51 replies to this topic

[Tom Hampton]

I've purchased and received an ACT SM clutch, and intend to drop the tranny this weekend. If needed I'll pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced, otherwise I'll proceed as-is. I'm realy hoping the FW looks okay...I'd like to just complete the job as I have a lot going on in May. I have my FSM, an Enthuiast's, and a Chilton(or Haynes can't remember) for the basic procedure...plus I've done engine's, tranny's, and clutches on other V-8 vehicles...just not a miata. So, I think I'm good with the basic procedure.
However, I'm curious if there is anything else I should know (outside of the FSM/enthusiast's instructions) before diving in? Secrets, tips, tricks...that may make the job less !@#$@%$^#%^&#$%^ agravating....

I'm replacing the clutch line with braided SS while I'm down there...but, wasn't planning on anything else. I rerouted the battery wire to the cockpit when I did the kill switch (per the DaveW method)...so, I don't have to fiddle with that on the PPF.

PS: I'm already planning on pulling the engine at the end of the season...so I was going to save those other "do this while you are there" tasks for then. Unless, of course, someone tells me it would be "stupid" not to for one thing or another.

[davew]

Remove, reposition PPF, then when trans tilts back, remove the top bolts. The motor mounts are forward of the balance point of the engine. So once the trans is pulled the motor tilts forward. Making it very difficult to line everything up again. Place a short piece of 2x4 between the crank pulley and the steering rack to keep the trans tilted back during reinstall.

Dave

[Cy Peake]

I remove the downpipe because I feel that it makes it easier to get at all the bolts on that side of the trans, plus easier when pulling the trans off the engine. A long extension with a swivel socket works great for the two upper 17mm bellhousing bolts. The three starter bolts are always the part of the job that I loathe and you'll see why when you get to it. Some like to pull the coilpacks on the rear of the head to allow the motor to tilt alot on the motor mounts which makes it easier to get the trans back onto the engine. I use the wood block on a jack method that Dave mentioned...under the crank pulley. Use LOTS of light to see WTF you're doing under there.

[Keith Novak]

If the master cylinder or slave are aging, now would be a good time to replace them too. The slave especailly is prone to failures. When you change the clutch line, you're going to bleed the system, so bleed once now and have a fresh hydraulic system.

[Scottie]

dont forget to replace the rubber nipple that is on the back of the motor. It stops coolant from pissing everywhere. Order that part from Mazda, trust me on this.

The reason that rubber nipple is there is because this motor was turbo charged and used in the mx-3. it was a coolant return for the turbo, so I hear. Anyways, replace it!

[dmathias]

(Unsolicited endorsement) Buy Dave W's SS clutch line that eliminates the 'pig-tail'. It's the bomb. You probably already know this, but replace throw-out bearing and pilot bearing with new OEM. If you have time I highly recommend having the flywheel faced.

+1 on new slave cylinder.

-Denny

P.S. Step 1, (always) disconnect battery. Step 2, drain transmission.

P.S.S. I used an impact to disassemble - much easier on the constitution.

[wreckerboy]

If you are doing this with the motor in the car purchase 14mm and 17mm 1/2 drive swivel impact sockets to do the top bolts on the bellhousing with. They'll be pricey, but the investment turns a @#$% job into a simple one. Make sure you get 1/2 drive, not 3/8s because of the length of the extensions required. The smaller diameter hardware allows too much flex and you'll never break the bolts free.

Also, sometimes I cannot get at the top passenger's side bolt for love or money even with said flex sockets. Then a ratcheting box end wrench is perfect for the job.

Also consider removing the coil pack to keep it from getting damaged if the engine rocks back and forth as described above.

[Keith Novak]

Before I forget... Once you're done, make sure you check and if necessary adjust your clutch pedal. I have this friend who installed a new clutch which started slipping badly and twice removed, cleaned, and reinstalled everthing before finding that the problem was in the footwell, not the transmission.

[Tom Hampton]

Denny- Yep, that's exactly the one I bought...should arrive tomorrow. I can MAKE the time for the flywheel reface, but I am hoping to not have to. First day on the track has been booked for May 28. May is going to be very busy, and I'd rather get the car stuff out of the way...so I can focus on mother's day, graduations, etc... I want to get the car together and drive it on the road as much as I can in May to shake out any "bugs". I don't want to be scrambling to "get it finished" the 2 weeks before the track.

I bought the ACT kit which includes a throw-out and pilot. Are you saying don't use the ACT ones...or just be sure to put in new?

Keith- Is this one of those "friend" stories? You know....so Doc, I have this "friend", and he's got this "problem", um "down there"...what should I tell "him"...kind of stories?

Scottie-

What is this nipple you speak of? Never read any mention of this. Do you have a mazda P/N? Or can you point to it on a diagram? On the engine block inside the bell-housing? is it shown in this diagram below? Dang it...my mazda order is halfway here already....

[Scottie]

Denny- Yep, that's exactly the one I bought...should arrive tomorrow. I can MAKE the time for the flywheel reface, but I am hoping to not have to. First day on the track has been booked for May 28. May is going to be very busy, and I'd rather get the car stuff out of the way...so I can focus on mother's day, graduations, etc... I want to get the car together and drive it on the road as much as I can in May to shake out any "bugs". I don't want to be scrambling to "get it finished" the 2 weeks before the track.

I bought the ACT kit which includes a throw-out and pilot. Are you saying don't use the ACT ones...or just be sure to put in new?

Keith- Is this one of those "friend" stories? You know....so Doc, I have this "friend", and he's got this "problem", um "down there"...what should I tell "him"...kind of stories?

Scottie-

What is this nipple you speak of? Never read any mention of this. Do you have a mazda P/N? Or can you point to it on a diagram? On the engine block inside the bell-housing? is it shown in this diagram below? Dang it...my mazda order is halfway here already....

I can try to dig the part number up for you after work. It is on the back of the block, outside of the bell housing. It is a royal PIA to get to from above. on a 1.6, it is below the coil pack. It is not in the diagram you showed me.

[Tom Hampton]

I can try to dig the part number up for you after work. It is on the back of the block, outside of the bell housing. It is a royal PIA to get to from above. on a 1.6, it is below the coil pack. It is not in the diagram you showed me.

Okay, thanks.

Is this a mandatory thing, because it will be destroyed during disassemby?...or highly recommended because its a PITA from above, if it goes bad? I AM doing the whole engine at the end of the season...

[dmathias]

Rubber plug is on the back of the head, not the block.

T-O and pilot with kit is fine.

Last time I replaced a clutch I found a local machine shop that faced the flywheel same day turnaround - just doing my part to support the local economy.

If you do R&R the flywheel don't forget to RTV the bolts when re-assembling.

[Tom Hampton]

I think I found it: D-Code: 13-104T...part number: FEA7-13-104. On the back of the cylinder head where the rear water neck (heater outlet) exits. Looks like a little rubber cap and hose clamp (1/2" in diameter ---ish) facing towards the intake side of the engine.

I can see what you are saying...not sure how you'd get to that with the engine in the car (and transmission attached). I think I may have to risk it...and plan to make something if necessary. I don't want to buy a $4 part and pay the $20 shipping. I did that recently on the stupid lawnmower....twice. First I let a wrist-pin spring clip escape into the wild...then I sheered the flywheel key because the taper didn't seat properly. 85 cents each...$12 shipping...one week apart. UPS makes more money off me than the vendors do.

Denny- Yep, I remember reading that tidbit by someone on the old site. I remember someone learned the hard way that Lock-tite is the wrong thing to use.

[Jerry Cabe]

Rubber plug is on the back of the head, not the block.

T-O and pilot with kit is fine.

Last time I replaced a clutch I found a local machine shop that faced the flywheel same day turnaround - just doing my part to support the local economy.

If you do R&R the flywheel don't forget to RTV the bolts when re-assembling.

There is a rubber plug on the starter side of the block - reference 10-328 in your parts illustration. And there is one on the back of the head - 13-104T. I was thinking there was another one on the block, but I will have to look at an engine to refresh my memory. I replaced these, along with every piece of rubber, a few years ago when I had the engine out. For a little over $100 I got all new hoses and plugs just so I wouldn't wave to worry about them failing at the wrong time. I would suggest leaving this stuff alone until you remove engine.

I was just installing a new ACT clutch/PP and decided the flywheel probably should be resurfaced. I was prepared for maybe a week turnaround but was pleasently suprised when the shop did it in about 3 hours, and for $40. Just make sure they maintain the existing step between clutch interface surface and PP mount surface. Both must be machined. This requires the PP alignment pins to be pulled. The machinist took off about 0.010" from both surfaces, and I made the decision that the flywheel did not need to be rebalanced with only about a 0.1 lbm being taken off in a uniform pattern.

Unlike Denny, I chose to replace the flywheel bolts with new ($2.52 each); just helping to support the Japanese economy, and they need it right now.

[dmathias]

Jerry, you're a good man.

Tom, In a pinch I visit my local Mazda dealer for widgets that I forget to order from MazdaSpeed. Once and a while they even give me a discount if I mentioned it's for a Mazda racer.

[dstevens]

Wish our machine shops could turn around in a day. Flywheel 35 bucks, but a week or so out. The good blasting/coating place was at least a week out when I asked about my suspension.

[jeopardyracing]

I just did this over the winter on a new SSM build. In case it helps, some photos (both in this blog entry in and other photo albums you'll find in the blog:

http://blog.richramb...om/main/?p=1979

Be sure to keep it level when removing (putting a support on the front of the engine during removal helps) or the input shaft will be grabby and not want to let go. Once its off, check all the seals; as you'll see bunch of mine were leaking. The engine rear main seal wasn't but is now after SCCA WDCR comp school and MARRS 1. D'oh. If yours looks at all questionable, also a good time to do it unless you are taking the trans off again when the motor comes out.

[FTodaro]

Don't forget to Use lock tight on the flywheel bolts

[Dennis]

I missed the information "on the old site" about RTV vs Locktite on the flywheel bolts. What's that all about? I've always used blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts and never had a problem. I just checked my Mazda manual and it says to use "sealant" which means gasket sealer which = RTV. Guess I haven't been paying attention. Anybody......?

Dennis

[steveracer]

RTV or liquid teflon thread sealer.