Jump to content

Photo

Mazda Factory Driver: Andrew Carbonell

* * * * * 1 votes

  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1
Johnny D

Johnny D

    Veteran Member

  • Moderators
  • 6,121 posts
  • Location:Fremont, CA
  • Region:San Francisco
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:88

Thank you Andrew. :thumbsup:

(I assume there's a few more coming)

This week is primarily dedicated to Spec Miata: Why buy and race one; the differences between the different generation Spec Miatas; how to set up yours for the race track, and more. We turned to one of our factory drivers for this series of articles.
 
Mazda Factory Driver: Andrew Carbonell
http://mazdamotorspo...gId=-1&button=y

Spec Miata: Introduction
http://mazdamotorspo...gId=-1&button=y

Spec Miata: Why Race it?
http://mazdamotorspo...gId=-1&button=y

Spec Miata: Which Should You Race?
http://mazdamotorspo...gId=-1&button=y


2011 NASA Western Endurance Racing Championship E3 Champ
We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver Novel Approach - When a paragraph simply won't do... Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill Instigator - Made a topic or post that inspired other Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+

#2
Johnny D

Johnny D

    Veteran Member

  • Moderators
  • 6,121 posts
  • Location:Fremont, CA
  • Region:San Francisco
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:88

Spec Miata: Baseline Setup

http://mazdamotorspo...gId=-1&button=y

J~

Spec Miata: Baseline Setup

For those who have a Spec Miata, you’ll want to ensure you baseline setup is ready to go before heading to the track. If you’re working with a shop to prepare your car, you’ll still want to read through this guideline so you understand what they’re doing to it and what kind of minor adjustments you’ll want to make once you’re at the track. This is by no means a complete how-to guide, but it givesyou an overview of what you need to achieve before your Spec Miata is properly set up.

2. Set corner weight
3. Double-check ride height
4. Set cambers and caster
5. Check corner weight again
6. Check ride height again
7. Set alignment/toe

Tips before starting setup:

-Have the driver in the car, or use weights if you’re doing the setup yourself.
-Put enough gas in the tank to simulate how much you’ll have at the mid-point of a race. This gives you a broader setup window, as well as a more strategic setup for the mid-to–late part of the race.
-Try to use one setup pad for everything to ensure uniformity.
-Have tire pressures set to what they will be when hot, generally 36-38 psi, depending on your preference.
-Disconnect the sway bars before setup, and do not reconnect them until setup is complete. This will avoid putting any preload on them as a result of the adjustment process.

1: Ride Height:

You want to measure your ride height from the pinch weld to the floor. The pinch welds are in each of the four corners, about an inch from each wheel.
Your ideal baseline ride height will vary depending on which model you have, and whether you’re running stock top hats (what the shock sits on) or aftermarket Mazdaspeed “fat cat” top hats.

 
‘89-‘93 1.6 Miata: Set ride height to 5” all the way around with stock top hats, and 4 7/8” all the way around for fat cat top hats.
‘94-‘95 1.8 / ‘96-‘97 1.8 Miata: Set ride height to 5 1/8” all the way around for stock top hats, and 5” all the way around for fat cats.
‘99-‘00 1.8 Miata: Set ride height to 4 5/8” in the front and 4 ¾” in the rear.
‘01-‘05 1.8 VVT (variable valve timing) Miata: Set ride height to 4 ¾” in the front and 4 7/8” in the rear.


2: Corner Weights

Your next step is to dial in your cross weight. Because each tire will be sitting on an independent scale, you’ll be able to see how your car’s weight is distributed between the four tires. The scale software will tell you your cross weight, which adds the left rear and right front weights and presents it as a percentage of the total weight.

Your goal should be a cross weight of about 50.5% of the total weight of the car: this is a good starting point, then you’ll fine-tune the cross weight at the track. Changing the cross weight affects how the car turns, so you’ll want to make adjustments according to the characteristics of each track where you race.

Because you modify cross weight by adjusting the shocks, you’ll want to double-check your ride height after this step. You might need to do a little back-and-forth tuning to get just the right combination of height and corner weight percentage. Have patience!

3: Camber and Caster

For setting up your cambers, you want the front at -3 to -3.4, and the rear at -2.5 to -2.8. Aim for a 0.5 difference between the front and rear. (Spec Miata is now allowing the use of adjustable, offset camber bushings that let you fine-tune the camber even more.)

In addition to front and rear, camber will also vary from left to right. On a clockwise track, the left side should be on the higher side of the camber range, with the right side on the lower side. A track with an even split of left and right corners, like Daytona, will be even on both sides.

Max out your front caster when you’re doing your setup and alignment. And remember, camber can also affect the right height and corner weight, so you’ll need to check both after setting camber.

4: Sway Bars

Once you have the above points set, you’re ready to reconnect the sway bars. The reason you don’t want to do your setup with them connected is that you might inadvertently put pressure, or preload, on them. You should never have preload in the sway bars: they shouldn’t engage until you’re in the turn.

The front sway bar on the NA Miata has two holes. It is usually run on the full soft setting, which are the holes closest to the end. (The front sway bar on the 99 NB Miata has only one hole.)

The rear sway bar has three holes for all models. Most drivers opt to use the middle hole, but you can adjust to your preference. You can opt to go full stiff (hole furthest from the end) or full soft (hole closest to the end), or you can change up one of the two sides instead of both. This is another factor that you’ll change depending not just on the track, but also weather conditions.

5: Alignment

Baseline toe should be set to 1mm toe out on each side of the front, and 0 to 1mm toe in on the rear. You’ll wind up adjusting this according to your preference.

When you’re on the brakes and compressing the front, the wheels want to toe in, so by having them set for toe out you’ll get better response. Also, when you turn, having the wheel toed out gives you more contact area for a better turn-in. Keep in mind, though, that cars will be more responsive on the steering wheel with 1mm of toe out, but going over that number can make the car TOO responsive!

I run my wheels straight on the back, but some people like to toe in a little bit to keep the rear of the car more stable. Some drivers actually choose a little bit of toe out to help overcome understeer, so it really is about personal preference.

Now you’ve got your baseline setup and you’re ready to go to the track! This is a great starting point to give you a balanced, responsive car. Next time, we’ll talk about how to improve on this setup to personalize it to your driving style, the track you’re at and even weather conditions.


2011 NASA Western Endurance Racing Championship E3 Champ
We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver Novel Approach - When a paragraph simply won't do... Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill Instigator - Made a topic or post that inspired other Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+

#3
Johnny D

Johnny D

    Veteran Member

  • Moderators
  • 6,121 posts
  • Location:Fremont, CA
  • Region:San Francisco
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:88

Spec Miata: Fine Tuning at the Track

http://mazdamotorspo...gId=-1&button=y

my first goal is always to find a balanced platform. You want to ensure the car is working equally in all parts of the corner. To achieve this balance, I start with ride height and corner weight adjustments in mind.

Ask yourself two questions: Is the car turning equally left and right? Is it predictable into and out of the corners? It should be pretty close if you’ve done your baseline setup properly. Keep in mind, not all tracks are the same, nor are the track conditions. For this reason, we spend the first few on track sessions fine tuning our set-up to both the track and the track conditions.

I like to begin by achieving a left-right balance. For example, sometimes you will have a car that seems to be loose because it oversteers in a few corners. This can lead you to believe the car is loose across the board. Before you make changes or tell the crew, “The car is loose,” make sure it is happening when you turn in both directions, not just one. It is important to determine whether your car is indeed loose or maybe the cross weight is just a little off, therefore handling poorly in a certain direction. Same goes for the car understeering in certain directions.

If the car is turning better in one direction, we want to make a cross weight change. I try to keep it simple and adjust either of the rear corners accordingly. You always want to make one change at a time to keep testing and tuning consistent, allowing you to determine exactly which change solved the handling issue. Raising the left rear of the car or dropping the right rear can correct an understeer in right-hand corners and/or an oversteer in left-hand corners. If you have an understeer in left-hand corners and/or an oversteer in right-hand corners, do the opposite and raise the right rear or drop the left rear.

My usual adjustment is a half turn to an entire turn up or down on the spring perch. You don't want to go beyond two to three turns in any direction on either side as you may begin to cause the sway bar to bind. If you can’t find the balance with a couple of turns, you will have to go back to the scales and adjust your crossweight accordingly by adjusting all four corners.

Once the car is turning equally left and right, I begin to evaluate how the chassis behaves on the way into and out of the corner. If the car is loose (oversteering) on the way into the corner (corner entry), you’ll want to lower the rear ride height on both sides. Usually one or two turns down on the spring perch will get you there. This will help stabilize the chassis on corner entry and through the rest of the corner, as well. On the opposite side, if you are having problems getting down to the apex at turn in because the car is understeering, you might want to raise the rear of the car on both sides. This change will make the chassis more prone to oversteer, especially when on the brakes at turn-in.

Once you have a nearly-perfect platform, it’s time to do some more fine-tuning to make the car just right for the particular track and conditions. Remember, in a Spec Miata, your sway bars, ride height and tire pressures are your primary tools for those minute adjustments.

When you’re thinking of what’s working on your suspension in a corner, consider the entry, middle and exit. What’s working on the entry and exit is your shocks and springs, and the sway bars are at work in the middle of the corner, once the car is maintaining its static load. So when you evaluate your car’s performance, consider where in the corner your car needs improvement, and what pieces need to be adjusted accordingly.

On most Spec Miatas, the only sway bar to adjust is the rear one which has three holes/settings per side. The NA (first generation Miata) Spec Miata is the only one that runs with an adjustable front sway bar, which is usually set to full soft (hole closest to the end). There are two holes/settings on each side of this bar. If you feel the need to take away front grip, you have the option of changing this to the full stiff setting (hole furthest from the end). When it comes to the rear sway bar, if the car cannot maintain its “set” and is loose in the middle of the corner, you want to soften the sway bar. To do this, work your way towards the holes closest to the end of the sway bar, one setting at a time. On the other hand, if the car is tight/understeers when it loads in the middle of the corner, you want to stiffen the rear sway bar by working towards the holes furthest from the end of the sway bar. If you want to get real technical with it, you can find a middle ground in the settings by moving just one side at a time. Ex. Right side setting of the sway bar on full stiff (hole furthest from the end) and left side setting on the middle hole. I consider this a “half change” and think of it as being half a setting softer than “full stiff”.

When it comes to your shocks in Spec Miata, the spring rate is fixed and non-adjustable, but you can use tire pressure to get the feel of different spring rates. Less tire pressure equals less spring rate (softer - more grip), and more tire pressure equals more spring rate (stiffer - less grip). If adjustments for how your Spec Miata handles into or out of the corner are still needed, then you can make them with tire pressure, but only after you’ve finished your sway bar and ride height adjustments.

Remember, make only small changes to your tire pressure – just half a pound or a pound at a time. When your setup is close to perfect, you want to make only slight changes and only one change at a time.

Everything up to this point is a change you can make on pit lane. But maybe you hit a curb, ran off track, or even had something happen during transport. That means you want to reevaluate the alignment.

Camber and caster will be something you adjust a bit depending on the track characteristics; expect to adjust those from track to track as mentioned in our previous article.

For a typical Spec Miata driver, you will make most of your changes when you first arrive at the track. Within the first couple of practice sessions, you should be pretty set for your weekend. Keep in mind, though, that when you return to that track in the future, you may be making small adjustments based on that day’s track conditions.

Get the car to a level that’s comfortable for you, then go out and drive it! It’s easy to start over-thinking these things and wind up wasting time making adjustments that don’t really need to be made. If the car is performing predictably, then you can get on track. These tips are meant to help you, not take control of your weekend!

 


2011 NASA Western Endurance Racing Championship E3 Champ
We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver Novel Approach - When a paragraph simply won't do... Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill Instigator - Made a topic or post that inspired other Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+

#4
Johnny D

Johnny D

    Veteran Member

  • Moderators
  • 6,121 posts
  • Location:Fremont, CA
  • Region:San Francisco
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:88

Stay Mentally Sharp

http://mazdamotorspo...10001&langId=-1

It's easy to get out of racing mode in the off season. Finding ways to keep your brain engaged will have you ready when your next race rolls around.

The rest of the world may argue about whether race car drivers are athletes, but if you're reading this, the question is probably settled, You're well aware of the physical aspects of driving a race car for lap, much less 15 laps or a couple of hours during your third stint in the wee hours of the morning.

As physical as racing is, though, it's certainly a mental game as well. While techniques for keeping physically fit over the off-season are fairly well known and perhaps even obvious, exercises for keeping mentally sharp aren't as readily apparent. There are methods to keep the brain in competition mode in the winter months until the next time you pull the belts tight.

“The simulator is a great way to practice and stay sharp,” says Mazda SKYACTIV Prototype driver Tom Long. “Beyond that, anything that has to do with reaction times - reaction time games, keeping your senses sharp, things like that.”

One of the things that may help is to find ways to occasionally get into competition mode. Simulators are one way, but there are others.

“There's something to be said for being in the ‘zone’” says Freedom Autosport driver Andrew Carbonell, who finished second in the Continental Tire SportsCar Challenge Street Tuner class in 2015. “It's very easy to spend enough time away from the track, to where physically you might still be in shape because you're exercising and you've been doing your routine, but you haven't dealt with competition. You haven't dealt with the stress of a race weekend. You haven't dealt with making all these decisions and trying to figure out the best solution. When you start to add all that into a race weekend and you haven't felt that in a while, it may kind of all pile up on you and affect you mentally. You kind of fall out of that routine when you're just worried about your physical fitness.

“So it's very important to do whatever you can to stay in a competitive mindset,” he continues. “If you're a cyclist, maybe do some cycle races in the off season. Anything to kind of keep that competition factor alive in your mind. Being physically fit is important, but being mentally fit is just as important. It's very easy as we spend time away from the track to lose that edge, that fight, that drive you have inside you.”

For Continental Tire SportsCar Challenge Street Tuner champion Stevan McAleer (with co-driver Chad McCumbee), his kart team provides an opportunity to stay sharp when he's out of the CJ Wilson Racing MX-5.

“I try to get out in the karts as much as I can, and if I feel the event's going well, I can jump into the final at the back – to have fun with the group, but also to keep me up to date,” he says. “Being able to get up to pace very quickly is important. In Continental, Chad is running around out there, the track is dry and all of a sudden it rains. Watkins Glen [this year] is a good example of that. That entire weekend, no one had any practice in the rain. Talk about being thrown in the deep end. I feel like that's a strong point in my skills, is I can adapt to conditions very quickly, or I can adapt to a race car or kart. So I try to jump in as much as I can, start in the back, have fun and try to get past people.”

It's not all active, though. There are some more passive ways to get your head into your racing game.

“If you have the opportunity to view some of your racing footage from the previous year, think back about some of the things, keep your brain actively thinking about what was going on,” says Long. “If you have the opportunity to replay some stuff, you can jot some notes about what you want to work on. File those away in your head so when you're sweating away in the gym, you can be focusing on those things and spend your time subconsciously analyzing so you're more prepared for next season.”


2011 NASA Western Endurance Racing Championship E3 Champ
We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver Novel Approach - When a paragraph simply won't do... Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill Instigator - Made a topic or post that inspired other Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users