Motor change question
#1
Posted 01-14-2011 06:57 PM
How difficult is it to just pull the motor and then reinstall it compared to pulling both.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#2
Posted 01-14-2011 07:30 PM
Its super simple to just pull both, once you get the new engine bolted to the trans it slides right back in.I am going to swap the motor out of my 1999, with a crate motor. The book I am reading about the topic says that It is easier to either pull the trans with the motor or drop the trans first. The process of re installing the motor with the trans in place is difficult to get it aligned up again. Just wondered if it was that big of a deal, as I was wanting to leave the trans in place and just swap the motor.
How difficult is it to just pull the motor and then reinstall it compared to pulling both.
#3
Posted 01-14-2011 07:36 PM
I pull the motor with the trans. Set it on the floor with some blocks of wood to help level it out. It does take a few minutes with a load leveler to keep raising/lowering and tilting the motor, but I've dropped the trans first and wouldn't do it that way again. It's really only about 15 minutes or so solo in or out.
Granted I have a '95 but they're not THAT much different. I do remove the header and the steering column but that's pretty quick once you resolve yourself to the fact you're going to do the head-first into the footwell operation to remove the steering column.
#4
Posted 01-14-2011 07:51 PM
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#5
Posted 01-14-2011 08:10 PM
I have a floor lift with a load leveler, I am just not sure I can lift both the trans and the motor high enough to get them both to clear the the bumper. Are you using a floor hoist type or do you have a ceiling mount type. I will put both together if I can clear the car with them.
I don't have a lift. I get the car up about 20 inches or so on my big jackstands to give room for me on the creeper under the car, and your standard 2 ton harbor fright engine hoist. The important thing I learned doing it that way is don't have the front end of the car too close to the garage door. (I don't have a huge garage.) If it's too close to the door, I can't back the hoist up enough before the door gets in the way, and if I roll the door up, it leaves very little clearance up above for the hoist arm. If you watch your clearances, it's not too hard with a standard 7' high garage door and probably 6' of clearance to the door to maneuver the hoist. I keep my load leveler well lubed because there's lots of leveling going on. Move a few inches, look where everything sits, change the angle, repeat as necessary.
If I had a lift, my first thought would be drop the front subframe, then drop the engine rather than lift it, but not having one, I don't know what tools it would take, and whether it's actually easier.
#6
Posted 01-14-2011 08:19 PM
#7
Posted 01-14-2011 08:32 PM
Thanks Keith, I think I am going to give it a go pulling both out. everything I have read says its a B%8ch to put the motor back in and align it if you don't pull the trans too. I think I have the room to get the hoist out in front of the car.BTW- doing it that way I'm trying to clear the hood latch, not the bumper. I take the hood off and the radiator out but otherwise I just angle lift and pull.
How critical is it to pull the steering column? Have not seen that recommended.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#8
Posted 01-14-2011 08:39 PM
Thanks Keith, I think I am going to give it a go pulling both out. everything I have read says its a B%8ch to put the motor back in and align it if you don't pull the trans too. I think I have the room to get the hoist out in front of the car.
How critical is it to pull the steering column? Have not seen that recommended.
You don't need to touch the steering column. With my harbor freight engine hoist, i find it easier to take the bumper off in order to get directly over the engine.
If you don't have a leveler, someone putting some pressure on the trans to get it out of the shift boot hole and also getting angle over the sway bar is very effective.
Once you do it once, it's pretty simple.
#9
Posted 01-14-2011 08:46 PM
You don't need to touch the steering column. With my harbor freight engine hoist, i find it easier to take the bumper off in order to get directly over the engine.
If you don't have a leveler, someone putting some pressure on the trans to get it out of the shift boot hole and also getting angle over the sway bar is very effective.
Once you do it once, it's pretty simple.
I think I found "remove the steering column" in the Miata enthusiasts manual. Quick and not horribly difficult unless you're claustraphobic and it does take one extra thing to clunk into out of the way. Haven't done it without but sounds like it's not necessary.
#10
Posted 01-15-2011 12:18 AM
I think I found "remove the steering column" in the Miata enthusiasts manual. Quick and not horribly difficult unless you're claustraphobic and it does take one extra thing to clunk into out of the way. Haven't done it without but sounds like it's not necessary.
Put it this way:
I've never thought to take it out because it doesn't get in the way. I suppose it would give you more side to side room but once you take either motor mount off, you shouldn't need much more than that.
I can see how it would be a convenience though...
#11
Posted 01-15-2011 04:10 PM
-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing
2011 + 2013 NER STU Champion
#12
Posted 01-16-2011 05:37 PM
We will see how things go when we put the motor back in.
I did run into one bump in the road. The crate motor has a real small threaded shaft for the oil filter to thread onto. and the old motor has a real long threaded shaft that the water cooling device threads onto. I assume that is what it is anyway, the oil filter threads into it. I need to figure out how to swap this out on the crate motor.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
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