Revised set up guide

I (and I am sure many other 'amateur' types such as myself) would be very appreciative of any setup tips you wished to pass on. Having info like that readily available is a great help to people just getting into SM. 

I'm particularly curious about how to use the possible increased front camber from the offset bushings to best advantage.... I was too lazy to install them last year, but will be trying them out this year. That's something not discussed in the Daniels guide. 

I totally would read it, print it and study it. As a noob, I am wanting to learn as much as possible. Please do it. 

 

Jim, I'd read, analyze and use points as I found value.

 

do you want to write the setting up the scale pads section ? with and without water level ?

do you want to write the setting up the scale pads section ? with and without water level ?

Dude, you know the answer.  

do you want to write the setting up the scale pads section ? with and without water level ?

Accurate to .0001". 

http://www.precision...biz/tools2/pwl/

Jim, I would encourage you to do this.  I've gone back to the Jim Daniels setup guide a couple of times through the years that I've had the SM.  You are correct, a lot has changed since it was written.  I think a lot of fellow competitors would appreciate it.

Jim,

Kindly note setup differences between early to current models if applicable.

Would I read it? Yep. Again and again. 

Thank you in advance for doing this should you choose to proceed.

Jim Venable

I too would appreciate an update.  I regularly refer back to the old setup guide.

Thanks,

Brian

Ride height is most commonly being measured from pinch welds in cars that haven't been destroyed thru many years of abuse. I check bump stop travel till I get to know the car. There are variations in pinch weld heights from car to car. Any set up guide written would be just that a guide. Track and chassis specific setups can only come from testing and repeatable set up changes

I don't recall if the old guide discussed Tire pressures, but i would include that since it looks like the SM7 will be around for awhile. You might consider having a Tire section to discuss that. a short discussion maybe about how you can use tire pressure to adjust on the car or make slight changes to cross with pressures. Unless this is secret?

that wins races every weekend.. 

Not too far from where we are right now.

Caveman is in another time zone on setup.

I haven't read the setup guide but we more or less still do the same procedures we did 10 years ago....starting with making sure the measuring equipment is accurate. The general principles carry over to the Spec Boxsters and the Global MX-5's as well (with a few small differences in suspension for each).

Here short story....
4.5 ride height level all around
3.5 front camber
3.3 rear camber
5.5 caster
1/8th tow out front
1/16th tow in rear
50.2 cross
Soft rear bar

Great start...Please add just a few parameters to this Chris or at least your thoughts! 

What tweaks might you make to be a little more specific for each Chassis?

VVT?

99-00?

94-97?

90-93?

24mm front sway bars have 3 adjustment positions and can be run on 90-97 cars...any reason to start anywhere but full soft?

Great start...Please add just a few parameters to this Chris or at least your thoughts! 

 

What tweaks might you make to be a little more specific for each Chassis?

 

VVT?

99-00?

94-97?

90-93?

 

24mm front sway bars have 3 adjustment positions and can be run on 90-97 cars...any reason to start anywhere but full soft?

This refers to 99-05, does anyone actually drive anything else

I agree with what Chris posted.

I make no changes based solely on year of car. I do make changes in ride height based on track. High speed, hi g load corners require a little higher setting than normal. You must keep the car off the bump stops.

Rear toe must be slightly in to get stability under hard braking.

90+% of front NA bars are full soft. Remember you can change 1 side at a time

90% of rear bars are full soft or middle soft.

Make sure the bars are free in their mounts.

Rear ride height can help stabilize the car in high speed corners. Down for less oversteer, up for more over steer. I am talking 1/2 turn changes.

Hot tire pressure 33-36 psi, based on what the driver likes. lower pressure is tricky to drive until the tires build pressure in a couple laps.

Perfect rain race set up; 4 jack stands and a car cover. I stole that from Drago

Keep consistent on your set up procedures. If you use toe plates in the shop, use toe plates at the track.

Adjust for what the car wants, not what somebody else has for a setup.

When a mechanically sound SM pushes into a corner, blame the driver, not the car. You are going in too fast.

Dave

How are you all determining ride height?

I use Frank's finger

"Hot tire pressure 33-36 psi, based on what the driver likes. lower pressure is tricky to drive until the tires build pressure in a couple laps."

This is so very true.  Pressure gauges read differently, so your buddies 35 psi might be 34 on your gauge.  So many times I have people ask us what are our starting pressures?, what are you shooting for hot?  What I am shooting for and what you are shooting for are probably not the same.  We don't have the same set up, the same driving style or same pressure gauge.

 Consistency is the important part, start with a baseline on the weekend and make small adjustments based on feedback from the driver/car/track changes.  Do the test day, come in mid session check pressures, make adjustment to see how it feels.  Don't think you are going to find nirvana in the warmup session before qualifying without doing any testing.  

This refers to 99-05, does anyone actually drive anything else

Obviously I'd love to see a complete guide for the new guys and just asking those questions that should be included in the info!

"Hot tire pressure 33-36 psi, based on what the driver likes. lower pressure is tricky to drive until the tires build pressure in a couple laps."

 

 

Daytona? Indy?......44psi??