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What Terminal Ends For 1.6L Diagnostic Port?

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#1
Randy Thieme

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1.6L car ('93). Connecting the AIM unit to the RPM output in the diagnostics box. In the past when I've needed to make a connection there, like for jumpering the fuel pump, I've just used a paper clip or a piece of wire. Now I want something a little more solid that won't lose connection during the race. For the time being I've made do by cutting down a spade terminal with a pair of wire cutters. But it's kind of loose. Does NAPA or anyone sell a terminal end of the right size and shape I can crimp onto the wire and stick into the the diagnostics box? Thanks in advance.
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#2
William Bonsell

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1.6L car ('93). Connecting the AIM unit to the RPM output in the diagnostics box. In the past when I've needed to make a connection there, like for jumpering the fuel pump, I've just used a paper clip or a piece of wire. Now I want something a little more solid that won't lose connection during the race. For the time being I've made do by cutting down a spade terminal with a pair of wire cutters. But it's kind of loose. Does NAPA or anyone sell a terminal end of the right size and shape I can crimp onto the wire and stick into the the diagnostics box? Thanks in advance.



Randy...my son just found the wire driving the tach signal going into the diagnostic box and tapped into that wire and then electrical taped up the splice. Works fine.

Bill

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#3
Mark Zwolle

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You can use a wire tap that clips over the wire and taps into it without cutting the wire. It clips to the wire and if you tape them up they are pretty secure.


MZ
Mark Zwolle
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#4
Randy Thieme

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Tapping into the wire is probably what I'll do. Thanks everyone.
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#5
NigelStu

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Better option would be to pull the signal off the back of the stock meter. There is a screw on the back that is part of the tach circuit that will fit a ring terminal. I'll try to find/post a picture of it later.

If you are replacing the stock meter with a display, you can still pull the tach signal out of the meter plug that should still be there. I actually pulled the tach signal pin out of the connector, soldered the pick-up wire to the tach signal wire and put the connector back together. About as clean an install as you can get.

Either way provides a more robust connection compared to the splice clips and keeps extra wires out of the engine bay.
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