24 replies to this topic

[juliancates]

So I got new rear bearings pressed in. Now I need to remove the old inner bearing race from the hub so I can reinstall the hub into the knuckle.

Right now, it looks like this (not mine, but a picture I found):



Is there a trick to getting this off? I've got it "started" by using a hammer and chisel, but it's not going very far. Kind of hard to get a good angle on it. What do you guys use?

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

I used a dremel with a small cutoff wheel. That allowed me to cut it most of the way, then a chisel split it the rest. It's kind of a PIA.

[jschwarz]

I just did the same thing and am also stuck with the same problem. Thought about notching the race with a grinder to get something for a puller

[Chris Adams]

In a situation where I couldn't get a claw/puller on the race I've dremeled a line through the race and used a chisle to break the race off.

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

On, second look... with that amount of rust, I would just replace the hub. A friend of mine had a rear hub crack 80% of the way around. It was about that rusted as well.

[davew]

I use a big chisel to act as a wedge between the hub and race. Once you get a gap, you can use a puller or press to seperate them.

Always look for burrs after seperation. File them down if they appear.

Once the race is removed inspect the surface of the hub. This is kinda hard to explain on a computer. On the hub, there will be a slight mark where the inboard and outboard "inner bearings" meat. If this line is large enough to be felt with a fingernail, the hub is junk. FYI, generally, the harder it is to seperate, the more likely the hub is bad.

OR:

Most part stores will press the bearing out and in for a small fee, if you buy the bearing from them.

Dave

[juliancates]

On, second look... with that amount of rust, I would just replace the hub. A friend of mine had a rear hub crack 80% of the way around. It was about that rusted as well.

Yeah, that's not my actual hub, just a picture I found on the internet as I'm not at home right now to take a picture of the real one. Mine looks a heck of a lot better than that, thankfully!

I use a big chisel to act as a wedge between the hub and race. Once you get a gap, you can use a puller or press to seperate them.

Always look for burrs after seperation. File them down if they appear.

Once the race is removed inspect the surface of the hub. This is kinda hard to explain on a computer. On the hub, there will be a slight mark where the inboard and outboard "inner bearings" meat. If this line is large enough to be felt with a fingernail, the hub is junk. FYI, generally, the harder it is to seperate, the more likely the hub is bad.

OR:

Most part stores will press the bearing out and in for a small fee, if you buy the bearing from them.

Dave

Thanks Dave! I'll keep at it with the chisel and see what kind of separation I can get, then see if I can pick up a puller to use for the rest. Good to know about the line where the races meet. I'll be sure to check for that as well.

[Glenn]

So I got new rear bearings pressed in. Now I need to remove the old inner bearing race from the hub so I can reinstall the hub into the knuckle.

Right now, it looks like this (not mine, but a picture I found):



Is there a trick to getting this off? I've got it "started" by using a hammer and chisel, but it's not going very far. Kind of hard to get a good angle on it. What do you guys use?

I paid my shop $50.00 to press out the axles and install new bearings and seals

[LarryKing]

I paid my shop $50.00 to press out the axles and install new bearings and seals

Yep.

[dstevens]

It's a press job. A 50 spot is pretty steep to press off a single race even if they did press the new bearing though it seems they did more than a single race. I paid 89 for my press and had some bearing separators already.
Like Wheeler says, a good, full service auto parts store will be able to do that. Or if you're in Vegas come on over and I'll do it for you...

I got this one... http://www.harborfre...ress-33497.html
I should have got this one... http://www.harborfre...ress-32879.html

I really wanted this one but freight was almost as much as the press... http://www.vansanten...ame_presses.htm

Shane at Baileigh is giving deals on this one... http://www.baileighi...lic/hsp-10h.php



hub press 1 by Dave Stevens, on Flickr

[juliancates]

I have that same 12-ton press. Used that to press out the old bearings and press the new ones in, no problem. How would I set it up to press this race off the hub, though? What key component am I missing?

[dstevens]

Bearing separator. Watch out for the HF press plates. Swag Off Road has some replacements. http://swagoffroad.c...ess_Plates.html

I had a hard time with the 12 ton, which is why I should have gotten at least a 20. Depending on the shape of the part you might need to take it to a 20 ton. A HF 12 is probably less than 10 real world and the 20 is likely 15 or so. The Dakes and Baileighs are what they say they are, but cost a bunch more.

Here's what a bearing separator looks like. Wheeler's instructions are what to do, though I use emery cloth to smooth instead of a file.

Attached Files

•  bearing separator.jpg   87.29KB   10 downloads

[Jim Boemler]

Also watch out for the HF bearing separator -- total junk, made of case-hardened cheddar cheese. These need to have thin edges, and be HARD, or they just get chewed up.

[Glenn]

It's a press job. A 50 spot is pretty steep to press off a single race even if they did press the new bearing though it seems they did more than a single race. I paid 89 for my press and had some bearing separators already.
Like Wheeler says, a good, full service auto parts store will be able to do that. Or if you're in Vegas come on over and I'll do it for you...

I got this one... http://www.harborfre...ress-33497.html
I should have got this one... http://www.harborfre...ress-32879.html

I really wanted this one but freight was almost as much as the press... http://www.vansanten...ame_presses.htm

Shane at Baileigh is giving deals on this one... http://www.baileighi...lic/hsp-10h.php



hub press 1 by Dave Stevens, on Flickr

Reread my post! I also had the NEVER BEFORE removed axles pressed out. Well worth the $$ as my time and lack of equip/space/tooling is worth FAR more!

[dstevens]

Reread my post! I also had the NEVER BEFORE removed axles pressed out. Well worth the $$ as my time and lack of equip/space/tooling is worth FAR more!

Steady there big fella, not casting any aspersions. If you want to job that out that is Kool and the Gang with me. I do more than just press SM hubs. Hell, I haven't done anything but roll the chick car tub around on dollies for a month or more. Right now it's in the way. I really need to finish that thing.... The last press job was helping re gear a GM 10 bolt and pressing race stubs in to GM metric hubs.

If you only use it a couple times a year might not make sense, particularly if you can't store it. Though, if you use it a couple of times a week it makes more sense to have one.

[juliancates]

If you only use it a couple times a year might not make sense, particularly if you can't store it. Though, if you use it a couple of times a week it makes more sense to have one.

For me personally, if it helps me learn a new skill and involves me owning a new tool, I'll usually opt to do it myself. Yeah, it might take a lot longer to get done the first time, but the next time will be a lot faster and I'll already have the tools I need. The HF press isn't the best by a long shot... but it has more than paid for itself in the last couple of years.

[dstevens]

For me personally, if it helps me learn a new skill and involves me owning a new tool, I'll usually opt to do it myself. Yeah, it might take a lot longer to get done the first time, but the next time will be a lot faster and I'll already have the tools I need. The HF press isn't the best by a long shot... but it has more than paid for itself in the last couple of years.

The hot tip mod on those is to replace the ram once it wears out with either a stronger bottle jack or a hand operated ram.

[Newton]

small score with a cutoff tool then a few good solid hits with a chisel should split it. another option is to heat it.......and i do mean heat....... which will expend the race on the hub, usually making it fairly loose and a few taps with the hammer will convince it to jump off.

[Scottie]

I have a question to add to this topic. For the race season, I got some fresh front hubs w/bearings, as the 19 year old ones should be replaced

I know that guys buy the rear wheel bearings, and have them pressed in. But I also want to replace my old ratty/rusty rear hubs. For some reason, I am having trouble finding them online together. Do I need to purchase the hub and bearing separately for the rears? Or is there somewhere that sells them put together, like the fronts?

Thanks guys!

[dstevens]

The parts generally come separate as parts but I'm sure any of the several full service SM shops that hang about these parts will not only sell you a new, completed assembly but larger studs for the rears. Drago, Collins, Wheeler. Any of the usual suspects can hook up. I like doing it myself because of the perception I save time and money. It's very likely in the long term I save neither.....