
Brakes
#1
Posted 05-17-2012 08:32 AM

Calipers .... New? Remand? Blue printed? I am a back 1/3rd of the pack new driver, but wonder how much of a difference this makes versus cost $40 all the way to $200.
#2
Posted 05-17-2012 08:41 AM

We sell calipers.. But I will tell you whether you get them from me, rebuild yourself or but at napa or Autozone. Going through the calipers is a very good idea. Most all calipers drag and need to be gone through far more often than most believe. At least clean and grease the slides and tighten the pins often.
Are calipers going to move you from the back third to middle third, NO.. Nothing is that simple. But my position is and has always been to build and drive the best car we can afford to try and take it out of the equation as much as possible.
Good luck, do it little by little
Jim
- Andy L likes this
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080














#3
Posted 05-17-2012 10:07 AM

Brakes are as much a safety item as anything else. My safety as much as yours. I would NEVER drive a car that had marginal brakes, much less a set of calipers that have 100k miles and never been rebuilt.
I never use the set screws and don't know anybody that does.
You will never go fast if you do not trust your brakes
Dave
- Glenn and Andy L like this
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230





#4
Posted 05-17-2012 10:15 AM

#5
Posted 05-17-2012 10:29 AM

The green stuff that most auto parts sell works well. The trick is to keep them lubed but NOT over lubed! Also keep all the pins TIGHT!!!!What is the recommended grease for the pins?
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#6
Posted 05-17-2012 10:33 AM

#7
Posted 05-17-2012 10:37 AM

+1 works good too!What I use...
http://www.napaonlin...1351_0361070610
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#8
Posted 05-17-2012 11:14 AM


- dstevens likes this



#9
Posted 05-17-2012 11:32 AM

Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube
An environmentally-friendly, green, nonmelting, synthetic lubricant. It is formulated to lubricate under the most adverse brake conditions, assuring that critical caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons remain lubricated throughout pad life.
Suggested Applications: Caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons



#10
Posted 05-17-2012 12:14 PM

http://www.crcindust...px?S=Y&PN=05351
I honestly don't know the differences in these products so if anyone cares to provide any educational context around them, please do.


#11
Posted 05-17-2012 12:42 PM

William Keeling

#12
Posted 05-17-2012 01:03 PM

#13
Posted 05-17-2012 02:17 PM

Sewing machine oil – I use the singer brand – it is great for brakes, hubs, engine, trans and diffs. And it is green – it is made from whale blubber.
The back side of your car will be happy I used sewing machine oil on my brakes.



#14
Posted 05-17-2012 07:38 PM

Ron
RAmotorsports


#15
Posted 05-17-2012 09:17 PM

#16
Posted 05-18-2012 01:40 AM

Are you suggesting the FSM is incorrect in specing lube on the caliper pins?
#17
Posted 05-18-2012 01:45 AM

I got a reminder last weekend how important it is to make sure the brakes are in good working order. This happened at the end of a straight in the last lap of a 12 hour race in a Nissan I was driving. Fortunately a had a long grassy field to come down from 100+ The brakes had been shuddering a bit since hr 6 or so. The piston is welded to the backing plate.
Plasma cutter, big ass hammer and a welder and you'll be back in business. Really though, that's ugly. Ten years ago at racing school one of the first things they said was along the line of if you can't stop, it doesn't matter how fast you go. Glad you were able to survive that.
#18
Posted 05-18-2012 06:57 AM

Just a couple of quick things to add from a tech's POV, not just miatas. First, the bracket to hub bolts should be very tight, the caliper to bracket bolts are NOT supposed to be as tight.....you will break bolts very quickly. Also, grease should NOT be used between the pads and the polished metal guides on the bracket. dirt, pad dust, small gravel will all get caught in the grase which will cause the grease to turn into a paste which will eventually stop the movement of the pads. so the pads will eventually get wedged, probably in an uneven way so that you get the wedge pad effect.
The points that FAIL on a Miata the most are the rear pins. They are allen type and MUST me lock tighted and checked OFTEN. Second point of failure is bracket to hub. Again most lockk tight at a minimum check each race day. Lube the pins and clean out old nasty lube oftin for smooth operation and no binding. Also there is a REALLY small hole in the end of the rubber bushing that allows air to enter when the pin slides, keep these OPEN or replace!
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#19
Posted 05-18-2012 08:11 PM

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