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#21
Danica Davison

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It depends on how it is used.. my car has two full seasons and 118 hrs on it. Still one of the strongest if not the strongest int the country. I will refresh the head before the runoffs.  I would see less over revvs, you should get  80-100 plus hrs

 

Mine is still running strong too *knock on wood*... and I have had it since November 2015, and it came with 2-3 races on it already.  I do my best not over rev it, and we take really good care of it.  I am not sure how many hours is on it, but in 2016 I did every single CFR race, plus a lot of test days, which is like once a month and did enduros and double dipping ... so I'm sure I am getting close to that 100 number as well.


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#22
CruzanTom

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Mine is still running strong too *knock on wood*... and I have had it since November 2015, and it came with 2-3 races on it already.  I do my best not over rev it (but I roll it over a few times), and we take really good care of it.  I am not sure how many hours is on it, but in 2016 I did every single CFR race, plus a lot of test days, which is like once a month and did enduros and double dipping ... so I'm sure I am getting close to that 100 number as well.

 

Fixed that for you!


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#23
Danica Davison

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Fixed that for you!

 

I was just jealous at how good you are at stacking shit up, and I try to be the best at everything ... so I wanted to outdo the master :)


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#24
ajcjr

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Curious what a majors/supertour competitive miata goes for and what type of maintenance do you need from race to race? I ran SRF3 for a few years and have been curious about this class and was wondering the buy in point. 



#25
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Curious what a majors/supertour competitive miata goes for and what type of maintenance do you need from race to race? I ran SRF3 for a few years and have been curious about this class and was wondering the buy in point. 

 

Car will cost you aprox 23-28k used for a truly super tour capable winning car.  break pads last multipe weekend, tires obviousy ever weekend expense, rotors last about a season, calipers last multipe seasons, front hubs need serviced often, rear hubs I replace new each season, trans is driver dependant I change fluid every 4th weekend in trans, and diff.  I change oil every two weekend in the engine.  Car needs alligned for every weekend, full nut and bolt check, check for subframe crack  etc. 

 

the thing that i have seen happen alot over the last couple years is alot of cars are having to change out wire harneses as they seem to be going bad at a faster rate then when i began in 2009, I think maybe they are just getting older and more fragile but not really sure. 


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#26
Bench Racer

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the thing that i have seen happen alot over the last couple years is alot of cars are having to change out wire harneses as they seem to be going bad at a faster rate then when i began in 2009, I think maybe they are just getting older and more fragile but not really sure. 

Interesting  :offtopic: for this thread. We hear of the NB plus harness being an issue and hear very little about the NA harness being an issue. In simple terms, is this because the NB harness is not of the same quality as the NA? And or are there some year NB harness that do not fail?  


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#27
Caveman-kwebb99

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Interesting   :offtopic: for this thread. We hear of the NB plus harness being an issue and hear very little about the NA harness being an issue. In simple terms, is this because the NB harness is not of the same quality as the NA? And or are there some year NB harness that do not fail?  

 

I lost a qualifying session at the june sprints to a harness in my 99, and have gone through at least one other engine harness swap, seems to me the car with the most harness issues are the 01+ know of lots of them personally and some have had repeated problems, not sure what it is about the vvt???

 

as for the 1.6 its hard to fail wire harnesses when the car sits in a garage and gets started a couple times a year, and then when they are driven many here have said over the years, that whoever is pilotiing them is not a good enough driver to get them to the front   :buried: so maybe they just arent being driven hard enough, this may be a problem over at nasa though as they drive harder over there...  :bomb:  :devil:  :bomb:


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#28
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as for the 1.6 its hard to fail wire harnesses when the car sits in a garage and gets started a couple times a year, and then when they are driven many here have said over the years, that whoever is pilotiing them is not a good enough driver to get them to the front   :buried: so maybe they just arent being driven hard enough, this may be a problem over at nasa though as they drive harder over there...  :bomb:  :devil:  :bomb:

Always your conclusion has an offbeat tone. The one time the car had a driver, it did it's thing proper within  Midwestern Council race group from DFL to third of group to two ITS cars. One SM driver after the race questioned where did I find all the speed and I asked the driver, what color the drivers helmet was, the driver said yellow, someone else was driving your car. :bigsquaregrin:


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#29
Jamz14

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so maybe they just arent being driven hard enough, this may be a problem over at nasa though as they drive harder over there...  :bomb:  :devil:  :bomb:


We do drive harder. Hence the 3/4 car width room rule. You have to want it at NASA.
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#30
Greg Holmberg

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Car will cost you aprox 23-28k used for a truly super tour capable winning car.  break pads last multipe weekend, tires obviousy ever weekend expense, rotors last about a season, calipers last multipe seasons, front hubs need serviced often, rear hubs I replace new each season, trans is driver dependant I change fluid every 4th weekend in trans, and diff.  I change oil every two weekend in the engine.  Car needs alligned for every weekend, full nut and bolt check, check for subframe crack  etc. 

 

And for how many hours will that super-tour-win-capable engine continue to be super-tour-win-capable?

 

And then, when you send the engine back to the builder to return it to being super-tour-win-capable, how much does he charge you?



#31
Caveman-kwebb99

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And for how many hours will that super-tour-win-capable engine continue to be super-tour-win-capable?

 

And then, when you send the engine back to the builder to return it to being super-tour-win-capable, how much does he charge you?

 

I do not have an hour meter on my car, but normally I get two seasons out of my engine before refreshing, now that I am barely racing I may get 4 years who knows.  

 

My engine builder has loaned me his personal car after I dropped a cylinder due to tuliped valved, he then fixed the issue at zero charge even thought the head had 3 weekends on it.  knock on wood I have not over-reved a motor past 7500rpms in my career, so maybe that is why they last so long for me.  I usually do a leakdown after 1 year on the motor, last motor I had that went 2 years I leaked it down after 1 full season and that was with test days and double dipping in stl my leakdown was 1% in all 4 cylinders.  at the end of the second season just before runoffs that engine developed a rod knock I sent it back and had it redone, it is in the car today as is an absolute beast, some cars have a very hard time pushing me at road america, and i can stay almost right on the bumper of a two car train which is almost unheard of.

 

I have had total rebuilds done to the engine I believe it cost me $4000 and the engine was stronger after refresh then it was new, with same head and same bottom

end.

 

Engine cost me $6500 new. 


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#32
Caveman-kwebb99

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Always your conclusion has an offbeat tone. The one time the car had a driver, it did it's thing proper within  Midwestern Council race group from DFL to third of group to two ITS cars. One SM driver after the race questioned where did I find all the speed and I asked the driver, what color the drivers helmet was, the driver said yellow, someone else was driving your car. :bigsquaregrin:

 

 

the off beat tone of humor maybe lol...  I just joined the 1.6 owners club yesterday :)  hopefully joining the club wont me as slow as you  :rotfl:


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#33
Bench Racer

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the off beat tone of humor maybe lol...  I just joined the 1.6 owners club yesterday :)  hopefully joining the club wont me as slow as you  :rotfl:

Hey, when you roll the clock to 3/4 century, I hope your still breathing say nothing about racing, a car. :bigsquaregrin:

I'm willing to bet I started seriously racing Karts when I was older than you are today. ;) 


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#34
Tom Sager

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Hey, when you roll the clock to 3/4 century, I hope your still breathing say nothing about racing, a car. :bigsquaregrin:

I'm willing to bet I started seriously racing Karts when I was older than you are today. ;)

I will bet on Kyle living way past 75 on curmudgeonly will if nothing else :toast: .  It's also good to see you Dave doing so well health-wise and still hanging around the racing game too. 


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#35
Greg Holmberg

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I do not have an hour meter on my car, but normally I get two seasons out of my engine before refreshing, now that I am barely racing I may get 4 years who knows.  

 

How many weekends is a full season for you?

 

How many on-track sessions (practice, qualifying, race) in a weekend?

 

How long is a session?

 

For example, I used 8 weekends per year, 8 sessions per weekend, and 25 minutes per session.  So a year would be 8 * 8 * 25 = 1600 minutes = 26.7 hours.



#36
Walter Vetter

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#37
Johnny D

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Sound like Greg will have a Taxi cab meter on his. :)

 

Zing it once, down shift wrong, factor in Shit happens....

 

Also too super-tour-win-capable teams have multiple engines as spares along with trannys etc. Crew too.

 

The car doesn't make you a winner either, you have to be a super-tour-win-capable driver and then you're just battling with the countries top best 30 or so.

 

Watch the Runoffs. lots will have the car, only one will win.

 

:twocents:

 

J~


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#38
Caveman-kwebb99

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How many weekends is a full season for you?

How many on-track sessions (practice, qualifying, race) in a weekend?

How long is a session?

For example, I used 8 weekends per year, 8 sessions per weekend, and 25 minutes per session. So a year would be 8 * 8 * 25 = 1600 minutes = 26.7 hours.


I used to run anywhere from 9-12 weekends with alot if double dipping in STL before so.many full built STL cars started showing up. I would always do test day every weekend, as well as do at least one track day 3 day weekend for testing purposes

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#39
Danica Davison

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I have had total rebuilds done to the engine I believe it cost me $4000 and the engine was stronger after refresh then it was new, with same head and same bottom
end.

 

That is because Jimbo didn't come up with the formula for the Magic Glaze yet! :D


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#40
Alberto

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Is 12 HC really a realistic "competitive" lifespan for our SM7's?   I'm just mid-pack, but I understand the guys up front are buying a set per weekend (4-6 HC's - 8 if they are using the on a test day?  -- and in the extreme case a set per race (2 sets a weekend for a double race).    I notice a significant drop in stick in the 11-12 HC range, but I don't think those that are running up front are waiting that long.

 

Most of the guys I used to paddock with in SCCA have abandoned the club and are racing on Toyos with NASA (and the reason they give me is that it's due to tire cost).

 

Is it unreasonable to ask Hoosier to make a tire with the competitive longevity of the Toyo?  We're in a spec class -- who cares if it slows us down a bit?  We're all running the same tires...

 

Fwiw, our region (SFR) created a regional class SMT that specs the Toyo RR like in NASA.  It is the most popular class in our region followed by Sealed SM (SSM).  The Regional only drivers far outnumber the Nationals/Majors drivers so our region adjusted class rules to the region driver needs/wants.

 

This poll seems to mostly geared to the very very pointy end of the field of Nationals/Majors racers.  Costs are lower for a regional driver who is not interested in dealing with the unnecessary expenditures.  I bet we have more fun per $ spent than the guys spending the big bucks. :)


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