7 replies to this topic

[Sparky]

I've gotten the driving bug.

After a few track events in my 2011 Mustang GT, I'm ready to get a purpose built track car. My thought is that a smaller, lower HP car will help me become a better driver quicker. I find that the Miatas nearly always spank me in turns, and so I'm considering getting one. I've also heard that the cost of consumables is amongst the lowest of any vehicle (low consumption of things like tires and brakes and low cost of replacement). After figuring out that it'll cost me ~$1500 to replace the tires on my Mustang, that sounds good to me.

My current thinking is to get something like one of the "lot driveable" chassis/cages I see advertised on planet-miata.com (link), finish it out to do DEs, and then if I choose to do so build it into a spec car and go racing. However, I'll probably need some kind of custom cage or at least seat mount since I'm 6'4". I've met a guy my height who has a Spec Miata and he let me sit in his car, so I know it's possible. His seat was bolted to the floor, IIRC.

Any comments on this strategy? Thoughts on what it would cost to build a respectable DE car from one of these incomplete, caged chassis? Or am I better off finding a used complete car, even given the fact that my height will probably require car modification anyway?

Thanks for any thoughts.

PS. Budget through the DE prep phase is is about $10K, including a trailer (I see them all the time for +/- $1500). I have no problem doing my own mechanical work, but any fabrication will have to be outsourced.

[dstevens]

This site doesn't have the new guy info like the archive site. Archive site is still searchable at www.specmiata.com .

First thing, go buy this book. The Spec Miata Constructors Manual at http://www.advanced-...&products_id=42 . Might be the best 20 bucks spent.

The archive site and Dave Wheeler's book cover the ins and outs of build vs buy.

There are several of us that are in builds, just finished stages of build and lots of folks that have been around for a while.

[Kyle Burkhardt]

Buy a built car. I'm 6'5" and bought from a guy who was 5'8". I didn't need any cage modification.

[davew]

Thanks for the positive reviews of my book. But your budget is unreasonable.

$1500 for a trailer
$5000 for a caged tub
$1000 for a hardtop
$1500 for suspension kit
$500 for bare minimum safety stuff, seat, belts, etc. Probably more like $1000
$1200 tires and wheels
You are already over budget. And you have not even changed the oil yet!!!

Sorry to be the downer in the rrom, but I have seen this too many times.

Start with a lot of reading, My book, Rule book for the group you plan on racing with, the old Specmiata.com site and the older threads on this site. Do you homework, it will pay off in the long run.

Then if you still want to stay on budget, look for one of the $7500 specials and go have fun. Knowing that you won't be competitive in that type of equipment. Buy it from a reputable source. Ebay specials are usually not worth the effort.

My 2 cents
Dave

[JayF]

Thanks for the positive reviews of my book. But your budget is unreasonable.

$1500 for a trailer
$5000 for a caged tub
$1000 for a hardtop
$1500 for suspension kit
$500 for bare minimum safety stuff, seat, belts, etc. Probably more like $1000
$1200 tires and wheels
You are already over budget. And you have not even changed the oil yet!!!

Sorry to be the downer in the rrom, but I have seen this too many times.

Start with a lot of reading, My book, Rule book for the group you plan on racing with, the old Specmiata.com site and the older threads on this site. Do you homework, it will pay off in the long run.

Then if you still want to stay on budget, look for one of the $7500 specials and go have fun. Knowing that you won't be competitive in that type of equipment. Buy it from a reputable source. Ebay specials are usually not worth the effort.

My 2 cents
Dave

Dave is spot on. Take your budget and double it and its more realistic.

[Sparky]

Dave is spot on. Take your budget and double it and its more realistic.

Thanks for the comments. Remember that the $10K is to get the car ready to go for HPDE, not for racing, so I'd avoid at least some expense (e.g. hardtop, fire suppression system) that I could add later, but I take the point that my budget may be low.

[Randy Thieme]

* Some drive their cars to the track towing a Harbor Freight 4'x4' trailer for tires and gear. That would cut $1500 for the flatbed but adds back $400 for the 4'x4', hitch and gear. If you live close enough to a track to spend the night at home consider this option. Save $1100.

* The spec suspension is not necessary for track days. Desirable? Yes. Required? No. Save $1500. Using the spec suspension adds additional costs. With the coil-overs you'll need to pay attention to cross-weight and ride height. A regular alignment shop won't be able to handle it unless the owner/mechanic is a racer themselves. Instead you'll need a racing set-up and alignment from someone who knows what they're doing. Racers I know who do that for other racers typically charge around $200 give or take.

* Rebuild your brake system with new master cylinder and new or rebuilt calipers on all four corners. This is one thing that should be a known quantity regardless of how good the existing system looks or feels. Add $500.

* Buy used R-888's cheap and ignore their critics. R-888's are perfectly suitable for track days. Probably pick up a used set for $100 a set or less, especially after this season is over when they're no longer legal. Also avoids the cost of shaving new tires. Save $500-$600.

Net savings $2600.

One thing about running sans hard-top. Clubs are starting to enforce a 2" rule for convertibles. That means taking a broom stick and laying it across the top of the windshield frame and the roll bar (or cage) and measuring the height above the helmet. If you're tall make sure you can meet that rule, otherwise you may need the hard-top afterall.

[William Bonsell]

Thanks for the comments. Remember that the $10K is to get the car ready to go for HPDE, not for racing, so I'd avoid at least some expense (e.g. hardtop, fire suppression system) that I could add later, but I take the point that my budget may be low.

Doubtful you will find any clubs allowing you to DE your Miata without a Hardtop or at the very least a good roll bar which could cost upwards of $500 plus install. I agree with others, buy a built car - many perfectly good, mid pack cars can be had for under 10K....and then buy a suit, helmet, gloves, shoes and a hans device - Or buy a early 1.6 car with hardtop for 4K and then get ready to spend a ton of time and a lot of dollars prepping it to full race car status. You will be at $15,000 before you can blink an eye.

But all your efforts, whichever way you go, will be rewarded. I can't think of anything else I would rather be doing than racing my spec whether it's 10 events a year or 3........