12 replies to this topic

[Alberto]

So... I bent the rear lower control arm long bolt. Bent it pretty good. The bend is located on the inside of the bushing where it passes through the spindle / upright. Hammering doesn't look like it's going to work.

Trying to figure out how I could salvage the parts by cutting the bolt but have no idea how I'd get anything in there to cut the bolt.

Anyone got any tips?

Thanks.

[Ron Alan]

Done it with a sawzall(3 blades)and a hand hacksaw. Believe it or not the hacksaw was easier. The bolt needs to be in all the...wedge something(screwdriver) between the LCA(bushing)and the upright/knuckle on either side so you can see the bolt between...then cut away. Best to have a fine tooth brand new blade. you have to do this on each side of knuckle so you end up with three pieces. Happy sweating!

[Johnny D]

I haven't cut a LCA bolt before but would think a Dremel with a cut-off wheel would work well.
I have one and could come by after work.
J~

[Glenn]

4" side grinder. Cut from the inside of the LCA. Its a PIA but they always come out, LOL. You may have to spin it to cut all the way thru

[davew]

A sawzall and some patience will get it cut out. Usually in 3 pieces.

If the bolt is bent as bad as you say it is, both the control arm and upright are also probably bent. The easy method is to replace everything and have no issues.

There is no easy way to check the upright except for a jig. The lower can be checked by using 2 rods through the inner and outer bushing holes. They should be parrellel. I have made jigs for checking all the suspension parts. You would be amazed at how many are bent.

You should also check the rear subframe. I sell a tool for checking those.

Dave

[Randy Thieme]

I've had good success using a gear puller. Thought I'd posted a picture before but couldn't find the thread. Anyways, the hook ends latch onto the LCA and the pushy-thingy (that's a technical term) pushes against the end of the bolt. Depending on the puller's reach it might be necessary to back it up with a short bolt to get it all the way out . Just be careful of scratching the inside where the bolt goes.

[Alberto]

Thanks gents.

Dremel probably won't work - at least not using the small 1" cut off wheels that I have. The cut off wheels seem too thick to get in the small space between the metal insert in the control arm bushings and the upright.

Hacksaw may work. Hacksaw blades are pretty thin and may be able to fit in the small space. I guess I could use the exercise... Need to buy a hack saw.

Never used a Sawzall before...


Dave - Yes, I'm assuming they are bent and already sourced replacement parts. "Ron Alan" Nor Cal Parts Pimp Enterprises LLC hooked me up.
If I manage to get that bolt out, I will carefully measure the parts and keep them for spares.
I was going to order your rear subframe measuring tool but I have a spare reference subframe (also from Ron my Parts Pimp) that I used to measure and compare distance between alignment bolt holes so wound up not needing it.
Surprisingly (thankfully) the subframe is straight. The long bolt is very bent, the alignment bolt had been re-adjusted but subframe looks straight. I suspect the upright may not be straight and the LCA is suspect.

[Roger Caddell]

Had the best luck pushing them out with an air chisel with a blunt tool attached. Tried a hammer and drift but the rubber bushings made it nearly impossible, air chisel made it about a 30sec job.

[Todd Tagget]

I had this same problem, found a little PB blaster in the bushing then hitting it hard with an impact wrench.. ,, It's tough to have it bent to the point it won't come out.. probably just rust etc...

[Alberto]

No rust on there Todd. It may come out by hammering but the last time we hammered out a long bolt it took 4 of us taking turns over an hour or so pounding with a 2 lb sledge and a drift punch.

I can afford to make that kind of noise at the track. Can't really do it where I live as I'll piss off the neighbors.

No idea what an air chisel is but too bad Roger doesn't live closer.

[dstevens]

An air chisel is an air hammer that has a chisel attachment.


Yep, it's noisy and you need a compressor that will keep up. As I've said in the past, plasma cutting or even Oxy/Acetylene cutting are my favs. And has you've found a BFH and a drift pin. Your neighbors would REALLY hate me... Though I do try not to run the loud machinery after 11pm. Hey, it's Vegas I've gone 'til midnight with no complaints. Around here except for some of the kids sleeping down the street, most of us are just getting off work.

[bigsmittyJAS]

I had my long bolts rusted in the uprights when I tried to change the rear bearings in my car. I ended up with a super size combo of torches, hammers, cut off wheels, and gallons of PB blaster. In the end, the only thing that kept me going was pure rage . About halfway through, buying a new upright assembly looked like a mighty attractive option. I keep what is left of that bolt at my desk as a continual reminder that sometimes its best to quit while you're ahead.

[Alberto]

I keep what is left of that bolt at my desk as a continual reminder that sometimes its best to quit while you're ahead.

LOL. Yeah, I learned that lesson already!