18 replies to this topic

[Charles Boehly]

Is the stock regulator a linear or a rising rate regulator? All of the aftermarket kits use either a Mallory, Aeromotive or variant linear regulator. One does a mod of the stock regulator. Curious if this is replacing apples for apples. BEGI and/or Cartech (same design) has a rising rate regulator that looks interesting. Seems more suited for turbo cars but they say it is appropriate for normally aspirated applications. Thoughts and comments? Not my area of expertise. Curious if anyone has thought of this. Does it matter? They cost quite a bit more than the linear type.

http://www.bellengin...8&products_id=2

Charlie Boehly

[Gunpilot]

I was wondering if anyone has tried this $70 unit on there 1.6:

My link

I, like most, am on a tight budget. The kit looks good and complete. With a goos dyno tunning, why would this unit be different from other offered at around $225?

[Alberto]

I'll be on the market for one of these later in the season once my budget allows so I'm curious where this thread goes.

I helped someone install one of the Advanced Autosports FPRs and was impressed with how complete and fool proof the kit was - http://www.advanced-...products_id=245

I wonder what the rules say about rising rate FPR ala Begi vs the Aeromotive.

A good link:
http://aeromotiveinc...-fuel-pressure/



On another topic, not sure I trust generic, no name ebay stuff for something as important as fuel delivery....

[davew]

I bought one of those ebay specials. It is still sitting around here someplace. I did not even bother to use as a test piece. Just looked scary.

Rising rate regulators are a waste of time on a SM. They "rise" based on manifold vacuum for part throttle. Actually raising the fuel pressure as the vacuum decrease (with throttle opening). We don't care about part throttle drivability/emissions, all we care about is WIDE OPEN THROTTLE!!!!!!

Dave

[Ron Alan]

I bought one of those ebay specials. It is still sitting around here someplace. I did not even bother to use as a test piece. Just looked scary.

Rising rate regulators are a waste of time on a SM. They "rise" based on manifold vacuum for part throttle. Actually raising the fuel pressure as the vacuum decrease (with throttle opening). We don't care about part throttle drivability/emissions, all we care about is WIDE OPEN THROTTLE!!!!!!

Dave

Spoken like a true salesman Bought Dave's and it couldn't be any easier or nicer...no brainer!!

[Greg Kimble]

I have yet to make the purchase for my car, but have done the research, I think you should purchase whatever you get from an established SM vendor who can support their product. The whole reason for installing the regulator is lean out the motor. If you go too lean then you will kill your motor. Everyone I spoke to highly recommended that the adjustable unit be installed and set using A/F ratio on a dyno. Just my opinion, but trying to save a few $ by and buying from some one not familiar with our application = big problems.

Greg

[Gunpilot]

A company here in Austin, TX sells a pretty complete kit, and I will most likely go with it. adjustable regulator here Bill quickly returned my calls and answered all my questions. You are right....the support and backing of a product is priceless!

I do know the adjustable fuel pressure regulator is useless unless you spend some time and monet on a dyno working it, timing, and mass air flow sensor all together.

[davew]

I could go into why I feel my unit is better than the one pictured in Autin Texas, but that is not what this is for.

On a 94-97 car you should go on the dyno to properly tune. All you have to play with is timing and fuel pressure. You will need a wideband on the dyno.

On a 1.6 car I have found a reciepe that works on 95% of the cars. Using the adjustable regulator, take about 4 pounds of pressure out of the car, purchase the Spinduction CURVED air filter and put an unmodified air flow meter on the car. Unmodified AFM's can be bought for about $75, or you can spend $125 per hour on the dyno trying to put yours back to stock. Put the car on the dyno and set timing to what the engine wants, generally 14-16 BTDC, sometimes 12-17 works best. Then adjust fuel pressure to get the air fuel ratio you want.

I have used this method on 50+ 1.6 Miatas and found only 2 that this was not the best set-up for torque and power. And both of them had 150k mile engines. I have found that the better the engine, the more gain in tuning.

For any year 1.8 car. Replace your washable air filter with a cheap paper filter. Typically 1-2 horsepower in the air filter. You must replace the filter regularly. Anytime you bang on the filter and dust comes out, you are looosing power. I tried KN and Green filters and found they actually cost you power. I dynoed: no filter, window screen and a fancy custom made foam filter. They all made the same power as a fresh Fram filter.

I have found no difference in plugs or wires. I use MSD wires because I like the way they fit. I use cheap NGK plugs and replace them often. Probably every 3 weekends.

I got a little off topic. Sorry! But that is most of what I know

Dave

[Gunpilot]

WOW! that was great info. I have a 1.6 and an unmodded AFM. I currently run a racing beat intake and almost pulled the trigger on a straight SPX intake. Interesting you say the SPX2 curved works better? Squeezing 1-2HP makes all the difference and it is good to hear from people that have stood by the dyno and seen the results (or lack of).

[FTodaro]

Dave I have your regulator installed on my 1999 do you ever use the vacuum hose set up on that regulator?

[davew]

On my 99 reg, that is not a vacuum port. It is only a air vent for the dry side of the diaghram. Hooking a vac line to it will do no good. Plugging it will effect the consistentcy of the regulator.

A small foam ear plug with a zip tye would make a really nice filter for the vent.

Dave

[Glenn]

One thing to remember when tuning: the A/F ratio is the TOTAL for all 4 cylinders. If you have NOT ensured that your injectors are properly flowing the SAME rate there is a VERY BIG possibility of burning a piston.

[Alberto]

So... What air:fuel ratio are you guys targetting with decreased fuel pressure?

[john mueller]

I got 5X's version for my NA, trick littl part !!!


Gotta remember, no matter what you spend on the 'part' it's going to take dyno time to get it working right and a A/F gauge (lamda) to keep it optimized each day. IMHO this is not a 'cheap' power mod but it's less than others.

[Adam Molaver]

dave - do you have any suggestions for a gauge that can be mounted to your regulator? it would be nice to be able to spot check it over the course of a weekend to make sure there is no drift as well as when tuning not have to have your dyno guy run around to find the right adapters for their gauge.

ahm

[dmathias]

Summit or Jegs both sell in-line FP gauges.

[GregA]

dave - do you have any suggestions for a gauge that can be mounted to your regulator? it would be nice to be able to spot check it over the course of a weekend to make sure there is no drift as well as when tuning not have to have your dyno guy run around to find the right adapters for their gauge.

ahm

Adam, could also go this route:

http://www.actron.co...l.php?pid=16174

It fits Dave's regulator and you don't have to worry about an additional part to leak. It's what I use.

[Adam Molaver]

cool - thanks! having one gauge to use also eliminates the variability between them. since we're adjusting in such fine increments, if one gauge reads 1psi high and another 1psi low, you could make an expensive mistake 'correcting' things at the track (if you can't get on a dyno). and i like the ~$40 part!

ahm

ps greg - you coming to VIR this weekend?

[GregA]

cool - thanks! having one gauge to use also eliminates the variability between them. since we're adjusting in such fine increments, if one gauge reads 1psi high and another 1psi low, you could make an expensive mistake 'correcting' things at the track (if you can't get on a dyno). and i like the ~$40 part!

ahm

ps greg - you coming to VIR this weekend?

No, can't make it. Wish I could. I'm doing the August NASA race and I'll try for the October race at VIR.