17 replies to this topic

[Mikhael Haddad]

Just spent my first day in the car, and my seat is getting uncomfortably hot. It got to the point where 15 min into the session i wanted to come off track because it became unbearable.

Im running a wide seat and had to move the tunnel closer to the exhaust.

The previous owner says its an SD exhaust, it looks nice but it has a large magnaflow which basically touches the tunnel right by where the seat is. (wondering if SD uses magnaflow). And theres not much room before it hits the torque arm (i think its called that), or I would contemplate moving the exhaust over.

 

I'd like to get into enduros at some point, and i need a comprehensive solution.

 

What are you guys doing as far as heat insulation, and are we allowed to wrap the exhaust?

 

Thanks

Mike

 

[wheel]

9.1.7.m.4.f exhaust system

1. f.  No portion of the exhaust may be wrapped with any type of insulating tape, nor shall any portion of the exhaust, internal or external, be coated with any thermal coatings. 

[Jeff Wasilko]

is it legal to put http://www.designeng...n tunnel/floor?

[Keith Andrews]

I think Jeff is saying it is legal to put heat insulating stuff on the tunnel both inside and out side the cockpit.  I have both and they definitely help.  If you want an alternative exhaust look into MBS the muffler is much further back and it is a great fit http://www.mandrelbe...1,-2002,/Detail  

 

Either way the tunnel gets hot but it should be tolerable.

[RussMcB]

I swapped from SD to MBS, not for heat reasons, but with the MBS muffler in the back (under the trunk), that would probably help you.

 

I don't know if one makes more HP than the other, but I was happier with the fit, quality and sound of the MBS.

[Keith Novak]

There is the possibility it's running too lean.  My car was quite comfortable even for enduros with the SD exhaust until I was able to lean mine out some and it immediately got hot at my right foot.  It might be worth checking that you're not running it too lean and making the exhaust too hot.  I have a wide aluminum seat that touches the transmission tunnel and my seat does not get hot at all.

[Keith Andrews]

There is the possibility it's running too lean.  My car was quite comfortable even for enduros with the SD exhaust until I was able to lean mine out some and it immediately got hot at my right foot.  It might be worth checking that you're not running it too lean and making the exhaust too hot.  I have a wide aluminum seat that touches the transmission tunnel and my seat does not get hot at all.

 

Interesting thought.  I am aware of using EGT for engine tuning.  I never thought of it as a way to adjust the cockpit environment.   

 

Rich in the summer lean in the winter 

[RazerX]

Check for air leaks such as at the shift boot.  If they are in the right location they can change the air flow dramatically and dump a lot of heat into the car.  When i used to drive my car to the track in the winter i would unbolt the back two of the boot and then use a wedge under to control the 'heater' as i drove to the track.  I have raced in a lot of enduros and three 25 hour races, and they never get that hot, even without heat shield insulation. 

[davew]

Make sure the down pipe has the heat shield on it. I have seen many cars where this was removed when the car was still street driven.

 

make sure there are no holes in the firewall where hot air can enter the cockpit. And the shift boot as mentioned above.

 

We use   http://www.advanced-...asy to install.

 

Vent windows will blow outside air into the car. this may lower your overall interior temp. I often put the NACA duct style in the passenger side and the pop-out style in the driver side.

 

Dave

[Mikhael Haddad]

Thanks a lot guys you have sparked a few ideas for me.

 

Some of you mentioned tuning, i'm under the impression that we are not allowed any ecu tuning/modification?

Hence the fuel pressure reg allowance.

[Keith Novak]

Correct, the ECU may not be modified.

[Alberto]

+1 to what Dave said about the heat shield on the downpipe.  The heat shield on mine was missing so I replaced the downpipe with a used one that I got off craigslist for $20. 

 

I used the DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield on the underside of the car on the tranny tunnel and right in front of where my feet go on the firewall.  Makes a HUGE difference.  You can install it with the engine and trans in the car - I did.  Just cut it into strips and pressed the pieces on.  Prep is important though.  I used the POR 15 cleaner / degreaser.  Worked very well.  Much better than the Purple Stuff I tried on another car.  My car's interior remains  comfortable even when racing in 100*F CA heat.

[Bruce Wilson]

Exhaust shouldn't be touching anything except for the hangers.  You'll find temps will go way down even if there's a less than a half inch clearance.  Right now you butt's acting as the heat sink.  There is some tolerance differences with SD exhausts, so you may need some minor adjustments.  Loosen the downpipe to exhaust bolts and position so that even when you wiggle the exhaust, it doesn't bang against anything.  You may need to remove from the hangers and apply some pulling force to slightly bend the whole thing a little until you get the clearance you need.  Don't do this without the downpipe mount bracket long bolt in place.  It's really not that hard to fix, and that's coming from a non-mechanic type.

[Ron Alan]

 Don't do this without the downpipe mount bracket long bolt in place.

I realize this bracket is important but I curse those that leave it on when I crawl under their car at the track

[Bad Rusty]

Umm sorry.....but I have cold beer

[Ron Alan]

Umm sorry.....but I have cold beer

I never say no to coffee or beer...but I've done some pretty crazy things for Tequilla(or was that after?)

[AW33COM]

Exhaust shouldn't be touching anything except for the hangers.

 

That.

 

 

My car also has the big Sparco seat with a cut tunnel, and SD exhaust.  When you make that big seat sit straight and at the bottom, the SD exhaust will touch the "new" tunnel. 

 

The solution:  Remove the SD exhaust.  Take a big hammer,  hammer in that corner part of L shape tunnel until it's like 1/2 inch away.  It's just a small part you have to hammer in.  It may still make funny rattling noise when you start the car, but that's about it.   Plus, like already mentioned put insulation on inside and outside (outside will work better), and you're done. 

[Sphinx]

+2 on the heat shield.  First time I got in my car, my right foot sustained serious sunburn.  A downpipe with the proper heat shield fixed it.  That was a painful experience!

 

 

+1 to what Dave said about the heat shield on the downpipe.  The heat shield on mine was missing so I replaced the downpipe with a used one that I got off craigslist for $20. 

 

I used the DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield on the underside of the car on the tranny tunnel and right in front of where my feet go on the firewall.  Makes a HUGE difference.  You can install it with the engine and trans in the car - I did.  Just cut it into strips and pressed the pieces on.  Prep is important though.  I used the POR 15 cleaner / degreaser.  Worked very well.  Much better than the Purple Stuff I tried on another car.  My car's interior remains  comfortable even when racing in 100*F CA heat.