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Help reconnecting this connector to the harness

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#1
Richard Pressman

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The coolant temp sensor connector wire has broken off of the connector - the one on the thermostat housing. I've got a couple ideas about how to reconnect it to the wiring harness, but before I go and butcher it up I thought I'd check to see if any of you have already been here and have already made the mistakes I'm about to make. I haven't been able to locate a source for this connector with a pigtail already attached. If you know of one that would be good, too.

Here's a link to a picture of what I've got to work with: http://mazdaracers.c...ewimage&img=917

Thanks,

Richard
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#2
Qik Nip

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Richadr:
Mine broke and I used a new female spade connector that mated with the sensor's male spade. The plastic body isn't essential.
Rick

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#3
davew

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Use a small crimp on connector that will fit on the sensors terminal. Then use a dolop of RTV silicone to hold the connector in place.

I have looked for that connector seperately, but have had no luck. But I did find alternator plugs!!

Dave

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#4
Nash Lawson

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Call Steve at Panic Motorsports in Columbia, SC and he might have one he can send you. He always has the little odds and ends I need. That way all you will need to do is connect the leads.
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#5
ChrisA

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I've made repairs to breaks at the terminal in other connectors before. What I did was use a small jeweler's screw driver to release the terminal from the weather pack connector, then robbed a similar terminal & length of wire from an unused connector, spliced in the good wire & connector and reinserted into the weather pack.

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#6
Richard Pressman

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Thanks for the responses.

I wound up cutting away the upper portion of the cap down to where the "body" of the cap begins - leaving the release tab intact. This exposed the very top of the metal tang which connects to the pin in the sensor. It also exposed about a 1/4" of wire. Stripping the wire allowed me to insert a new wire along side the old and also into the metal crimp section of the tang - which was now loose because of the rubber insulator which was removed along with the plastic pieces. Re-crimped, soldered, RTV'd, and painted with some liquid rubber for good measure. VOM shows a zero ohm circuit and we're back in business.

Thanks again for the input.

rjp
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