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lower control arm replacememt

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#1
porsche77

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First thanks for the add. 

     I have autocrossed and time trialed Porsches for a bit. Been on a few pit crews for ALS and Rolex series cars I really want to get into head to head racing and hanging around the Porsche pits where the spare tires are worth 10x my car helped me make the decision to look into spec miata.

   I bought a semi straight doner car that has a few thing to sort out. I intend get it sorted and upgrade it to at least a solid Autocross car this winter. I understand if i use a half preped spec car I woun't be very competive, but I'm hoping it will teach me the car and get me ready for next winter final spec build. (or talk me into saving my money up to buy a completed car? )

   First order of business is the steering wheel is at a 45* angle and the front right wheel has some seroiuse curb rash. Took it by my local alighment shop and as expected the lower control arm is bent. I figure I will get a spare, install it so I can a least have the car mobile for working on it etc.

   My rather long question is, is there anything else I should be doing while I'm down there? I still have front main seal and exhaust to sort before I get seriously into the suspension, Just didn't want to replace the control arm and then learn there were a couple things I needed to do at the same time.

    thanks for any advice I'm sure I will have a few hundred other questions as I get smart enough to ask better ones :)

 

 



#2
Johnny D

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I'll start. Welcome.

Have a name?

So you a 91 and in Ashland.

All depends on your budget and what your short term and long term is really.

You can do a search up top/right for "newbie" and get what some will post.

I'd visit others guys at the track. Some are here. Miatacage.com in Portland.

Become a member at Mazdamotorsports.com for parts.

http://mazdamotorspo...catalogId=10001

Get DaveW's book at

http://www.advanced-...&products_id=42

 

But back to your question....

You could just replace the arm with a junkyard part and it may or may not be bent to,

to add the SM suspension kit and replacing everything with new.

Arms, bushing, alignment cams, new or repack the hubs, SS brake lines, take off the brake shield.

Or buy a SM

Up to you and something you need to figure out.

You can search, up top there are some builds.

Always welcome to ask.

J~


2011 NASA Western Endurance Racing Championship E3 Champ
We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver Novel Approach - When a paragraph simply won't do... Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill Instigator - Made a topic or post that inspired other Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+

#3
porsche77

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Thanks, on my second reading of the book. Keep looking for scheduels for races, either PDX or Thunderhill. Nothing like seeing real cars in the p
its to get you jazzed. Thanks, Jerry

#4
luvin_the_rings

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You can pick up a used control arm from a junkyard or the stores mentioned above by Johnny D ($50-$80), then replace the Lower Ball joint with a new part from O-reilly's or NAPA ($83-$150).

 

http://www.oreillyau...990&make=Mazda 

 

I'd make sure to replace the Lower Ball joint, as most of the cornering load goes through the lower arm.  People have witnessed some ugly incidents when Lower Ball Joints fail mid corner.  

 

Might as well do the Steering Outer Ball joints while your in there.  Often the impact will cause damage in the joint that doesn't show itself until your knee deep in a stint.  

 

I also replaced the rear lower outer suspension through bolts, and alignment offset bolts on all the adjustment points.  



#5
Jim Drago

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I WOULD ADVISE MAZDA OEM BALL JOINTS ONLY.. I have seen many aftermarkets fail. It is not worth the few dollars in savings if you end up hurting yourself or the car due to ball joint failure.
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#6
Marc Cefalo

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I second mazda oem ball joints only!!!!!  

 

 

make sure you actually use the shop manual, torque them to the proper spec.  pin the castle nuts!!!!!!   with an accident or direct hit on the wheel, change them after the weekend at the very least.

 

three separate incidents of lower ball joint failures i've been around that other competitors expirienced.  one at the glen at turn 11 (NOT GOOD), one at turn 1 at njmp and one at PIRC.  the last two incidents were at tracks with decent runoff room thankfully.

 

with some of these topics, i think we need a thread on what people "think" they can skimp on.

 

yes not everyone can afford the great motor, paint job and so forth but c'mon.  we're racing as a hobby and no one wants to see someone get hurt or end their day because of poor workmanship or the thought of saving money.


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#7
wreckerboy

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As I'm getting ready to freshen the car this winter, this is timely. How often do you proactively replace the ball joints, or do you just wait for looseness and then replace?
Rob Myles | "I didn't lose, I got out-painted!"
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