Need some help
#1
Posted 05-29-2012 06:49 PM
http://annarbor.crai...3044651760.html
This one is near me, looks nice, has 180k miles and engine and trans rebuilt 40k ago
Any info would be great fully aprechited
Thanks Dominic
#2
Posted 05-29-2012 07:08 PM
#3
Posted 05-29-2012 07:27 PM
#4
Posted 05-29-2012 07:39 PM
#5
Posted 05-29-2012 08:00 PM
I agree with all the comments - you can get a good used car for a lot less. A group of us recently ran Chump car in what was actually a pretty decent 94 Miata which was bought for just under $500 and would be a great Spec Miata in the future. Keep looking or buy a used SM cheap. Also consider buying a salvaged car - after all you are never going back on the street. Jim Drago (East Street Motors in Memphis) might be able to help although I'm sure he does not appreciate me suggesting $500 as a market point
cnj
- dstevens likes this
#6
Posted 05-29-2012 08:12 PM
You gotta love it when people are telling you not to buy a car because it looks TOO nice. Welcome to Spec Miata racing.
I agree with all the comments - you can get a good used car for a lot less. A group of us recently ran Chump car in what was actually a pretty decent 94 Miata which was bought for just under $500 and would be a great Spec Miata in the future. Keep looking or buy a used SM cheap. Also consider buying a salvaged car - after all you are never going back on the street. Jim Drago (East Street Motors in Memphis) might be able to help although I'm sure he does not appreciate me suggesting $500 as a market point
cnj
Criag was forced to say just under $500 because of its Chump status. I have sold cars in much worse condition for over $1,500. Look hard and you can find a 99 for about 2 to 2.5 K. If they say it got hot, it means engine is toast.
- Alberto likes this
#7
Posted 05-29-2012 08:55 PM
Criag was forced to say just under $500 because of its Chump status. I have sold cars in much worse condition for over $1,500. Look hard and you can find a 99 for about 2 to 2.5 K. If they say it got hot, it means engine is toast.
Cynic
#8
Posted 05-29-2012 09:56 PM
Just bought a spare engine and tranny with 130k miles for $350
#9
Posted 05-30-2012 05:49 AM
#10
Posted 05-30-2012 08:20 AM
#11
Posted 05-30-2012 08:22 AM
--because someone commented that we should all post our names, and not be anonymous. I agree.
#12
Posted 05-30-2012 08:51 AM
Dave
- Glenn and Alberto like this
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230
#13
Posted 05-30-2012 11:33 AM
Car was posted on RacingJunk.com yesterday
#14
Posted 05-30-2012 12:05 PM
1990
http://chicago.craig...3045591460.html
1999
http://chicago.craig...3045589299.html
#15
Posted 05-30-2012 06:53 PM
Thanks Again
Dominic
#16
Posted 05-30-2012 07:25 PM
#17
Posted 05-30-2012 08:02 PM
Unless you already are well-versed on what it takes to build your own car, you'll likely make critical and costly mistakes that can be frustrating the first time out. A lot of unfinished racecars have gotten their start that way. You'll have to sort the car out and deal with issues that will arise once you're past the build stage, and unless you're reasonably experienced in at least a couple of areas, you'll find yourself paying someone to get the car working correctly.
Look around at the racetrack and pay attention to how the better cars are screwed together; don't buy a used-up car or someone else's abortion (you can't salvage some of the turds out there). USE THIS FORUM; there's some really great information here, and be sure to peruse the archives, as well.
No need to buy a pro-built car at this stage, work on the driver first. If you're sharp, you'll find something really decent for well under 10K that you can either build on or recoup some of your costs from.
"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad-ass speed," -Eleanor Roosevelt
#18
Posted 05-30-2012 08:13 PM
#19
Posted 05-31-2012 03:10 PM
If you want to go racing this season, I'd buy a used SM that has seen recent race time. Then, I'd get on track and update it down the road with items that you'd choose to outfit it with (if you then had performance items in mind or a more tailored seat or steering wheel preference, etc.)
I went the other route and started with a semi-rough caged car w/toast motor, etc (but with an SCCA log book). I spent more than twice the time and money that I anticipated I would need. Having said that, along the way I've learned a lot about my car and how to prep it and most components are to my preference. In hindsight, however, I could have used that time and money improving myself on the track instead of improving my car at the shop.
Hope this helps.
Kevin
#20
Posted 05-31-2012 10:10 PM
"How do you make a small fortune in racing? Start with a big one!"
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