28 replies to this topic

[Steve Scheifler]

Why replace a hub before you can detect some play in it? Repack maybe (good arguments both ways), but I have not seen or heard of the bearings failing without any warning. Jury still out on the actual hub failures, most people have never broken one. Long studs and/or installation of them may or may not be a significant factor.

Ball joints are another story and I'm interested in what others have found as well. If we raced a lot at tracks with aggressive burms like Road America I might replace as often as 24 hours but we've put a lot more than that on some without any failures.

[steveracer]

Double-check your quick-release (QR) on your steering column too.

My first year racing I managed to have my welded-on QR sheer off the column due to a front-end angled impact.

 

That wasn't a fun ride.

Steering shafts are hardened. Welding on them makes it brittle. I wouldn't do any more than a small tack weld.

A better idea ia locktite and 2 set screws at 90*. That way if one comes loose the other is still tight. Set screws 180* apart is bad, they're basically pushing against each other, if 1 comes loose, both are loose

[Tom Hampton]

Steering shafts are hardened. Welding on them makes it brittle. I wouldn't do any more than a small tack weld.
A better idea ia locktite and 2 set screws at 90*. That way if one comes loose the other is still tight. Set screws 180* apart is bad, they're basically pushing against each other, if 1 comes loose, both are loose

More than one driver has learned that the hard way. When I first started thinking about this crazy sport, one of the first videos I watched were of a welded steering shaft sheering in the driver's hands at speed.

[Bench Racer]

Steven, agree 100% with welding steering shaft, was going to comment but didn't  want to start a word war. At the get-go I had a Q.R. from a Spec Miata sales shop, IIRC screwed on the steering shaft and locked with set screws, bad idea, it came loose. I then procured a Q.R. hub from Advanced Auto Sports, fit on splines and locked with OEM steering shaft nut. After a learning experience, things are so much simpler.   

[davew]

Steven, agree 100% with welding steering shaft, was going to comment but didn't  want to start a word war. At the get-go I had a Q.R. from a Spec Miata sales shop, IIRC screwed on the steering shaft and locked with set screws, bad idea, it came loose. I then procured a Q.R. hub from Advanced Auto Sports, fit on splines and locked with OEM steering shaft nut. After a learning experience, things are so much simpler.   

 

This why I have never used a weld to shaft quick release. Even the set screw style have come loose. I have seen at least a dozen come loose over the years.

 

I have also seen some of the bolt on hubs (which is what I use) strip out following impact. I now carry a spare with me to the track.

[Jim Drago]

This why I have never used a weld to shaft quick release. 

There are too many quality bolt on options that never fail to weld on any longer IMO. I havent welded any on in atleast 5-6 years

Jim 

[wreckerboy]

Why replace a hub before you can detect some play in it? Repack maybe (good arguments both ways), but I have not seen or heard of the bearings failing without any warning. Jury still out on the actual hub failures, most people have never broken one.

Preventive maintenance. I'm big on it because I hate working on the car at the track.

I replace my front hubs at the beginning of every season (thus typically after eight to ten race weekends). I'd rather do them in the relative comfort of my shop than at the track. I repack the old ones and carry them as spares. I've never needed to replace a front hub at the track. I check them for play after every session as part of my routine between rounds inspections.

[Tom Hampton]

Preventive maintenance. I'm big on it because I hate working on the car at the track.

I replace my front hubs at the beginning of every season (thus typically after eight to ten race weekends). I'd rather do them in the relative comfort of my shop than at the track. I repack the old ones and carry them as spares. I've never needed to replace a front hub at the track. I check them for play after every session as part of my routine between rounds inspections.

Different strokes...

This makes perfect sense for the rears, to me. They aren't quite so "easy" to replace. Better to have a whole rear upright for trackside repair.

But, the fronts are so easy to replace---it doesn't seem worth the "pre-effort". Like you, I check for play post-session. If there's too much play, then its literally 5 minutes to R&R. And most of that time is getting the dust cap off.

[FTodaro]

I have about 8 or 10 hubs that i have repacked. I swap them out any time i race in the rain or after 3 or 4 weekends, swap them and then repack them when i have time. Rarely have a hub failure at the track anymore.