Nitrogen for Tires.
#1
Posted 12-14-2011 09:12 PM
I would think that this would be an advantage because you could start out your session with more air pressure, which may get you up to speed faster.
Anyone use nitrogen, any pros or cons? Is it worth doing?
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#2
Posted 12-14-2011 09:57 PM
Most compressed air has high moisture content and it varies. So it plays with the amount your race tires blow up when your tires are coming up to temperature. Nitrogen is obvious consistent and does not grow as much and is always constant.
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
#3
Posted 12-15-2011 02:46 AM
IOW, if you are getting inconsistent readings across the contact patch with temps and inconsistent pressure readings and you know you are on a balanced and/or optimum set up, could be the compressed air. That said, I ran compressed air from my compressor and dryer/filter (Motorguard M60} the second season of stock car racing because I traded my big tank for MIG mix. I now have enough tanks for welding and Nitrogen so the SM will get nitrogen. I couldn't tell in the hobby stock but I was on old street tires from the used tire joint and there were other things wrong with the car. Kept having a problem with a loose nut behind the wheel, though I did finish 8th for the season in a 40 car class in a car that was less than optimal. I bet most SMers won't notice but the gang at the pointy end of the grid probably will. It is cheap to fill (compared to welding gasses). My last big 250 cuft bottle fill was 27 bucks, out the door. My last 100% argon was 80 bucks plus for a 150cuft and last 86/14 MIG mix150 cuft was just under 70 bucks. Nitrogen is pretty cheap.
Link to bottle size designations from where I get my gases.
http://www.airgas.co...d=7000000000234
#4
Posted 12-15-2011 06:55 AM
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good
#5
Posted 12-15-2011 06:57 AM
Some folks say they can dry compressed air enough so it doesn't vary but I've never tired it.
I used SCUBA air for several seasons. less than .1% moisture. A 60cf alum tank lasted 2 week ends filling tires and running air tools.
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good
#6
Posted 12-15-2011 07:54 AM
#7
Posted 12-15-2011 08:58 AM
Is it better for use in a tire. Maybe.
Air is 72% nitrogen, so what we are worried about is the other 28%. On a cold day in December, humidity is around 5%. Hot summer day in August it may be 90%. It is that variation in water content that gives the inconsistent readings. Even on a dry day, if the compressor is full of water, you end up with humid air.
Just like doing allignments, there are many methods, but consistency is the important part. If you can keep your humidity consistent from your compressor, you will always have the same amount of tire pressure increase for a given set of circumstances. Nitrogen is always the same humidity. Therefore consistant.
To properly use nitrogen, you must mount the tires with air (no sense wasting expensive nitrogen beading tires. Then purge all the air out, refill with nitrogen, purge that out. Then fill for use. As Glenn said PITA.
I carry nitrogen all the time in my semi. I do not normally fill tires with nitrogen.
Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
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608-313-1230
#8
Posted 12-15-2011 10:10 AM
http://philstireservice.com Enkei Team Dynamics The Miata Wheel Motegi Apex Wedsport Hoosier Toyo BFG Michelin Nankang Federal
#9
Posted 12-15-2011 10:58 AM
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#10
Posted 12-15-2011 11:33 AM
But don't NOT do it just because people say it's a PITA. A lot of things are a PITA in racing, but you do all these little things and they add up. Let's talk about a very basic PITA item in racing: changing cross weight. You have to jack up one side of the car, turn both spring perches (the correct way and the same amount), then jack up the other side of the car, turn those spring perches, then go to both the front sway bar, loosen lock nuts, turn the coupling nut (as long as you have a left and right hand threaded coupling nut), remove the bind in the sway bar link, tighten the lock nuts, then do the same for the rear sway bar. Oh yeah, and this is all after you've set up the scale stands to be perfectly level.
That to me is a PITA. And how much time are you gaining based on that? But if you want the car to be better you do it. Same goes for Nitrogen, only it's a lot simpler, it can be done at home/shop at your leisure, and then you're done.
- john mueller and philstireservice like this
RJ Racing
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#11
Posted 12-15-2011 02:00 PM
With my 205/50/15 tires with regular air I would see on average (this is average) about 6 to 8 lb increase from cold to hot pressures, what range of change have you seen using the nitrogen?
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#12
Posted 12-15-2011 02:14 PM
Definitely worth doing if you value consistency and predictability in tire pressures. If your goal is only to be within 2 psi of your target, don't bother. With air we could only predict within maybe 1-1.5 psi of the target. Our first weekend with nitrogen and we were predicting within .5 psi. And now after 5 or 6 races, we're disappointed if we're not within .25 psi. Of course this goes along with a stringent recording of tire pressure/temp data.
But don't NOT do it just because people say it's a PITA. A lot of things are a PITA in racing, but you do all these little things and they add up. Let's talk about a very basic PITA item in racing: changing cross weight. You have to jack up one side of the car, turn both spring perches (the correct way and the same amount), then jack up the other side of the car, turn those spring perches, then go to both the front sway bar, loosen lock nuts, turn the coupling nut (as long as you have a left and right hand threaded coupling nut), remove the bind in the sway bar link, tighten the lock nuts, then do the same for the rear sway bar. Oh yeah, and this is all after you've set up the scale stands to be perfectly level.
That to me is a PITA. And how much time are you gaining based on that? But if you want the car to be better you do it. Same goes for Nitrogen, only it's a lot simpler, it can be done at home/shop at your leisure, and then you're done.
Are you trying to tell me you can tell the difference in tire pressures of .25#? Driver ability/skill/consistancy affects changes far more unpredictibility than using AIR. I set 20 cars in the mourning to the same pressure and after the first session I sample EVERY tire. What do ya thing that spread is?
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good
#13
Posted 12-15-2011 03:44 PM
8 psi
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230
#14
Posted 12-15-2011 08:00 PM
#15
Posted 12-15-2011 09:06 PM
V2 Motorsports
#16
Posted 12-15-2011 09:07 PM
+1A lot of things are a PITA in racing, but you do all these little things and they add up. Let's talk about a very basic PITA item in racing: changing cross weight.
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
#17
Posted 12-15-2011 11:42 PM
Royal PIA without much benifit. You have to COMPLETLY evacuate the air out of each tire before you put in the nitrogen. As was stated before its not the air expanding its the moisture in the air.
You have to mount them with nitrogen and make sure what you clean your wheels or tires with doesn't take away any of the benefit. That's where using a purge valve is handy though not allowed in SM. As said before, it's all those little pain in the ass things that add up to win races and championships. Most of us ain't gonna notice.
#18
Posted 12-16-2011 05:34 AM
You have to mount them with nitrogen and make sure what you clean your wheels or tires with doesn't take away any of the benefit. That's where using a purge valve is handy though not allowed in SM. As said before, it's all those little pain in the ass things that add up to win races and championships. Most of us ain't gonna notice.
Since I have not done this yet, my plan on the purge was, I have the TR motorsports rims from Tire Rack, It has two air valves in it i was going to connect the inlet to one and open the other side and hopefully displace the air with Nitrogen. Does that sound plausible?
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#19
Posted 12-16-2011 08:40 AM
Since I have not done this yet, my plan on the purge was, I have the TR motorsports rims from Tire Rack, It has two air valves in it i was going to connect the inlet to one and open the other side and hopefully displace the air with Nitrogen. Does that sound plausible?
Frank, a more common option is a little metal T shaped dealy bob that you screw onto the normal valve stem after you take the valve core out. The T shaped dealy bob has valve core end, normal air in end & air exit end. Using normal compressor air a vacum is created to suck air out of tire. More commonly called blocking the tire. The tire sides are actually sucked into the rim. Remove the T shaped dealy bob, insert valve core, fill with nitrogen. I guess the dealy bob would be called a blocking tool.
#20
Posted 12-16-2011 09:41 AM
Frank, a more common option is a little metal T shaped dealy bob that you screw onto the normal valve stem after you take the valve core out. The T shaped dealy bob has valve core end, normal air in end & air exit end. Using normal compressor air a vacum is created to suck air out of tire. More commonly called blocking the tire. The tire sides are actually sucked into the rim. Remove the T shaped dealy bob, insert valve core, fill with nitrogen. I guess the dealy bob would be called a blocking tool.
You can get said "dealy bob" from Myers Tire Supply.
http://philstireservice.com Enkei Team Dynamics The Miata Wheel Motegi Apex Wedsport Hoosier Toyo BFG Michelin Nankang Federal
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