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Bottom End Rebuild Break In?

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Best Answer chris haldeman , 08-06-2014 06:10 PM

Just call me or Drago. The answers on here will be sooo confusing and different you won't know what too do. Totally agree with Ross.
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#1
jrhenson

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Hey Guys,

 

I just put my engine back together after having the crank and rod ground and the cylinders honed, new pistons and rings, and my RE head put on. I put Gibbs break in oil in and have run it up to temp a few times, took a short drive to load it up some, and brought it up to temp a few more times. My question is about the break in process. When should I change out the break in oil? I am doing a T&T Friday at Mid-Ohio before the race weekend. Also, there is a lot of data out there talking about not using synthetic for a while. Does that necessarily apply to our racing engines?

 

Some advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Jim



#2
MPR22

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This should be interesting. I bet the answers the shade tree mechanics give is different than what the engine builders say.
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#3
chris haldeman

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✓  Best Answer
Just call me or Drago. The answers on here will be sooo confusing and different you won't know what too do. Totally agree with Ross.
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#4
jrhenson

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Thanks for the talk Chris - Much appreciated.



#5
chris haldeman

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Anytime
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#6
Ron Alan

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So Chris...just post up your thoughts on what works for you please!

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#7
FTodaro

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What! your supposed to change the oil?


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#8
chris haldeman

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Idle 20 min
Let cool
2000 rpm 20 min
Let cool
3000 rpm till fans kick on
Change filter top off with Gibbs br30
Them run it hard just avoid limiter
Watch for oil pressure too drop alittle then change too synthetic and race it. Pressure drop usually happens in 3-4 sessions.
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#9
chris haldeman

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Let cool completely!!! Most important part of break in is heat cycles too allow parts too expand and contract slowly
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#10
FTodaro

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Idle 20 min
Let cool
2000 rpm 20 min
Let cool
3000 rpm till fans kick on
Change filter top off with Gibbs br30
Them run it hard just avoid limiter
Watch for oil pressure too drop alittle then change too synthetic and race it. Pressure drop usually happens in 3-4 sessions.

Some people recommend on a fresh rebuild to 

pull the plugs, crank with starter at 10 second intervals to make sure you get oil pressure and no fuel leaks

then at first idle, start at 2000 RPM to keep  oil pressure up and good circulation on the valve train, then 3000 and back it off as it frees up.

and on the first oil change cut filter before you proceed

and make sure you use non syn oil until after the first weekend.


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#11
chris haldeman

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I would agree with that for initial fire up.
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