19 replies to this topic

[Sphinx]

For years, I depended on the Ford PM-1 brake fluid. It was great stuff but is now PM-1-C, made in china. It may be just fine, but since I've used up my old stock, I want to see if there are other economical options out there that work well. In particular, Advance Auto is currently selling their wearever house brand on a BOGO deal ($1.80/pint). I bet someone here has tried it and can opine on whether it is worth a crap for a racing application. I did do a little background checking and it is Made in the USA by a company called Warren Unilube in Arkansas (got that info from the MSDS).

I recently tried some in our family winter beater, and it was definitely more "watery" than the Ford stuff. Of course, that doesn't mean anything.

[Greg Kimble]

I have not tried it in my racecar, but I think your main concern will be the dry boiling point of the fluid. Most racing fluids are around 600 degrees, do you know what the boling point is of the Advanced Auto fluid? We use Motul and have not had any issues but it is relatively expensive. Dave Wheeler recommends the Castrol LMA it is reasonably priced, but I cannot find a local source for it.

Just my 2 cents

Greg

[Greg Kimble]

From the Advance website, the wet boiling point is 284 degrees, for the Motul the wet boiling point is 420 degrees. How much heat is transfered to the piston and to the fluid? I am not sure, but I would expect that the thinner the pads the more heat transfer.

Greg

[Tom Sager]

ATE Super Blue. It's a little more expensive than the stuff you'll find at your local parts store but it works great. I think a lot of people use this.

• Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F
• Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F

In our cars, any DOT4 fluid should work well.

[Keith Andrews]

I have had no problem with this Valvoline fluid $7.99 for 32oz. You can find it most any auto parts store. Dry boiling point is around 480F.

[MPR22]

Just switched from the valvoline to Motul. I boiled some of the Valvoline at the last race.

[Jim Drago]

I used Valvoline Synpower for years until they discontinued it. They replaced it with a synthetic DOT 3/DOT 4 fluid that looks to be the same stuff. Valvoline's website shows that it has the same dry and wet equilibrium reflux boiling points (503°F/343°F) and viscosity (@ -40C 1800 max) as the old Synpower stuff. It haven't noticed any change in performance and have never experienced brake fade in a Miata.

Jim

[James York]

Just switched from the valvoline to Motul. I boiled some of the Valvoline at the last race.

Also a Motul user for years. Excellent dry boiling point and very good wet, I think only behind Castrol SRF. (It's been a while since I shopped and compared). Reasonable cost.

[Jim Boemler]

Also used Valvoline for years, with no problems, and I'm lazy about changing it.

[Sphinx]

I used Valvoline Synpower for years until they discontinued it. They replaced it with a synthetic DOT 3/DOT 4 fluid that looks to be the same stuff. Valvoline's website shows that it has the same dry and wet equilibrium reflux boiling points (503°F/343°F) and viscosity (@ -40C 1800 max) as the old Synpower stuff. It haven't noticed any change in performance and have never experienced brake fade in a Miata.

Jim

From their website, they have two different specs. Both show wet boiling at 311F, but on their website it shows "up to 480" dry. If you download the .pdf specs, it shows 446. I couldn't find a reference on their site for the numbers you cited.

If anyone cares, I just noticed that Advance has it on sale for $3.20/pint. If you combine with one of their 40% off codes, you can get it down to $1.92/pint. (shameless plug, if you need coupon codes, go to my website where I catalog them).

[davew]

Anyone from CenDiv knows how hard Blaclhawk is on brakes. 5 stomp on the brakes corners every lap. I use Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Absorbing), the baby brother of SRF (Special Race Fluid) in all my SMs and have never had a fluid related issue. If it can survive Blackhawk, it will survive anywhere

Nothing against Motul or super blue/brown. But why spend the money if you do not need to. I have never tried the Valvoline, so I have no opinion. Imagine that !!!!!!!

Dave

[Qik Nip]

I used Valvoline Synpower for years until they discontinued it. They replaced it with a synthetic DOT 3/DOT 4 fluid that looks to be the same stuff. I haven't noticed any change in performance and have never experienced brake fade in a Miata.
Jim

Like Jim, I've used Valvoline Synpower for years without a single brake fade issue in my SM's. I'd used Motul in my track Corvette (AP brakes) because the heat issues were big. But stopping 2,300 pounds from 115 MPH versus 3,200 from 165 is a big difference. I have several unopened $35 pint bottles of Motul on the shelf, but IMHO we just don't need exotic brake fluids.
Rick

[tony senese]

Like Jim, I've used Valvoline Synpower for years without a single brake fade issue in my SM's. I'd used Motul in my track Corvette (AP brakes) because the heat issues were big. But stopping 2,300 pounds from 115 MPH versus 3,200 from 165 is a big difference. I have several unopened $35 pint bottles of Motul on the shelf, but IMHO we just don't need exotic brake fluids.
Rick

C'mon Rick, you never use your brakes!!!!

[Qik Nip]

C'mon Rick, you never use your brakes!!!!

Tony:
Good point. The less they're used, the better the racin! Anyway, I figure why waste expensive pads when I can scrub off speed on your back bumper!
Rick

[G-Man]

Anyone use the ATE Super Blue? Thoughts and opinions on the ATE fluid? (If it matters, I'm in a 1985 Rx-7 in Improved Touring-A.) Thank you...

[Yosh]

I switch back and forth between Castrol GT LMA and ATE Super Blue. Makes getting a full flush/bleed easier to tell because of the color difference.

I don't think I've experienced a brake fade in any of the SMs. (have run Hawk Blues, Carbotechs, and PFC 97s)

[Killian]

Anyone use the ATE Super Blue? Thoughts and opinions on the ATE fluid? (If it matters, I'm in a 1985 Rx-7 in Improved Touring-A.) Thank you...

My dad and I use it in our cars. I like the ability to swap it with the gold colored ATE Type 200 to see when I have all the old fluid out during an annual flush. We just bleed between race weekends. It's ~$15 a liter.

[SaulSpeedwell]

Some guy you know might use panda ejaculate and not report any issues, but fluid fade doesn't happen in SMs unless you have dihydrogen monoxide in your lines. Use whatever brake fluid you like.

[Cy Peake]

I like the ability to swap it with the gold colored ATE Type 200 to see when I have all the old fluid out during an annual flush.

I do the same. This season it's the super blue's turn.

[Maniac motorsports12]

Anyone use the ATE Super Blue? Thoughts and opinions on the ATE fluid? (If it matters, I'm in a 1985 Rx-7 in Improved Touring-A.) Thank you...

Been using it for the last 4 years. A bit on the expensive side, but I have had no problem at all.