Flat spotting Hoosiers - suggestions?

This is my first year running on Hoosiers.  And I like it as a tire, but damn, I'm flat spotting tires with regularity.  Never happened on Toyos.  Obviously, the Hoosier regulars figured this out long ago.  Open to any suggestions you may have.  I've been running on used Hoosiers - so, already broken in.  But when I flat spot them, I'm getting down to the cords/steel belts.

Front or rear? What brake pads?

Front or rear? What brake pads?

 

Fronts only. GLoc 12's and 8's.

G-LOC recommends R10 for the front. Too much front brake might be your problem.

I'm running R10 on front also, R8 on back.

Buy a new set of hohos and you'll see why they suck. First heat cycle you'll think you're Senna, the rest of the tire life you feel like Larry.

This is my first year running on Hoosiers.  And I like it as a tire, but damn, I'm flat spotting tires with regularity.  Never happened on Toyos.  Obviously, the Hoosier regulars figured this out long ago.  Open to any suggestions you may have.  I've been running on used Hoosiers - so, already broken in.  But when I flat spot them, I'm getting down to the cords/steel belts.

 

I don't find it that easy to lock up the Hoosiers at all and I run the 18 compound on the front. Its all a give and take.  You will be less likely to lock up on 10 front and 8 rear, but you will give up braking as well.  The min I would try would be 12 in the front, 8-10 in rear. But IMO, 16/12 is a good package and 18/12 if you want the car to stop, not slow down   As you get more aggressive, it is easier to lock up tires

And there friends is the difference in threshold braking skill of a two time national champion vs. the 2017 SMSE ECR attendance winner.

And there friends is the difference in threshold braking skill of a two time national champion vs. the 2017 SMSE ECR attendance winner.

 

     

And there friends is the difference in threshold braking skill of a two time national champion vs. the 2017 SMSE ECR attendance winner.

Three time if you include NASA, but who’s counting?

G-LOC recommends R10 for the front. Too much front brake might be your problem.

 

Actually, they generally recommend 12/10 on RRs and HoHos.  10/8 was a better match for the RA1.  Again according to both the people at Carbotech and G Loc.  

Recently, I saw a post on FB where Mr. Puskar suggested 16/12 may be a good option for some as well.  Fwiw, he recommended against the 14 for a Miata.

Of course, driver preference plays a role too...

Just saying, none of the cool kids run less than 16s on the front.  

 

 

Just saying, none of the cool kids run less than 16s on the front. 

I'm assuming all the cool kids are in NBs. I'm also assuming it's pointless to ask if the 16/12 combo works for a NA1.6.

I'm assuming all the cool kids are in NBs. I'm also assuming it's pointless to ask if the 16/12 combo works for a NA1.6.

16/12 IMO in a 1.6 would be similar to 18/12 in heavier NB.  If you are not flat spotting tires, I would try it  

I still question the large F/R difference. I want the rear tires contributing as much as possible during threshold braking. Even if you are a heavy trail-braker you don’t want to start braking (stop accelerating) sooner than necessary. We tried various recommendations from Carbotech, Cobalt and others but always ended up with the same compound front & rear at almost every track (Memphis being one possible exception).

Note: There are multiple factory bias valves across the various model years and for awhile at least it was not uncommon to swap for something different than delivered particularly on the 1.6, which could impact compound selection. We strictly ran the correct part on our NAs and NBs.

I resisted a lower compound in the rear for ages as well.  Then I tried it and it helped me on trail brake. 

I still prefer the overall feel of the more aggressive compound on the rear (run the same as front).  Feels like the car brakes a little better overall.  But, again, helped me personally trail brake better.

YMMV...

I still question the large F/R difference. I want the rear tires contributing as much as possible during threshold braking. Even if you are a heavy trail-braker you don’t want to start braking (stop accelerating) sooner than necessary. We tried various recommendations from Carbotech, Cobalt and others but always ended up with the same compound front & rear at almost every track (Memphis being one possible exception).

Note: There are multiple factory bias valves across the various model years and for awhile at least it was not uncommon to swap for something different than delivered particularly on the 1.6, which could impact compound selection. We strictly ran the correct part on our NAs and NBs.

camber settings?

camber settings?

Good question and potentially relevant. It has varied a bit over time and by track but typically a few tenths less rear than front. We played a lot with rake on the 1.6s to get the rotation that we wanted and that went hand in hand with F/R camber balance and the degree of trail braking needed. We had less time to experiment with the NBs but had a baseline of about 3.7 front and 3.2 rear with zero rake, relying more on trail braking. But there are other variables and it always boils down to testing at a given track and of course driver feel.