6 replies to this topic

[RazerX]

Ok, for a while when the engine is hot the starter seams to struggle a bit to rotate the engine. But picks up speed and has always worked. Rarely it will click (relay click not a heavy solenoid click), but turning the key on and off again seems to make it work.

However yesterday after sitting overnight it refused to turn over(cold engine). I did hear a relay click, sounds like either under the dash or in the engine bay in front of the driver. Voltage is 12.5 volts. I have a remote started I use for compression checking, I hook that up to the positive power on the starter solenoid (at least I think that is starter solenoid -located next to the starter) and the little tab also on the solenoid. Turns over perfectly fine. Disconnect it, reconnect the smaller wire and try the key again. Nothing but that click from a relay. I leave come back six hours later try the key and it magically works perfectly fine.

Need some ideas, as it appears the starter has power, it appears the key/lock assembly is fine as the relay click each time i turn the key. Maybe the harness wire to the little tab on the solenoid? I hate intermittent electrical issues but this seems to be progessively getting worse.

Thanks in advance

[Kevin Anderson]

Does the car start with a jump, sometimes the battery is not good, has the volts but lacks the amps,
If battery is good, and the wires are good then change the starter

[Caveman-kwebb99]

check your ground

[RazerX]

Battery is not a problem, because the remote starter turns the car over fine.

Which ground? I am guessing the one from the exhaust side of engine to the shelf by the the brake master cylinder? I am thinking for replacing the OEM one but that one was cleaned and put on bear metal (all sanded).

BTW, I realized Mazda call the the solenoid a 'magnetic switch' which is coupled to the starter motor.

Have others experienced this phenomenon? To know if it is the more commonly the harness or the magmetic motor fails to work correctly from heat cycles?

[davew]

Sounds like you have either a bad ignition switch, it turns on the electrical system, but does not send power to the samll wire in the starter.

OR

You have a bad clutch safety switch, the power gets from the ignition switch, but stops at the clutch switch, never getting to the starter solinoid

Dave

[DES4]

Unless you check the voltage at the solenoid (at the lead that is energized when the ignition is in the "start" position), you will never know for sure. You need to back-probe it (leave the wire connected to the solenoid, inserting your probe into the back of the connector) while attempting to crank the motor; do not check it disconnected from the solenoid. Without the load of the solenoid, a high-resistance supply circuit could appear to have 12 volts present.

However, as Dave pointed out, it's likely a failing ignition switch, based on the fact that all appears well at times. The clicking you hear is likely relays that control non-essential circuits shutting off during crank. Grounds should be okay, as you stated that supplying 12V directly to solenoid seemed to work fine. This does not mean that you might not have a relay failing or starter interrupt switch (such as a clutch switch) that could be failing or misadjusted, either. First see what's going on at the solenoid energized lead.

Without checking it at the solenoid as described above, you'll only be guessing. Starter circuits are extremely simple, and take only a few moments to properly diagnose.

[RazerX]

Thanks All,

Diagnostics will have to wait becuase it magically works again. This is a bit unsettling as i know the problem isn't solved. I tried the car the next morning and it fired up like no problem. I have think it is the ignition switch since nothing else changed over night, other than the key turnig..