
What I know about Hoosiers
#1
Posted 09-28-2011 03:55 PM

SPEC MIATA BASELINE SET-UP
-3 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
+3 to +5 caster (equal on each side)
zero toe
Hot psi 38+
start wet tire pressure 2-3 psi higher than dry pressures
- RacerX likes this
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230





#2
Posted 09-28-2011 04:18 PM

http://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm
Scroll down to the bottom and you get...
Set-up information (like you just gave)
Tire Care (Heat cycle) Tire temps, etc.
J~








#3
Posted 09-28-2011 04:32 PM


#4
Posted 09-28-2011 04:49 PM

I talked with the Hoosier tire reps at the Runoffs last week. This is what I was told:
SPEC MIATA BASELINE SET-UP
-3 camber front
-2.5 camber rear
+3 to +5 caster (equal on each side)
zero toe
Hot psi 38+
start wet tire pressure 2-3 psi higher than dry pressures
F/R both at zero?
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#5
Posted 10-04-2011 11:45 AM

Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region




#6
Posted 10-04-2011 12:15 PM

Personally, since I only run regional events I refuse to advertise a product for free (i.e. no regional contingency program), so I won't need to put that ugly-ass Hoosier logotype on my car. Old English?, really?, is it a tire company or a newspaper.

#7
Posted 10-04-2011 12:25 PM

#8
Posted 10-04-2011 03:27 PM

More on this link too:
http://www.hoosiertire.com/tctips.htm
No insight on heat cycles?
I would guess this is hugely dependant on driver and cycle time. My guess is fast drivers will wear out Hoosiers before cycle out and the opposite for the guys further back

Ron
RAmotorsports


#9
Posted 10-04-2011 03:49 PM

#10
Posted 10-04-2011 07:16 PM

Our region allows open tire in regional races so many of us have ran Hoosiers, my experience is in agreement with what I read on the web, if you like to slide the car the Hoosiers will not last. comparing the RA-1 to the Hoosier at mid Ohio this is my observations. The Hoosier for me did not last long. I got like 1.5 weekends out of a set. I suspect it was because i was driving them like a toyo where i like to slide them a little.I would guess this is hugely dependant on driver and cycle time. My guess is fast drivers will wear out Hoosiers before out and the opposite for the guys further back
I'm sure many have run Hoosiers in other classes for years...maybe someone can lend their experience here?
Hoosiers tech sheet discusses that the tire does not like to be slid. I found that the Hoosier was grippier faster than the RA-1out of the box but for me with my style after the tire got hot it went away. The toyo for me would come on at about the 20 min mark and I could start keeping up with the Hoosiers and then they would come back to me.
Now that we are going to be required to run them in the national events, I am going to try and change my driving style and not slide them. there are guys in 1.6's that love them. they get 18 or so HC out of them. My heavy 99 and my heavy foot did not seam to get along so well.
If I could get a few more HC out of them I would be happy but 1.5 weekends is not cutting it.
This may also be track specific I have heard comments that Mid O may also be a contributing factor, but I always felt that track was easy on tires compared to some.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region




#11
Posted 10-04-2011 07:24 PM

While I am no expert... The Toyos don't like being slid either. Check the classifieds under my name and tires.

Seriously, if you are sliding the car on any tires, the car is not handling correctly, a controlled drift is about as much sliding as you should be doing. Anymore than that you are losing time, heating up the tires which will then cost you even more time, lots of time.
Jim
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080














#12
Posted 10-04-2011 07:51 PM

Jim I do not disagree with that at all, and I have been working on being a little "smoother" easier on the tires. I do have a tendency to get a little more wheel spin than i should on the exit going to the gas to quick or not modulating off the throttle on some faster corners that that the car would push. I should maybe drive someone car some time to see if its just me and my foot or a missed set up. I can say however that the Toyo's took my abuse better than the Hoosier, but I will also say, by experience that they Hoosier is a little more easy to flat spot. I run the Hawk blue's and a few times when I had the tires hot and came into a brake zone heavy I have flat spotted the right front on a right hand turn in.Frank
While I am no expert... The Toyos don't like being slid either. Check the classifieds under my name and tires.
Seriously, if you are sliding the car on any tires, the car is not handling correctly, a controlled drift is about as much sliding as you should be doing. Anymore than that you are losing time, heating up the tires which will then cost you even more time, lots of time.
Jim
I was just thinking tonight that next year when I run the Hoosier that I will have to look into maybe a little less aggressive brake pad or get my shit together and smooth out my inputs.
Again, likely my harsh inputs. Just pointing it out that the tire may take a little more finesse.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region




#13
Posted 10-04-2011 09:11 PM

All the alignment specs are pretty close to our baseline though. Maybe a touch less camber.
RJ Racing
2011 25 Hours of Thunderhill Champion - E3 Class
2012/2009/2008 WERC Champion - E3 Class
2010 NASA Nationals Champion - TTE Class
rjracing.net
facebook.com/rj.racing
twitter.com/rjracing



#14
Posted 10-05-2011 07:17 AM

#15
Posted 10-05-2011 08:29 AM

A 'little guy' like me, that ran 1 or 2 sets of Toyos all season, and part of the next season, will see their tire cost go up. In my experience, when Hoosiers cycle out - they're done, whereas Toyo are generally useable until they cord.

#16
Posted 10-05-2011 01:59 PM

Rick
P.S. I've observed the Hoosier builds less air pressure than the RA1 and seems to like being run hot at 38 psi.
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.





#17
Posted 10-05-2011 04:47 PM

P.S. I've observed the Hoosier builds less air pressure than the RA1...
Only agree with this statement Rick, through my experiences. You are running the Hoosiers at a bit higher pressures than me, so could be some of the difference?
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users