8 replies to this topic

[Richard Astacio]

Hi Guys, 

 

 I was wondering if anyone knows the sequence of operation of the charging system, I found a few wiring diagram online and they all seem to be different. 

I have a racing budy who is having issues with his alternator (1999). The car died when it was on the track and the battery light came on. We charged the battery and it holds the charge however the alternator is not charging. He purchased a new alternator and he installed it and it is still doing the same thing (not charging) he actually tired (2) new alternators.

 

  I went over today and I toned out the low voltage (small plug) and located a break in the wire. After repairing the wire near the alternator I was able to tone back the (2) wires and they both go back to the ecu. We are not getting any voltage out of the plugs. What is the sequence of that plug??

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

[Rick201]

My experience with this type of issue has taught me to buy a Mazda OEM alternator either new (~$400) or better yet used (<$50). I have had brand new autostore alternators fail in a very short time resulting in nothing good! Good luck.

[BNaumann]

http://mazdaracers.c...ues/#entry89029

[Richard Astacio]

http://mazdaracers.c...ues/#entry89029

 

Thanks, whats the function of the other wire then?

[BNaumann]

Some kind of feedback to the ECU.

[Tom Sager]

I can't comment on the small wire questions but I had a very similar experience last year and the culprit was corrosion on the positive wire from the battery at the alternator connector (which passes through kill switch).  Others have had kill switch connection issues or kill switch failures that have caused a no charging condition.

[Richard Astacio]

Yes thanks, I checked a few kill switch wiring diagram and it appears that one of the wires (smaller) from the alternator goes thru the kill switch. 

 

I was just wondering which signals actually turn on the voltage regulator which is inside the alternator. 

[RazerX]

I had a charging issue a year ago on my 99.  Burned out 3 alternators.  I found that the problem was both the battery and the kill switch.   The battery had a bad cell but 'appeared' to work properly as it held a surface charge.  But my understanding is that the battery acts a voltage conditioner smoothing out power, which was spiking and frying the alt electronics.  The kill switch also showed some signs of not have consistent contact and field Alt wire (little wire) passed through it, so it was collapsing and restarting the alt field.  I replaced the cut off switch first and the problem remained then I swapped the battery the problem was gone.  

[Richard Astacio]

We found the problem, loose butt connection in the small wire harness.