Jump to content

Photo

AFM Data Aq question

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1
jeremybarnes

jeremybarnes

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Region:Southern California
  • Car Year:1990
  • Car Number:14

I'm confused...

 

- I'd like to add air-fuel mixture data to my AIM EVO4 data aq system, when I finally add the adjustable FPR, so...

- I've decided I'm going to purchase the 5X adjustable FPR

- Do I need to add the AEM gauge and wideband kit they sell to my purchase?

- is it possible to just put an O2 sensor in the downpipe and (somehow) plug it into the AIM, so I don't need the AEM "middle man"?

 

and lastly...

- based on the answers to the above questions, can someone shoot me the way to set up the O2 sensor or the AEM gauge into the AIM system?

 

Lots of questions, thanks to anyone who can help me out here...

Jeremy



#2
chris haldeman

chris haldeman

    Veteran Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 777 posts
  • Location:Mckinney
  • Region:texas
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:73
Easy button is the aim lc1 wide band. Pricy but is plug and play with the evo 4s
X-factorracing.com
3 podium finishes
2 2013 NASA nats
1 2013 Scca runoffs
Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver BFG Supertour Winner - Circuit of the Americas Winner - Majors Winner - Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+ We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations!

#3
jeremybarnes

jeremybarnes

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Region:Southern California
  • Car Year:1990
  • Car Number:14

Thanks Chris.

 

So the LCU-One is $389 at its cheapest, and $399 at 99% of the vendors. To that I need to add the 5X FPR with a gauge, and that's $171.  So I'm in for $600 with tax and shipping for the whole thing.  Right?

 

Is there really no cheaper way to do it?  The full kit from 5X -- FPR, gauge and AEM gauge (which apparently has the 0-5v output needed to connect to the AIM) is $350.   While I want do do this right, I'd rather not spend $600 if I can do the same for $350.  That said, if I NEED to the LCU-One kit, so be it.

 

Any other thoughts?



#4
Steve Scheifler

Steve Scheifler

    member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,742 posts
  • Location:St. Louis
To your earlier question, no you cannot buy just a wideband sensor or sensor and gauge. Unlike most temperature and pressure sensors, a wideband requires dedicated hardware and logic to control it and produce the analog voltage output. But there is nothing special about the AIM unit so don’t feel you need to overpay for theirs. At best they were very late to the game and if they’re smart just repackaged one from a more experienced company.

If you really want to save a few bucks, look at the Zeitronix Zt-3 + ZR-3 combo $209 (controller gauge and sensor), or with a nicer low-profile gauge the Zt-3 + ZR-1 combo $239, directly from them.
Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#5
davew

davew

    Veteran Member

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,293 posts
  • Location:Beloit, Wi
  • Region:Chicago
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:72

Sometimes less cash outlay equals less favorable performance. Do it right with the AIM sensor kit, expensive, yes, but it does work well.

 

Note, I sell fuel regs, the AEM gauge and the AIM system. So I am unbiased at least in the "I want your money" aspect


  • RWP80000 likes this

Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0

Building Championship winning cars since 1995

4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017

Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017

5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's

6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder

2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder

2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)

2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)

2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief

2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)

Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230

Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Sponsor / Advertiser - Site sponsor / advertiser... support these guys! Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#6
Tom Hampton

Tom Hampton

    Egregious Member

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,789 posts
  • Location:Mckinney, tx
  • Region:South west
  • Car Year:1992
  • Car Number:41

Sometimes less cash outlay equals less favorable performance.


And sometimes more money is just more money.  There's plenty of evidence that the AEM / UEGO system is a quality system, its not some fly-by-night also-ran.  Personally, I have plenty of side-by-side data comparisons between my AEM and dyno AFR to show that the AEM is accurate.  The ultimate long term accuracy is driven by the sensor, its placement and orientation, and how long you wait between replacing it. 
 
To the OP. 

 

As Chris said, the easy button will be the AIM LC1, because you just install and connect it up.  If you aren't put off by a little DIY, then....

 

The AEM gage has a 0-5V output.  It comes with a long harness, and a signal/reference pair of wires for the 0-5V output.  The output is setup to output AFR on the analog output. 

 

0.5 Vdc =   8.5:1 AFR

4.5Vdc  =  18.0:1 AFR
 
I don't have an AIM Daq system, mine is a Racepak.  But, the idea will be the same.  I have several analog inputs in my Daq.  So, I wire the white/brown pair to an open analog input, and then program my Daq system according to the data above.  I think I ultimately made a couple tweaks to the transfer function to account for offset/gain errors in my Daq that caused logged data to be slightly different from the gage readout. 

 

As I said above, I've had numerous occasions to compare the AEM gage output to a secondary Wideband (on the Dyno) over the years.  They have always agreed within about 0.2 AFR. 

 

However, it is necessary to replace the O2 sensor, periodically (every 1-2 years).

 

Finally, note that I have a 1.6L.  I don't know that's particularly relevant in this conversation, though. 

 

I should also note, that I'm an computer and electrical engineer with 25 years of experience designing analog circuits, and data acquisition systems for industrial, military, and avionic applications. So, I might not be the average Joe.  That said, what I described above isn't rocket-surgery.  If you aren't color blind and can read a PDF, maybe can solder or use a crimping tool....it should be straightforward. 


-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info

video: vimeo.com/tomhampton

Support: X-Factor Racing

 

I didn't lose, I just got outspent!

Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#7
Mark

Mark

    Member

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPip
  • 207 posts
  • Location:Los Angeles
  • Region:Sopac
If you have an AiM data system the no brainer is the AiM LCU (wideband) using a CAN bus connection. Most current AiM data systems only have 4 (mx*) or 5 (evo4s) native analog connections and while the number of analog channels can be increased easily it comes at a price. If you have oil pressure, water temp, brake pressure, and fuel pressure that is four analog channels.

Mark

Mark
markn@ironcanyonmotorsports.com
Iron Canyon Motorsports

Make it Rain - Made Paypal donation of $100+ Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#8
davew

davew

    Veteran Member

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,293 posts
  • Location:Beloit, Wi
  • Region:Chicago
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:72

Since Tom baited me;

 

I sell the AEM, have had some instances of bad gauges. Thus my preference for the AIM system.

 

I prefer my regulator over the 5x version. But I should!

 

Because we run 30 weekends and average 10 cars per weekend, we have a larger chance to see failures. And this is what we see.

 

My opinion, based on my experience. YMMV

 

Dave


Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0

Building Championship winning cars since 1995

4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017

Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017

5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's

6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder

2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder

2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)

2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)

2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief

2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)

Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230

Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill - Survive the 25, NASA Thunderhill We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Sponsor / Advertiser - Site sponsor / advertiser... support these guys! Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#9
Tom Hampton

Tom Hampton

    Egregious Member

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,789 posts
  • Location:Mckinney, tx
  • Region:South west
  • Car Year:1992
  • Car Number:41

I have Dave's 1.6L regulator. 

 

I've had it for 4 years now?  I don't even remember, exactly---I know I bought it within a month of it being available for sale.  I remember checking weekly waiting for it to be available after you'd announced it. 

 

Its been rock solid.  It is absolutely set-it-and-forget it.  I log FP, as well as AFR.  FP vs. RPM simply doesn't change unless I move the screw.  I almost feel like I'm wasting an analog channel because its been so reliable. 

 

I can't comment on the 5x (or anything related to NA8 / 99 / VVT), because the AA (1.6L) is the only thing I've ever used. 


-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info

video: vimeo.com/tomhampton

Support: X-Factor Racing

 

I didn't lose, I just got outspent!

Beta-Tester - Assisted us with beta testing the website. Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#10
TrailBrake

TrailBrake

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 59 posts
  • Location:Manchester, NH

I would not go with the AEM gauge. Like previously said, the LCU1 is the easiest to add and works really well. It doesn't take up an analog input and has a nice feature set.

 

If you don't go with that, I recommend the Spartan from 14point7.com https://www.14point7...da-controller-2 It's the cheapest and I've found it be very accurate when running against other systems. It comes with the analog outputs and is easy to add to an AiM patch cable.


Matt Romanowski

www.TrailBrake.net


#11
jeremybarnes

jeremybarnes

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Region:Southern California
  • Car Year:1990
  • Car Number:14

Thanks everyone, really top-notch information -- as always.  Think I'm going with the LCU-One, as it's plug-and-play for my EVO4, and I know it'll just work. This was exactly what I was hoping to learn.

 

Jeremy.



#12
Richard Astacio

Richard Astacio

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 302 posts
  • Location:Stamford CT
  • Region:NER
  • Car Year:2003
  • Car Number:80

I also use the Aim LCU.... After each session i review, Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Engine Revs, Air/Fuel @ 4th gear between 5500 Rpm - 6200 Rpm, fuel pressure, voltage, etc. 

While I do glance at my gauge during the session but depending if you are racing or qualifying I doubt you are going to look at your data for a long time while on track. 


Richard Astacio

2003 Spec Miata VVT & 2013 Cup Car
 

We have a Winnah! - Won their 1st race... Congratulations! Donor - Made PayPal donation Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users