25 replies to this topic

[Joe Benoit]

I was thinking of getting a new set of Dunlop Star Specs for doing the HPDE stuff I do. I typically used old RA1's that I scavenge from a few people, but I'm just about out. I run Sebring mostly and just want a set that will last a long time and take punishment. I've heard a few good things about the Star Specs but had a few questions.
Do you need to shave them to use them for HPDE's?
Could I use a tire like this in ITA in a pinch? (I'm already slow, so ultimate grip is not a concern )
Do you need to break these in/heat cycle them? Or just run then snot out of them till the cords show?

Joe

[DionJ]

We run them in Chumpcar from full tread, no break in. I've been quite impressed...

[KentCarter]

We run them in Chumpcar from full tread, no break in. I've been quite impressed...

Ditto.

Quick, predictable, durable, cheap.... what more could you want in a spec tire?

[chris haldeman]

+1

[forestdweller37]

My experience with the Star Specs has been similar. They're great in the rain too.

You might want to look at the Hankook RS-3 as well. They're a little more aggressive yet than the Star Specs, handle heat well, and are available in a 225/45-15 size. They wear like iron too. Not as good in the wet as the Star Specs though.

[hank24]

+1 I have been using Star Specs for HPDE and the couple SM instructors I have had were impressed with there grip and how well they hold up.

[Tom Hampton]

The hankook looks very interesting. Does the 225 actually fit? I've rolled the fender lips using the BFH approach, rather than the wedge the basball bat method.

I'm doing DE events this year, in preparation for superschool in december, followed by w2w in '12. At the moment, I have a set of 205/50r15 Fuzion ZRi on the car. Essentially one step down from the StarSpecs. I saw a max sustained mid-corner G ~1.05 (air temp was 100.4, that day) at MSR-Cresson two weeks ago with this tire.

After the ZRi set is cooked, I've been contemplating what tire to move to next. Initially, I was thinking the Nitto. But was having the thought that maybe I should have another intermediate step instead of going straight to the Nitto. Perhaps using either the StarSpecs or the Hankooks as that intermediate tire.

Otoh, if I went straight to the nitto, I guess I could begin collecting data on a tire that is similar to the RA-1...on the fantasy that I'm anywhere good enough to tell that kind of a subtle difference. Oh, right...I'm not.

Thoughts?

[Cy Peake]

Tom, get the Nittos after your current tires go south. You should try to get up to speed on a tire similar to what you'll be racing on so you're not dog-slow when you begin racing on them. I'll get a few races on them next weekend at Lime Rock and will let you know what I think of them compared to Toyos.

[Bruce Wilson]

[forestdweller37]

The hankook looks very interesting. Does the 225 actually fit? I've rolled the fender lips using the BFH approach, rather than the wedge the basball bat method.

I'm doing DE events this year, in preparation for superschool in december, followed by w2w in '12. At the moment, I have a set of 205/50r15 Fuzion ZRi on the car. Essentially one step down from the StarSpecs. I saw a max sustained mid-corner G ~1.05 (air temp was 100.4, that day) at MSR-Cresson two weeks ago with this tire.

After the ZRi set is cooked, I've been contemplating what tire to move to next. Initially, I was thinking the Nitto. But was having the thought that maybe I should have another intermediate step instead of going straight to the Nitto. Perhaps using either the StarSpecs or the Hankooks as that intermediate tire.

Thoughts?

The 225 Hankooks are standard fare for STS autocrossers on 15x7.5" rims w/o rolling. They'll take advantage of an 8" rim if you have them.

We burned through a set of ZRi's at last weekend's 7 hr. Chump race at BIR. The Star Specs we switched to afterwards were a significant step up.

-Chris

[Tom Hampton]

Tom, get the Nittos after your current tires go south. You should try to get up to speed on a tire similar to what you'll be racing on so you're not dog-slow when you begin racing on them. I'll get a few races on them next weekend at Lime Rock and will let you know what I think of them compared to Toyos.

Thanks, cy.

[Joe Benoit]

Thanks for all of the replies. I think I'll give them a try when the cords show on my current set of tires.

[Tom Hampton]

Tom, get the Nittos after your current tires go south. You should try to get up to speed on a tire similar to what you'll be racing on so you're not dog-slow when you begin racing on them. I'll get a few races on them next weekend at Lime Rock and will let you know what I think of them compared to Toyos.

So, what's the verdict?

[Cy Peake]

My buddy and I both had a new set of the NT01s on this weekend for some ITS racing. He liked them and I didn't, or rather he didn't complain about them and I did ;^) They grip well but the moulded tread is too deep for my tastes. I thought initial turn-in was very different than a shaved RA1 in that there's a delay while the tread rolls over and then takes a set, where with the shaved RA1 it's more immediate. They move around a bit under hard braking and emit a low pitched howl when they're sliding sideways. They're way heavier than a shaved tire. But I thought the grip level was comparable with the Toyos and the breakaway characteristics were very similar. Sidewall stiffness felt about the same at similar pressures. I was about a second slower on the Nittos (103.995) than on used shaved Toyos (102.933 used about 45 minutes earlier than the Nittos).

www.vimeo.com/25413139 at 15:48 for the howl from my friend's left front tire.

Overall I'd say it's a good tire to prep yourself for shaved RA1s, Tom, since the tire handles similarly and loses grip in the same manner. The turn-in response is just a nit-pick of mine.

[Tom Hampton]

So you both had full tread Nittos? Wouldn't be more valid to compare to full tread ra1, then?

Alternatively, as they wear down to a thinner, lighter state they should be more similar?

I know others have said to go straight to the ra1, but they aren't easy to find and there is a significant price delta... supply and demand, you know.

I'd rather spend on safety gear, and reliability parts, and track time when I don't HAVE to have THE spec tire.

[dstevens]

The problem with running different tires is that you aren't going to transfer that data over. If you want to run laps and get seat time that's all and good but tires are key in racing. It's going to be difficult, particularly for a novice to transfer over your setups running a different tire. With RA1s you can use these track days as testing and start building a setup book. Even if it's a couple hundred more for the RA1s right now it's better money spent in the long run as you'll be able to use the data.

[Tom Hampton]

Part of my rationale involves this thread:

http://mazdaracers.c...l=&fromsearch=1

Where according to Drago... it is exactly the same tire, except tread pattern. So, any setup notes in gather aren't a waste.

The second part, is the fact that I'm not that good, yet. If I started changing setups at this point, i would end up chasing my driving errors rather than the track.

I own zero setup gear, at this time. I know I have lots to learn, and I'm trying not to learn it all at once. When my lap times are limited by the car rather than ME, I'll start buying scales and stuff.

[Cy Peake]

I've driven on full tread RA1s plenty of times and they are most definitely NOT the same tire.

[Tom Hampton]

Got it. Sorry, was just going off your "vs. Shaved ra1" statements.

Thanks, cy.

[Joe Benoit]

I've driven on full tread and shaved RA1's and they are different, but you can still learn alot on the full treads. The full treads are a lot of fun and "talk" alot. Great for learning to drive and car control (I think). They also last forever! Mine are about 3 years old (were my old, unused rains). The shaved tires are way faster. If you are just learning to drive and can't achieve the ultimate fast lap in your car, then I'd say learn to drive on whatever you can afford. I'm not able to spend lots of money on testing and have no setup tools. I have a general setup for the car and only mess with sway bars and tire pressure. I figure I should be able to learn to drive the car on old tires or full tread tires. Seat time is most important for me right now.

When I get to the point that I have specific setups for the tracks I run, and the tires are my limiting factor, I'll start spending a little more on good rubber. Right now I'm too poor for such things.

Joe