33 replies to this topic

[Todd Tagget]

I'm rebuilding all of my calipers as I do my build. So my first question is how do you guys get the pistons out ?

Second question is what is your opinion on the E-brake ? lose it ? or keep it ? I've heard differing opinions

Thanks

[Tom Hampton]

Depends. Keeping it street legal... Gotta keep it. Race only... lose it. More importantly, lose the adjusters out of the rear calipers... or be prepared to check them for drag after every session.

I recommend buying a pair of rear calipers from Drago with the adjuster removed. I'm also a proponent of starting new on brakes rather than rebuild an unknown set. I went that route, at first. Then I had issues and sound up replacing everything except the hard lines. So, pay now or maybe pay later. For something as critical as brakes.... now is probably the wiser option.

[Tom Hampton]

Piston removal: you have two options that I know of.

1. Use compressed air in the fluid inlet port. This can be somewhat dramatic depending on the psi. Start low and work up to the pressure to push the cylinder free.

2. Get a helper to push the brake pedal while you have one caliper free. This is likely to make it mess with brake fluid.

[FTodaro]

I'm rebuilding all of my calipers as I do my build. So my first question is how do you guys get the pistons out ?

Thanks

[Glenn]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXcClOfFmlg

Any down side to NOT installing dust boots on rebuilds? Most real "racecars" do not use them.

[LarryKing]

Any upside?

[Glenn]

Any upside?

un sprung weight reduction

[Keith Andrews]

Agree with Tom on the E-brake, your call.

On the video piston removal, save your fingers and use a block of wood when you remove the caliper with compressed air. Mine pop out with enough force to do some real damage. I use the boots, with the off road driving I do on occasion I've had zero brake issues. The video boot technique is pretty much what I do, I extend it a little further past the end of the caliper making it oblong to seat the bottom then work around the side from there. Good luck.

[juliancates]

Depends. Keeping it street legal... Gotta keep it. Race only... lose it. More importantly, lose the adjusters out of the rear calipers... or be prepared to check them for drag after every session.

Are there any how-to's available for removing the rear adjusters, or is this proprietary information?

I'm also a proponent of starting new on brakes rather than rebuild an unknown set.

With front calipers being $39 at Autozone (I paid about $20 just for a seal kit on my old car...) and rears being $68, this makes it not so much a kick in the nuts just to start with new calipers, it would seem.

[Caveman-kwebb99]

Are there any how-to's available for removing the rear adjusters, or is this proprietary information?

It is pretty simple remove the bolt and crush washer from the caliper that covers the adjuster port remove the bleader valve. using the parking brake adjuster screw turn it manually pushing the piston out as far as you can by that method. Then pull the rubber back off the groove in the cylinder, then use air to push the piston rest of the way out.
Thread a slide hammer into the adjuster mechanism inside the piston holding piston in one hand and woking the slide hammer in the other it will eventually pop out. Slide the piston back into the dust sleve and re asemble. Alot easier than people think it is! be carefull not to tear the dust seals.

The easiest and best way I have found is to just send your calipers to East Street, and have him send you calipers that already have this done. They are much nicer than anything you will get at an Autozone. They are powder coated and rear adjuster disabled ready for installation!

[LarryKing]

There's a golfer in NE Ohio who showed Drago the ebrake disable procedure. I believe he still rebuilds caliper when not hanging out with Big Bertha. Said golfer also described the process on the 'other' SM website.

[FTodaro]

The easiest and best way I have found is to just send your calipers to East Street, and have him send you calipers that already have this done. They are much nicer than anything you will get at an Autozone. They are powder coated and rear adjuster disabled ready for installation!

That is what I did on the rear's, I was going to attempt the e brake removal and looked at the how too and decided to just order the East Street version, Jim polishes the pistons and gives you a pretty nice product.

I did attempt a few times to rebuild my fronts but I do not have the nack, they always ended up leaking.

[Bench Racer]

Are there any how-to's available for removing the rear adjusters, or is this proprietary information?

A past regular poster Mark Bennett (aka the golfer) brought this forward on the old site. A search might find you somthing. For an immediate sort of show & tell go to http://www.miata.net/garage/ebrake/index.html . In the last photo the adjuster parts are layed out. In the lower left hand corner of picture is a round wire "C" clip. This "C" clip fits between the two sprockets of the adjuster (same picture) & a circular groove in the piston. When your puling the adjuster out of the inside of the piston this "C" clip must be forced out (reduced in outside diameter) of the piston circular groove.

[Go Time Racing]

After you dis-able the parking brake... I'll sell you some magical brake fluid worth another 2 h.p.

[Jim Drago]

After you dis-able the parking brake... I'll sell you some magical brake fluid worth another 2 h.p.

How much is it?

I would never run with the e-brake hardware though.. I don't see an upside.

[chris haldeman]

How much is it?

+1

[Ron Alan]

+1

Lost me...but then again always get lost after a nice 15% Zin

Somewhat related question...1.6 and 1.8 brake brackets, rotors,and pads are different. Are all calipers actually the same?? Also related to brake rotors...stock have a minimum thickness stamped on them. Any specific issues with them when you get close to this min or beyond?

[Keith Andrews]

Are there any how-to's available for removing the rear adjusters, or is this proprietary information?

I did mine last year and can't remember exactly how I did it. I didn't use a slide hammer. I used the threads of the adjuster itself with another bolt to force the pieces apart. As I recall it was kind of similar to the way a hub puller works in concept. I think the threads on the caliper adjuster are reverse and my bolt with the same or similar threads worked together to get to come apart. I'm going to do some more calipers later this month and will post my technique. It did not require a lot of physical effort. Sorry my memory is not clearer on this.

[LarryKing]

Also related to brake rotors...stock have a minimum thickness stamped on them. Any specific issues with them when you get close to this min or beyond?

Why would you - new rotors are $15.

[Keith Novak]

Why would you - new rotors are $15.

I get mine done since brand new, with new pads I've found sometimes it's a snug fit and the pads drag even with the pistons fully retracted. The machine shop takes just a hair off for me. $8 per rotor. Granted he though I was a bit daft at first, then he realized, "Because race car."