alan

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Can't help you find your balls Alberto :)

I don't take the balls or keepers out anymore. I take paper towels or rags and wipe the bulk old grease out first. Then spray with WD40 and do the same thing. Then WD40 again and spray with compressed air(be careful not to blow out the small metal band that is inside the rubber portion of the seal). Last is to hit real well with carb or brake cleaner. Then repack and put races back in! This all takes 5-10 minutes!

My impact takes the hub nuts right off($100 1/2" craftsman...awesome tool for the value!)
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#3
Alberto

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Thanks for the advice. 

 

Too late for me to follow it since my balls are out all over the place. ;) 

 

Why WD40?  Is it b/c you aren't removing them from the races?  I would have thought that one would use something with better 'cleaning' properties than Water Displacement Formula 40 to clean bearings...


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#4
Ron Alan

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I really don't know why I use it...but it works in a very mild/slow manor seemingly harmless to anything else including my hands and senses! It softens the old grease enough that it blows out easily. Try it on your shower door hard water stains...you will be surprised! I swear by WD40 now for getting old rusty axles out of hubs! The last 4 I had that didn't want to press out I stood them up and let the WD40 penetrate for a day or 2 and then a small brass hammer was all I needed!

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#5
Brandon

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Ron - if you're such a fan of WD-40 then you know what those letters and numbers mean!  ;-)

And I'll have to give that rear upgright/axle trick a try.  I've got one that the 12T press won't even budge!

 

Alberto, I personally would remove the balls/retainers as doing so permits you to inspect the hub's inner race surface.  You want to be looking for unusual wear patterns and/or changes in level of 'shininess' of the surface to identify where you might have issues.  Now, to correct your current situation of replacing a single ball, you may have to rely on Drago or Wheeler to get you one from a hub they won't rebuild/repack.  It was only recently the seals were finally available for purchase individually so rebuilding a hub is less of a gamble when it comes to salvaging that part...

 

I'll see if I can get a decent picture of a couple of my hubs that took a solid, wheel-to-wheel hit over a weekend and upon returning home & prepping for the next event exhibited "positional movement" laterally.

 

I grabbed the top/bottom of the wheel & pulling in/out checking for play, then rotating 25* and checking again...it would only have movement at the one position.

 

Disassembling it and cleaning all parts, checking the inner race I noticed three graduated circular marks (small, medium, large respectively) "around" the face thus making the hub junk.

The balls showed no issues, the retainers were still intact, and the seals were tight.

 

It means is I now have a set of long studs to install in my next pair of hubs!


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#6
Jamz14

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Go to your local bearing store and pick up bearings all the same size and replace them all. You will probably get better life out of the hub afterwards anyway. You will pay about $10 for a box of them. Our just get a new hub for about 50 bucks.


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#7
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Go to your local bearing store and pick up bearings all the same size and replace them all. 

You will pay about $10 for a box of them.

And the $10.00 per box grade would be???  :noidea:

 

 


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#8
Ron Alan

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Ron - if you're such a fan of WD-40 then you know what those letters and numbers mean!  ;-)

And I'll have to give that rear upgright/axle trick a try.  I've got one that the 12T press won't even budge!

 

 

At some point years ago I got one of those emails that went around...explaining the benefits and cool things about WD40. Developed by NASA i believe...water displacement(as Alberto said)formula #40. Mostly fish oil if I remember right. 

 

Before on stubborn axles I had tried numerous times with PB blaster and others with very little benefit it seemed. With the nut off and the axle/upright standing against the wall, I would fill up the little bowl around the end of the axle. The difference I found was the PB blaster would still be there a few days later. The WD40 was gone...it had penetrated down around the splines every time(4). Granted, I did not try this on the same axle after one method failed...but what the axle splines looked like when removed(wet/rusty)told me the WD40 penetrated much better.


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#9
Johnny D

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

J~

 

WD-40

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
 
 
 
History[edit]

It was developed in 1953 by Dr. Norm Larsen,[1] founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, in San Diego, California. WD-40, abbreviated from the phrase "Water Displacement, 40th formula,"[2] was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion,[3] and later was found to have numerous household uses.

Larsen was attempting to create a formula to prevent corrosion in nuclear missiles, by displacing the standing water that causes it. He claims he arrived at a successful formula on his 40th attempt.[3] WD-40 is primarily composed of various hydrocarbons.

WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin, and more importantly, the paper thin "balloon tanks" of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.[3][4] These stainless steel fuel tanks were so thin that, when empty, they had to be kept inflated with nitrogen gas to prevent their collapse.

WD-40 first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego, California in 1958.[3]

 

Function[edit]

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[5] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away.

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages, and it also loosens stubborn zippers. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.

Due to its lightness (i.e., low viscosity), WD-40 is not always the preferred oil for certain applications. Applications that require higher viscosity oils may use motor oils, while those requiring a mid-range oil could use honing oil.[6]

 

Formulation[edit]

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product was not patented in 1953 to avoid disclosing the details of its composition; the window of opportunity for patenting the product has long since closed.[4][7] WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

  • 50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". The manufacturer's website specifically claims that this fraction in the current formulation cannot be accurately referred to as Stoddard solvent, a similar mixture of hydrocarbons.[8]
  • <25% petroleum base oil, presumably a mineral oil or light lubricating oil.
  • 12-18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon, to reduce the viscosity for use in aerosols. This fraction evaporates during application.
  • 2-3% carbon dioxide, presumably as a propellant, is now used instead of liquefied petroleum gas to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability.
  • <10% inert ingredients.

The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:

It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. (Ordinary rubber is ruined by repeated exposure to petroleum products.) Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.

Wired published an article giving the result of gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy, claiming that its ingredients also make it resistant to freezing.[9]

 

WD-40 company[edit]
220px-WD-40_Headquarters.jpg
magnify-clip.png
WD-40 Company headquarters in San Diego

Rocket Chemical Company was founded in 1953. In 1969, John S. Barry, on becoming President and CEO, changed the name to WD-40 Company after what was then its only product. John Barry, who died July 3, 2009, reportedly made the name change on the basis that the Rocket Chemical Company did not make rockets.[4][10] The company went public in 1973. Its NASDAQ stock symbol is (NASDAQ: WDFC). In recent years the WD-40 company has acquired several household-products companies, adding such brand names as 3-In-One Oil, Lava, Spot Shot, X-14, Carpet Fresh, and 2000 Flushes to its roster. The company still has its corporate offices in San Diego, California.[11] It now markets its products in more than 160 countries.

References[edit]

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#10
Keith Novak

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And the $10.00 per box grade would be???  :noidea:

Sort of roundish.


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#11
Bench Racer

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Sort of roundish.

:yep:  while  :rotfl:


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#12
Jamz14

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And the $10.00 per box grade would be???  :noidea:

The point was that if you want a single bearing go to the Fing store and get it. Replace all of them and then you don't have to worry about the size tolerence being wrong. Pay $20.00 for the more roundish, pay $100 for the super roundish. Or just ask the guy at the counter for an accurate price check and get his reccomendation for quality. Or pay the $50 for a new hub, or find the one that was lost. Or pay me to hold your hand and do your work for you. Jesus, so much drama over a ball bearing. You guys will argue anything.


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#13
Jamz14

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Here, does this help? Right here in my old home town. They are bearing experts and can answer all you round questions. King Bearing Inc

Google+ page Â· Be the first to review

  5107 Walker St, Ventura, CA 93003
(805) 656-6066
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#14
Johnny D

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The point was that if you want a single bearing go to the Fing store and get it. Replace all of them and then you don't have to worry about the size tolerence being wrong. Pay $20.00 for the more roundish, pay $100 for the super roundish. Or just ask the guy at the counter for an accurate price check and get his reccomendation for quality. Or pay the $50 for a new hub, or find the one that was lost. Or pay me to hold your hand and do your work for you. Jesus, so much drama over a ball bearing. You guys will argue anything.

 

But...But...But...

 

See you at LS, hope your not this cranky :)

J~


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#15
Jamz14

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Hey Johnny,

 

Sorry, I am being a bit cranky. My comments were not directed to Alberto at all. I think he asked reasonable questions. But every time someone gives even a bit of advise it tends to be picked apart to no end. Are the bearings $10 or $20?

 

No wonder Jim gets fatigued with us. Anyway....... I am looking forward to seeing you , and Ron, and all the other guys. I think I am just getting itchy to get back to the track, especially after our last disasterous outing.

 

Sorry all for being a bit grumpy.


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#16
Johnny D

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Here...

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Q-GLuydiMe4

 

Better now? :)

J~


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#17
Jamz14

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Johnny,

 

LOL! Thank you my friend. You actually cheered me up greatly with that link. I ended up taking all my clothes off, jacking my computer into my audio system, blasted it full blast, and danced around the room with all the windows open and a Stella in my hand! Beer and someother unmentionables were flying everywhere and lifted the mood.

 

I am worried about the neighbors though. They may need counseling.

 

Now don't be bringing me down by asking me technical questions about my Fing sound system or my private package Bench. :)


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#18
Alberto

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Thanks for the help - and amusement fellas. :)

 

 

Johnny,

 

LOL! Thank you my friend. You actually cheered me up greatly with that link. I ended up taking all my clothes off, jacking my computer into my audio system, blasted it full blast, and danced around the room with all the windows open and a Stella in my hand! Beer and someother unmentionables were flying everywhere and lifted the mood.

 

I am worried about the neighbors though. They may need counseling.

 

Now don't be bringing me down by asking me technical questions about my Fing sound system or my private package Bench. :)

 

I'd love to see video of that! ;)  Did it look anything like this: :banana:


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#19
Johnny D

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Post #16 ^^^ or check my post on FB.

I'd guess James did look like that :banana:

 

I do have to give credit to Charlie, his positive attitude is contagious.

J~


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#20
Jamz14

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You don't real want to see that. Hell my wife doesn't even want to see that. Maybe that is why I'm grouchy. :)


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