5 replies to this topic

[Colby Scott]

Ok, here's the issue. I recently began installing a cage in my car this past weekend and have currently finished the main hoop and the rear down tubes. When I mocked up the main hoop I had no clearance issues with the top. However, after taking the main hoop out, finish welding it, and the finish welding it and the rear down tubes back in the car I now have about a half inch gap between the hard top and the car on the passenger side. The only way that I can think of that this happened is that i somehow moved the main hoop twards the passenger side when I placed it back in the car even though i used the same marks as i did during mach up. Now the only question is how do i get rid of the gap and get the top to sit flush. I considered a hammer but the top is fiberglass so that wont work. I considered heating the bottom of the main hoop and taking a bfh to it but I dont really know how that would turn out. And lastly i've though of just cutting out a slip for the main hoop in the top but didnt want to ruin a perfectly good hard top if i didnt have to. So...if ANYONE has ANY suggestions as to how to fix my skrew up i'd be very appreciative.

[Greg Kimble]

I think your only option is to cut the hoop out and reposition it to gain the clearance that you need. I am pretty sure that any modification to the hardtop would not be legal (no to mention the areo issues that it may cause). I think I would get out the sawzall and cut the cage as close to the landing plates as possible, grind off down the old welds, repositon, and weld it up with the top in place. Hopefully you are not so tall as to have issues with the cage sitting slightly lower in the car.

Greg

[Colby Scott]

do you think that the hoop would be able to be moved without haveing to undo the down tubes or do you think that id need to cut those loose too? And if i cut it I dont think that it would go through or deform the outer surface, just the inner lining.

[dstevens]

To do it right it's going to have to come out, including the down bars. When you move the end of the hoop closer to the roof line it's likely going to change the geometry of your hoop to down bar. Hopefully you won't have to bend a new hoop.

Here are a couple of things that help me with the cages I've done...

1) Tack the entire assembly, all bars and components prior to any finish welds. It will help insure good fitment while maintaining the integrity of the mock up. If it's not all tacked first it's easy to knock something out and if you are doing finish welds as you go there could be some heat distortion that by the time you get to the last bars in place parts could have moved. If it's only tacked and you have a fitment issue it's easier to cut it out with a cut off wheel, Sawzall or plasma. I tack every 90* around the tube so it's less likely to pull more one way than the other. Once the entire assembly is tacked you can check the roof fit prior to finish welding. When you do the finish welding, do one area or cluster, then move to another area in another part of the structure letting the first area cool.

2) I use string lines and plumbs to make sure I maintain the geometric plane. The studly guys can eye it but I need something to compare it to.

3) Angle finders, levels and good old fashion tape measures can help maintain placement. For me good clamps are a must. I've been using a combination of these from Van Sant http://www.vansanten...positioners.htm and some like them I made for use with welding Vise Grips. I've got a couple of these newer type Stronghand clamps on the way. (PA634) http://www.vansanten...htm#jointmaster

[Jim Drago]

The easiest way to fix this is as follows:
Take a sawzall an cut the main hoop off at the base on both sides, literally against the base or landing plate. Try and save the the entire length of the hoop. Do the same thing with the down tubes. Once you have out, trim off the necessary amount to get the desired clearance, grind off any of the old weld. The reweld and your done. You can do this in a little over an hour. The little bit of difference in height should still have you close to center on landing plates on the down tubes as well. We have cut several cages out in this manner. It is fast and easy. You will not need to rebend a new hoop or replace any bars

Jim

[joeg5982]

Using the cut-out method, you will be very close to the dimensions needed to fix your issue regardless.

Fix what you have; don't go crazy bending new bars.