
Torque specs for PPF bolts?
#1
Posted 01-23-2011 10:25 PM

#2
Posted 01-23-2011 11:23 PM

#3
Posted 01-24-2011 08:57 AM

What are the torque specs for the 4 Power Plant Frame (PPF) bolts?
Thanks.
4 or 5 rattles on the Snap-on impact gun!
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#4
Posted 01-24-2011 09:08 AM

Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230





#5
Posted 01-24-2011 01:01 PM

-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing
2011 + 2013 NER STU Champion
#6
Posted 01-24-2011 01:15 PM


#7
Posted 01-24-2011 02:56 PM

Is that because the installer did not check them BEFORE the first session, LOLI always double check PPF bolts after the first session
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good



#8
Posted 01-24-2011 03:39 PM

In all honesty, as with most things in life, I did learn this the hard way. But I have sold enough PPF bolts at the track to know that I am not alone in this way of learning. Hopefully someone will learn from my experience.
Glenn, go put another log on the fire
Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230





#9
Posted 01-24-2011 04:53 PM

Thanks gents. I spent most of the weekend removing the old front subframe to replace with a newer, hopefully straighter subframe. I did the rear one last weekend. What a pita to do solo... I was too tired to think of searching miata.net or think about bolt tightening order...
Better hurry...only a few days to go!
Ron
RAmotorsports


#10
Posted 01-24-2011 06:10 PM

Measure accross the upper control arm mounting points. They should be the same on the forward bushing as on the rear bushing. In other words, the tube for the upper control arm should be parellel to the center line of the car when viewed from above. Even 1/4" of difference will effect the allignment
dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
Back to Back June Sprints Spec Miata 1-2 finishes 2016 and 2017
5 time June Sprints winner in Mazda's
6 Time Northern Conference Champion Car Builder
2014 SCCA Majors National point Champion car builder
2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
2007 June Sprints winner, (GT1, Mohrhauser)
Over 200 race wins and counting.
www.advanced-autosports.com
dave@advanced-autosports.com
608-313-1230





#11
Posted 01-24-2011 06:49 PM

The FSM shows a specified order in which to tighten the bolts. Does it really matter? I hate digging out my FSM every time I need to tighten those bolts.
I suffer from CRS disease (Can't Remember Sh*t) so I P-Touch (label) torque settings and any applicable sequence of most fasteners somewhere nearby on the car. Saves a ton of time.






#12
Posted 01-24-2011 08:27 PM

I suffer from CRS disease (Can't Remember Sh*t) so I P-Touch (label) torque settings and any applicable sequence of most fasteners somewhere nearby on the car. Saves a ton of time.
Sharpies are great for that. Black one for silver parts. Silver one for black parts.
There also happens to be a whole lot of room on the underside of the hood if you need somewhere to write things down like coil to spark plug sequence, torque values, fly goes in front, etc.



#13
Posted 01-24-2011 08:37 PM

To check you front subframe for straightness:
Measure accross the upper control arm mounting points. They should be the same on the forward bushing as on the rear bushing. In other words, the tube for the upper control arm should be parellel to the center line of the car when viewed from above. Even 1/4" of difference will effect the allignment
dave
Thanks Dave for the info but the issue I was having was with the steering rack mounts looking like they were slightly off. The driver side mount was about 1/4-1/2" higher than the passenger side mount.
Ron - I'm ready. Been driving it on the road to make sure there aren't any issues. Getting aligned on Wed. Already passed SCCA Tech and have a log book.

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