51 replies to this topic

[dstevens]

On the rears, stay away from Timkin bearings. I tried a batch of 10. Most failed within 2 days. I tossed 2 brand new ones in the scrap bin. They where THAT bad!!!

That's handy. the local parts joints, Autozone, O'Reilly have the Timkins cheap. The local industrial bearing supply is good as well and can generally match most any bearing I bring. I was tempted to get them or an SKF that fit. This time though, I went with Mazdaspeed rears and did my fronts. The first time I did the fronts they seemed to have a greater rolling resistance. I opened them back up, cleaned out and repacked with less grease and they roll more freely.

[FTodaro]

So do the rears get taken apart to repack? You can tell I have not done the rear of the car yet.

[Keith Novak]

Frank,
I replaced my rears because they were 135k miles old and I had stuff apart to do other stuff. It was a "while I'm in there" kind of thing.

It's a totally different kind of bearing. They're cartridge bearings rather than ball, retainer, and dust seal (much better seals in a cartridge bearing) and I believe they're roller bearings which spreads out the load much much better than a BB. Press the cartridge out. Press a new cartridge in. Unless one takes a dump, I don't plan on replacing them.

[FTodaro]

Frank,
I replaced my rears because they were 135k miles old and I had stuff apart to do other stuff. It was a "while I'm in there" kind of thing.

It's a totally different kind of bearing. They're cartridge bearings rather than ball, retainer, and dust seal (much better seals in a cartridge bearing) and I believe they're roller bearings which spreads out the load much much better than a BB. Press the cartridge out. Press a new cartridge in. Unless one takes a dump, I don't plan on replacing them.

Thanks Keith, that is what I was looking for. I am going to repack the CV joints this winter and was wondering if I ought to plan on doing the wheel bearing, to the extent I can inspect them I will.

[Muda]

....I believe they're roller bearings.....

On my '91 they are balls. I believe they're the same for all.

[iambhooper]

has anyone ever noticed a variation in hub nut's? while performing routine pre-race maintenance on the brake calipers, I noticed that the right front spun free, but the left didn't spin very "far". I decided to pull it and repack it, done, I put it back on the spindle only to have the same result's. Any clue? the front hub's are in good shape (i just put them on 3 race weekend's ago).

[FTodaro]

has anyone ever noticed a variation in hub nut's? while performing routine pre-race maintenance on the brake calipers, I noticed that the right front spun free, but the left didn't spin very "far". I decided to pull it and repack it, done, I put it back on the spindle only to have the same result's. Any clue? the front hub's are in good shape (i just put them on 3 race weekend's ago).

I am not following the question, is it that the "hub Nuts" do not spin free or the Hub? If the hubs do not spin equally it is just a variation of the spec of the hub is my guess.

[Bench Racer]

while performing routine pre-race maintenance on the brake calipers, I noticed that the right front spun free, but the left didn't spin very "far". I decided to pull it and repack it, done, I put it back on the spindle only to have the same result's. Any clue? the front hub's are in good shape.

Are the brake pads free both sides?

Brake back plate rub on left side?

Switch nuts from side to side with normal torque?

If left is now free it would appear to be the nut.

If left still not free, switch the hubs from side to side?

After this deals ^ are complete please report back

[Blake Thompson]

The nature of bearing failure seems to be they get noisy and/or loose, and some time later they fail. If you check them and pay attention to your ears, you should be able to replace them before failure quite reliably. The whole idea of doing "something" to them every few sessions seems like serious overkill to me. BTW, my factory hubs normally last several years, without being touched.

We have a contingent that loves to think our cars are related to F1. They change all their lubricants every weekend, and perform all manner of other incantations. While things certainly do wear out, the reality is that we drive remarkably reliable little cars, and for the most part they just keep running. I say this from the standpoint of one of the few guys who actually depends on the race car to get him home every weekend. It always does.

I have had them NOT get noisey but have around 1/16" in play side to side when shaking the wheel on a jack stand. I check play at LEAST 3x a weekend. Especially after Chris P. put it up at Gingerman this summer. Hub failure is not awesome.

There is no point to aligning within 1mm if you have 1/16" or more in bearing play. It makes it damn hard to drive the car with any accuracy when the bearings start to give.

[hoverducky]

Late to the party, here.

I used to have good luck harvesting used front hubs from junkyards and repacking them. Then I got tired of the occasional early failure and having to clean them while repacking, so I bought some "white box" hubs on Ebay and repacked those. I noticed that the socket I was using to back up the installation of long wheel studs on a press was leaving indented rings in the hub flange. The hubs never went on the car.

So I bought some GMB hubs on Ebay and repacked those. Went through four of them in one day at the track. Most of them developed play after one session. Letting them go another session resulted in the rumblies. I had to borrow two hubs to make it through the weekend.

I don't buy hubs on Ebay any more. I now run a re-packed pair from a respected member of the Spec Miata community and will continue to keep re-packed junkyard units as spares. I check for play every time the car goes up on a jack, at least twice a day. Hub failures do nothing for your lap times. Or your brake pads.

As far as rears go, we've started to see a lot of hub flange failures out here, so I replaced the spindles before this past season. Did the bearings while I was in there.

Scott

[iambhooper]

Are the brake pads free both sides?

Brake back plate rub on left side?

Switch nuts from side to side with normal torque?

If left is now free it would appear to be the nut.

If left still not free, switch the hubs from side to side?

After this deals ^ are complete please report back

I swapped them side to side. I repacked the one that seemed to "drag". I ordered new hub nut's. None of this changed it. So, I returned it for a warranty exchange at Oreilly's.... I've not had time to do more than put the "new" one on the spindly, hand tighten the nut, and see... it does the same as the old one!

I'm going with Todaro's theory of variation.... mostly because I want to go race the Go, and don't have the time to F around on the car.

[Qik Nip]

We have a contingent that loves to think our cars are related to F1. They change all their lubricants every weekend, and perform all manner of other incantations.

I'm sort of with Jim on this one. My only maintenance excess is the MS comp diff. I change it's oil every race weekend. I do however inspect my front hubs for play every session.
Rick