Por 15 Paint

Hi All,  Long time lurker, first time poster.  I'm new to SM racing and eager to start my first season as soon as I'm allowed out of the house.  In the meantime, I'm going to paint the inside of my car as it's starting to show a little surface rust.  I was planning on using rust-o-leum with a brush and then spray over it as Dave W suggests in his constructors guide.  

 

My neighbor (who knows a lot about general automotive, not SM racing specifically) suggested using a product called Por 15.  He claims it's the best against rust and lays down so nicely you can just brush it on and not worry about spraying over it to get rid of brush marks as Dave suggests. 

 

Has anyone used Por 15 on the inside of the car?  If so, does it work as well as my neighbor suggests?  Thanks!

 

Here is the product in question:  https://www.por15.co...ventive-Coating

This is a “no, but...” reply while you wait for more about Por 15.

What works for me is Rustoleum mixed with a hardener plus Flood Penetrol for adhesion and reducing brush marks. Together they thin it out a bit but the result is nicer and more durable.

This is a “no, but...” reply while you wait for more about Por 15.

What works for me is Rustoleum mixed with a hardener plus Flood Penetrol for adhesion and reducing brush marks. Together they thin it out a bit but the result is nicer and more durable.

Thanks!  Do you simply brush it on then without spraying?  I'm thinking brushing it without having to tape everything will be much easier.  Would this combo also work for the cage?  I'm going be painting that as well.  Thanks again.

I used it on the underbody of my SM.   One tip.....do whatever it takes to keep it off your skin.   I'm a messy painter and I wasn't covered up like I should've been.   It was a nightmare to get off. Seems to be really durable once applied though.   

POR works as described but might be overkill for the cost. Follow the directions and I have had great results.

Also, POR-15 is not UV stable, so I would not recommend for use on the roll cage.

POR15 is expensive.  I used it on a few areas under the car where there was surface rust after I used a wire wheel to get most of it off and following their 3 step process.  I wouldn't use it for the interior.  Partially due to price but also b/c it's not UV stable so it requires an additional top coat of paint.

 

I had limited success with Dave's method of applying Rustoleum.  It doesn't seem to stick well enough for a highly abused surface like the floor of a race car.  Steve's method may address that.

 

side note - POR15's degreaser is the best degreaser I ever used. 

POR15 is expensive. I used it on a few areas under the car where there was surface rust after I used a wire wheel to get most of it off and following their 3 step process. I wouldn't use it for the interior. Partially due to price but also b/c it's not UV stable so it requires an additional top coat of paint.

I had limited success with Dave's method of applying Rustoleum. It doesn't seem to stick well enough for a highly abused surface like the floor of a race car. Steve's method may address that.

side note - POR15's degreaser is the best degreaser I ever used.

Good point about driver’s side floor. We give it a couple coats then follow that with a couple coats of textured trunk paint for a no-slip surface. That still wears through but easily touched up as needed.

Thanks for all of the advice guys.  I didn't think of the UV stability...it's probably not good for anywhere on the inside then.  It sounds like Steve's method is the way to go.  

 

Steve, do you have some sort of a "recipe" that you generally follow?  i.e. parts paint to hardener to thinner?  Thanks again!  I'm going to get started after this next wave of rain hoping it's the last of the season.

Por15 top coat is uv stable. The rust preventative coat isnt.

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I didn't think of the UV stability...it's probably not good for anywhere on the inside then. It sounds like Steve's method is the way to go.

Steve, do you have some sort of a "recipe" that you generally follow? i.e. parts paint to hardener to thinner? Thanks again! I'm going to get started after this next wave of rain hoping it's the last of the season.

Embarrassed to say not. I’ve experimented a bit each time starting with about 1/2 the recommended amounts. Both somewhat thin the paint, particularly the hardener, and that was what defined my limits, ready to add more paint if too thin.

I’ve used Por 15 as an undercoat on a trailer frame. Frame had a lot of surface rust and after I hit it with the wire wheel , used Por 15 and the top coat they recommend. Really happy with it. IMO might be overkill on the interior of the car, but is a good option .. and yes the stuff bonds like heck to your skin .. also used Rustoleum professional grey and black on the door panels and roll bars and trunk . Works great, did not need to brush it on first. Both Grey and Black in that professional line of Rustokeum go on easy and harden great. Have used Eastwood Engine Ceramic paint on the passenger floor. Very resistant to scuffing and it’’a a two part paint with a lot of fumes.. but they don’t persist in the car and I am still alive so far . It depends ultimately what you want, how much time you want to spend. IMO rustoleum professional is easy and best look and bang for the buck. In that line I think the spray nozzle and quality of paint is better. Just my 2 cents.

Cal

Have never seen Rustoleum professional, will give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

4-5 years ago I sprayed some Rubber Flexx on a rusty trailer frame angle iron without any clean up. Still there today, no fade or peel. There is actually two of these materials, Rubber Flexx and Flex Seal. Was thinking about doing the entire trailer without clean up (lazy or energy saver, take your choice  ), with air hose blow the dirt/whatever off and spray material on.