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Revised set up guide

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#41
MPR22

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Obviously I'd love to see a complete guide for the new guys and just asking those questions that should be included in the info!

 

 

 

Daytona? Indy?......44psi??  :shocking:  :)

To be honest I don't know that is what anyone was running at Daytona, IIRC Hoosier was telling the paddock to run them in that range but I know we didn't and Chris ran just fine at our normal ranges.  That said we are no means the Daytona gurus.   If you want MSR Houston starting pressures, I am your man.  


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#42
Jim Drago

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Obviously I'd love to see a complete guide for the new guys and just asking those questions that should be included in the info!

 

 

 

Daytona? Indy?......44psi??  :shocking:  :)

I think those 44 psi numbers are follish if you ever have to turn ;)

take a look at Indy track map.. we are not racing the oval .. the road course ;) 


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#43
Ron Alan

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All in fun and huhhh? :)


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#44
Jim Drago

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All in fun and huhhh? :)

people keep equating Indy to fast and long straights... Look at the track map


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#45
Todd Lamb

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no no no Jim - you need to tell everyone to setup for the straights at Indy.


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#46
Jim Drago

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people keep equating Indy to fast and long straights... Look at the track map

not sure what I was thinking 44 psi at indy should be fine :)


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#47
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I use Frank's finger :)

yes willing to lend it out too.

 

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#48
steveracer

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#49
av8tor

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John Davison told me that the only way to win was to run 44psi at 160F in all four when you come off the track.


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#50
Ron Alan

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people keep equating Indy to fast and long straights... Look at the track map

Yep...just assumed...my bad even though my original point was a lost leader   :nerd:

 

Or is it loss Walter? :)


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#51
Parity

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What's Drago been doing for the last four days? I'm waiting on this. :bigsquaregrin:


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#52
callumhay

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I agree with what Chris posted.

 

I make no changes based solely on year of car. .... You must keep the car off the bump stops....

 

 

Dave

I know that this is probably a stupid question, but I only have a few so they will run out at some point.

 

How does a driver know if they are hitting the bump stops?  and is there a difference in feel when you hit a bump stop compared to a shock that needs replacing or re valving? And is a one time hit of the bump stop a bad thing?

 

Thank you to anyone who has the patience to answer.

 

And BTW +1 on a revision of the set up guide. It was very valuable to me as a complete noob in at least getting to something that was workable. 

 

Cal



#53
Jim Drago

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Cal

Unfortuantely it is mostly experience.. if you have felt it, you know what it is pretty quickly. If you are transitioning niceley and then just a good jolt or bounce back you have fully compressed teh stop. We are "on" the stops all the time.. You can toucjh and compress, you just dont want to bottom them out under load. At that point you basically are running a 2x4 in place of shock and spring


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#54
callumhay

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Thanks, Jim, that really helps. So much to learn but keeps it interesting!

#55
NRE

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I am not going to read it, I am going pull a Nuffer and park next to you and have you do the setup at the track for me LOL :banana:


I'd park next to you for advice Kyle, but I want to win😂. But I really appreciate all the help and advice Jim and the east street crew give us.
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#56
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Adding to the FatCat bump stop discussion. With the Spec Miata FatCat bump stop the first 3/4 inch of compression of the bump stop basically increases the spring rate by 25 pounds per 1/4 inch or additively spring rate is increased by 75 pounds per 3/4 inch. After the first 3/4 inch of compression per say the spring rate increases in a very short travel distance to infinity. Don't compress more than 3/4 inch..............

 

A few years ago I was doing a learning session where my bump stop clearance was less than desired and in a right hand corner, the rear of the car stepped out/loose/over steered so fast I couldn't counter steer. I increased the bump stop clearance by two turns of the spring perch (a total of 1/4 inch) and life was good. I presume when one hits the front bump stop the car will push/understeer.   


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#57
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What's Drago been doing for the last four days? I'm waiting on this. :bigsquaregrin:

I have found if you get out your credit card he seams to move faster.


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#58
dc2696

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I know that this is probably a stupid question, but I only have a few so they will run out at some point.

 

How does a driver know if they are hitting the bump stops?  and is there a difference in feel when you hit a bump stop compared to a shock that needs replacing or re valving? And is a one time hit of the bump stop a bad thing?

 

Thank you to anyone who has the patience to answer.

 

And BTW +1 on a revision of the set up guide. It was very valuable to me as a complete noob in at least getting to something that was workable. 

 

Cal

Lower your car to 4" and go and do a lapping day. You'll see what bumpstops feel like


- the faster you go

- the longer you live

 

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#59
Tom Sager

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Adding to the FatCat bump stop discussion. With the Spec Miata FatCat bump stop the first 3/4 inch of compression of the bump stop basically increases the spring rate by 25 pounds per 1/4 inch or additively spring rate is increased by 75 pounds per 3/4 inch. After the first 3/4 inch of compression per say the spring rate increases in a very short travel distance to infinity. Don't compress more than 3/4 inch..............

 

A few years ago I was doing a learning session where my bump stop clearance was less than desired and in a right hand corner, the rear of the car stepped out/loose/over steered so fast I couldn't counter steer. I increased the bump stop clearance by two turns of the spring perch (a total of 1/4 inch) and life was good. I presume when one hits the front bump stop the car will push/understeer.   

 

I put a bumpstop on a shock dyno a few years back.  I recall the spring rate going through the roof before 3/4" of compression.  Less than a 1/2" IIRC.  Either way It's much harder to detect a too low in the front condition than in the rear as a little understeer doesn't cause you to drive in a circle. 


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#60
Ron Alan

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At least one thing about being too low on the front of our cars...before you reach that infinity/2x4 you will get a braking sensation when the tire slams into the wheel well :(

 

Please don't take my word for it but for all those new guys who worry about shocks going bad or re valving...look at it like this--

 

I've been told our shocks are basically a high end street shock...designed for 100,000 miles of pot holes and crappy roads. We drive on track at an average higher speed but generally pretty smooth...albeit the occasional curb hop! Your shocks get more use on your tow usually than your track time! How much time(miles)per year are you really putting on them? If they aren't leaking I wouldn't worry to much...just my  :twocents: which you need to adjust for inflation!


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Ron

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