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#1
plane

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Does anyone ever use the set screws on the front rotors? Some have the countersunk holes others do not.

Calipers .... New? Remand? Blue printed? I am a back 1/3rd of the pack new driver, but wonder how much of a difference this makes versus cost $40 all the way to $200.

#2
Jim Drago

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I don't use the set screws on rotors, most don't.

We sell calipers.. But I will tell you whether you get them from me, rebuild yourself or but at napa or Autozone. Going through the calipers is a very good idea. Most all calipers drag and need to be gone through far more often than most believe. At least clean and grease the slides and tighten the pins often.

Are calipers going to move you from the back third to middle third, NO.. Nothing is that simple. But my position is and has always been to build and drive the best car we can afford to try and take it out of the equation as much as possible.

Good luck, do it little by little

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#3
davew

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Jim said it very well, I will add to it.

Brakes are as much a safety item as anything else. My safety as much as yours. I would NEVER drive a car that had marginal brakes, much less a set of calipers that have 100k miles and never been rebuilt.

I never use the set screws and don't know anybody that does.

You will never go fast if you do not trust your brakes

Dave
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#4
HoneyBadger - BrianW

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What is the recommended grease for the pins?
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#5
Glenn

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What is the recommended grease for the pins?

The green stuff that most auto parts sell works well. The trick is to keep them lubed but NOT over lubed! Also keep all the pins TIGHT!!!!

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#6
Zauskycop

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What I use...

http://www.napaonlin...1351_0361070610
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#7
Glenn

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What I use...

http://www.napaonlin...1351_0361070610

+1 works good too!

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#8
Keith Novak

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I got a reminder last weekend how important it is to make sure the brakes are in good working order. This happened at the end of a straight in the last lap of a 12 hour race in a Nissan I was driving. Fortunately a had a long grassy field to come down from 100+ The brakes had been shuddering a bit since hr 6 or so. The piston is welded to the backing plate.

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#9
Bench Racer

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IMHJ, the key to brake lub is that it's synthetic & higher temp capable. Non-synethic based lubes do not play well with the rubber parts.

Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube

An environmentally-friendly, green, nonmelting, synthetic lubricant. It is formulated to lubricate under the most adverse brake conditions, assuring that critical caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons remain lubricated throughout pad life.

Suggested Applications: Caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons
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#10
Alberto

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I've been using this stuff:
http://www.crcindust...px?S=Y&PN=05351

I honestly don't know the differences in these products so if anyone cares to provide any educational context around them, please do. :)
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#11
William Keeling

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Sewing machine oil – I use the singer brand – it is great for brakes, hubs, engine, trans and diffs. And it is green – it is made from whale blubber.

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#12
plane

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Thanks.

#13
HoneyBadger - BrianW

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Sewing machine oil – I use the singer brand – it is great for brakes, hubs, engine, trans and diffs. And it is green – it is made from whale blubber.


The back side of your car will be happy I used sewing machine oil on my brakes. :)
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#14
Ron Alan

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I just used the CV2(redline) because it was there...any problem with that??

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#15
Newton

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Just a couple of quick things to add from a tech's POV, not just miatas. First, the bracket to hub bolts should be very tight, the caliper to bracket bolts are NOT supposed to be as tight.....you will break bolts very quickly. Also, grease should NOT be used between the pads and the polished metal guides on the bracket. dirt, pad dust, small gravel will all get caught in the grase which will cause the grease to turn into a paste which will eventually stop the movement of the pads. so the pads will eventually get wedged, probably in an uneven way so that you get the wedge pad effect.

#16
dstevens

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I'm not sure what you're saying Newton. I just did my front brakes and they did require some TLC to reduce pad drag. The FSM calls for lithium grease on the caliper pins and the new Altrom/NAPA calipers I bought have a shit load in them. Are you suggesting not to use it? In stock cars and karts we didn't lube any of the calipers. Different design.

Are you suggesting the FSM is incorrect in specing lube on the caliper pins?

#17
dstevens

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I got a reminder last weekend how important it is to make sure the brakes are in good working order. This happened at the end of a straight in the last lap of a 12 hour race in a Nissan I was driving. Fortunately a had a long grassy field to come down from 100+ The brakes had been shuddering a bit since hr 6 or so. The piston is welded to the backing plate.


Plasma cutter, big ass hammer and a welder and you'll be back in business. Really though, that's ugly. Ten years ago at racing school one of the first things they said was along the line of if you can't stop, it doesn't matter how fast you go. Glad you were able to survive that.

#18
Glenn

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Just a couple of quick things to add from a tech's POV, not just miatas. First, the bracket to hub bolts should be very tight, the caliper to bracket bolts are NOT supposed to be as tight.....you will break bolts very quickly. Also, grease should NOT be used between the pads and the polished metal guides on the bracket. dirt, pad dust, small gravel will all get caught in the grase which will cause the grease to turn into a paste which will eventually stop the movement of the pads. so the pads will eventually get wedged, probably in an uneven way so that you get the wedge pad effect.


The points that FAIL on a Miata the most are the rear pins. They are allen type and MUST me lock tighted and checked OFTEN. Second point of failure is bracket to hub. Again most lockk tight at a minimum check each race day. Lube the pins and clean out old nasty lube oftin for smooth operation and no binding. Also there is a REALLY small hole in the end of the rubber bushing that allows air to enter when the pin slides, keep these OPEN or replace!

Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
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#19
Newton

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the caliper PINS should definitely be greased. i mean that where the PADS slide in the bracket should not be greased.




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