21 replies to this topic

[William Bonsell]

I've been running Mobil 1 for the past three years in my SM. Just bought a '91 Porsche 944S2 (147K and 10.9-1 compression) with Brad Penn 20-50 oil. Service was done by a specialty Seattle race shop owned by a very prominent member of the Pacific Northwest racing scene. I had never heard of this oil before. Seems to be especially beneficial to engines with a bit more mileage particularly on start up. Also not sure if this is a full synthetic or blended.

Just curious if anyone has any opinions...Thanks.

Bill-

[FTodaro]

I have been using Brad Penn #1 racing oil in my sm for 3 years and love it. It has tons of zinc in it for racing application. A friend of mine is a dealer, but you can also buy it wholesale from any distributor. last time I paid 55.00 for a case of 12. got to love that when you change oil as frequently as I do. the also make a break in oil that is good.

Its made in Pennsylvania I believe.

[LarryKing]

I loved him as "Spicoli"

[Doug007]

It's not synthetic. It comes from highly refined Pennsylvania crude. I've heard good things too. A lot of the porsche guys that need heavy oils (50wt) use it.

http://www.penngrade1.com/

[Keith Andrews]

It is not synthetic or blended, pure dino oil. http://www.penngrade1.com/

[Keith Andrews]

Hey Doug, great minds think alike

[FTodaro]

It is not synthetic or blended, pure dino oil. http://www.penngrade1.com/

It says synthetic blend on the bottle.
Its a blend.

[dstevens]

Some of the Bullring guys use it because of the zinc. It's a top shelf lubricant and pretty reasonably priced.

[LarryKing]

On a serious note, I run dino oil or a blend. The lifters tick with pure synthetic, plus I change the oil every other event and that's too much coin with synth.

[Doug007]

It says synthetic blend on the bottle.
Its a blend.

Well depends on which oil you are talking about. The single grade oils are pure dino (30wt, 40wt, 50wt). The multigrade oils have a synthetic component so are a blend, but likely a very low synthetic blend...

It is a high grade oil for relatively low price but they don't make a 20wt oil.

[GROOTS]

I have been using Brad Penn #1 racing oil in my sm for 3 years and love it. It has tons of zinc in it for racing application. A friend of mine is a dealer, but you can also buy it wholesale from any distributor. last time I paid 55.00 for a case of 12. got to love that when you change oil as frequently as I do. the also make a break in oil that is good.

Its made in Pennsylvania I believe.

What weight are you using ?? 10-30 ?

[fotostars]

Uhm, interesting... It sells for $6.99/Qt on Amazon (Prime). Maybe I'll go with that moving forward.
Been using RedLine 30W but it's almost twice the $$$ and not sure it's any better.

[Alberto]

Want to figure out proper oil change intervals?
Send a sample to Blackstone labs - http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Otherwise, you are just guessing on what is the appropriate interval.

My results using Redline race 30 weight here:
http://mazdaracers.c...ost-yours-here/

[Don]

I've been using Brad Penn 20-50 (synthetic blend) in my 951 for a few years now. It is generally considered "the oil" to use in older Porsches (pelicanparts.com forums have a massive thread on oil comparisons).

I second the recommendation to have Blackstone Labs test the oil.

[FTodaro]

What weight are you using ?? 10-30 ?

10/30 is what I use and change after two weekends. It looks like it came out of the can but oil is cheaper that Dr. Prego.

[5X Racing]

from our team!
We use and sell a lot of Brad Penn Racing oil as well, and always had good luck with it. People buy it in quantities of 12's. I've heard from the Porsche guys that it helps keep their air-cooled engines temps down compared to other oils. Can't verify that in our SM's, but it does help with lifter tick from our experiences. I like it for a street engine oil too, it's cheaper than most off the shelf synthetics locally and I feel much more comfortable using it in the high mileage engines of our street Miata's. Spending $15 a quart gets old in our sport too...

[DES4]

from our team!
We use and sell a lot of Brad Penn Racing oil as well, and always had good luck with it. People buy it in quantities of 12's. I've heard from the Porsche guys that it helps keep their air-cooled engines temps down compared to other oils. Can't verify that in our SM's, but it does help with lifter tick from our experiences. I like it for a street engine oil too, it's cheaper than most off the shelf synthetics locally and I feel much more comfortable using it in the high mileage engines of our street Miata's. Spending $15 a quart gets old in our sport too...

I'm about ready to replace a full set of HLA's in the SM for the very tick issue you state. I've thought of trying Marvel Mystery Oil (or any number of snake oils out there; I've nothing to lose), but if you've had luck with the above-mentioned "Brad Penn" stuff, I'd give it a go for that reason alone. Substantial/noticable reduction in lifter tick?

Currently using Mobil 1 in both my street and race Miata's...

[William Bonsell]

I've never experienced HLA noise in my 127K motor running Mobile 1 10-30w. Wonder if the can of Engine Restore I throw in every once in a while has any thing to do with that. Curious what the added ZDDP in the Brad Penn oil brings to the table. I know what it is doing in my older Porsche with flat tappets.

[5X Racing]

I'm about ready to replace a full set of HLA's in the SM for the very tick issue you state. I've thought of trying Marvel Mystery Oil (or any number of snake oils out there; I've nothing to lose), but if you've had luck with the above-mentioned "Brad Penn" stuff, I'd give it a go for that reason alone. Substantial/noticable reduction in lifter tick?

Currently using Mobil 1 in both my street and race Miata's...

If your lifter tick issue is excessive, then it is very well possible that your lifters, or some at least are stuck. I would most definitely try the Brad Penn oil as $40 is going to be worth a shot rather than the $500+ for a new set of lifters! If worse comes to worst, you can always try to refresh the lifters yourself to save some cash. If you need help with this, we might be able to have a look at your lifters and service them for you. We've had luck with this on some of our own engines before. You'd have to email me for more info though.
The Brad Penn oil tends to be a bit thicker, and the zinc content certainly helps with things in race engines. As far as I understand, most, if not all of the oils on the shelf at the local auto parts stores do not contain zinc anymore. I am not sure of the reasoning, but I have read this.

[Todd Tagget]

Valvoline racing oil has a high zinc contents as well I run that in my Porsche...