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Torque specs for PPF bolts?

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#1
Alberto

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What are the torque specs for the 4 Power Plant Frame (PPF) bolts?

Thanks.
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#2
Ron Alan

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77-91 ft lbs. Source...Miata.net

Ron

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#3
Glenn

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What are the torque specs for the 4 Power Plant Frame (PPF) bolts?

Thanks.


4 or 5 rattles on the Snap-on impact gun!

Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good ;)

 

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#4
davew

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I always double check PPF bolts after the first session

Dave Wheeler
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#5
Cy Peake

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The FSM shows a specified order in which to tighten the bolts. Does it really matter? I hate digging out my FSM every time I need to tighten those bolts.

-Cy
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#6
Alberto

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Thanks gents. I spent most of the weekend removing the old front subframe to replace with a newer, hopefully straighter subframe. I did the rear one last weekend. What a pita to do solo... I was too tired to think of searching miata.net or think about bolt tightening order...
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#7
Glenn

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I always double check PPF bolts after the first session

Is that because the installer did not check them BEFORE the first session, LOL

Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
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#8
davew

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Glenn be nice!!!!!

In all honesty, as with most things in life, I did learn this the hard way. But I have sold enough PPF bolts at the track to know that I am not alone in this way of learning. Hopefully someone will learn from my experience.

Glenn, go put another log on the fire

Dave

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#9
Ron Alan

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Thanks gents. I spent most of the weekend removing the old front subframe to replace with a newer, hopefully straighter subframe. I did the rear one last weekend. What a pita to do solo... I was too tired to think of searching miata.net or think about bolt tightening order...


Better hurry...only a few days to go!

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#10
davew

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To check you front subframe for straightness:

Measure accross the upper control arm mounting points. They should be the same on the forward bushing as on the rear bushing. In other words, the tube for the upper control arm should be parellel to the center line of the car when viewed from above. Even 1/4" of difference will effect the allignment

dave

Dave Wheeler
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#11
john mueller

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The FSM shows a specified order in which to tighten the bolts. Does it really matter? I hate digging out my FSM every time I need to tighten those bolts.


I suffer from CRS disease (Can't Remember Sh*t) so I P-Touch (label) torque settings and any applicable sequence of most fasteners somewhere nearby on the car. Saves a ton of time.
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#12
Keith Novak

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I suffer from CRS disease (Can't Remember Sh*t) so I P-Touch (label) torque settings and any applicable sequence of most fasteners somewhere nearby on the car. Saves a ton of time.


Sharpies are great for that. Black one for silver parts. Silver one for black parts.

There also happens to be a whole lot of room on the underside of the hood if you need somewhere to write things down like coil to spark plug sequence, torque values, fly goes in front, etc.
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#13
Alberto

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To check you front subframe for straightness:

Measure accross the upper control arm mounting points. They should be the same on the forward bushing as on the rear bushing. In other words, the tube for the upper control arm should be parellel to the center line of the car when viewed from above. Even 1/4" of difference will effect the allignment

dave


Thanks Dave for the info but the issue I was having was with the steering rack mounts looking like they were slightly off. The driver side mount was about 1/4-1/2" higher than the passenger side mount.


Ron - I'm ready. Been driving it on the road to make sure there aren't any issues. Getting aligned on Wed. Already passed SCCA Tech and have a log book.
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