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#1
Jim Drago

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Machinist's Workshop recently published information on various penetrating
fluids. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating fluids, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.


Average torque load to loosen nut:
No penetrant used .............516 foot pounds
WD-40 ................................238 foot pounds
PB Blaster ..........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ...................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil ..........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix................. 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with
equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix.


ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid

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#2
Glenn

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Any data on "soak time"?

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#3
Jim Drago

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That's all I got, from an email
Jim

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#4
Glenn

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http://www.mytractor...p/t-155825.html

Interesting "non scientific" experement

One more....
http://forums.pelica...o-o-o-ogus.html

Im still willing to give it a try though.......

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#5
TEAM MEDICARE

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I've found that heat combined with the penetrant works better.

Probably not a good idea with the acetone brew!

#6
FTodaro

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Jim are you saying you are an expert on Rusty Nuts?

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#7
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That's all I got, from an email Jim



How about you ask your e-mail friend what size the bolts were.

I have found PB better than WD40, did try a mix of ATF and something years ago and it didn't work all that great. Back then I did a search and found all kinds of home-bru.
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Keith Novak

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I've found that heat combined with the penetrant works better.

Probably not a good idea with the acetone brew!


I can assure you a can of WD-40 makes a mighty fine flame thrower. Ask any grade school kid who's almost burned the house down.
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#9
TEAM MEDICARE

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I can assure you a can of WD-40 makes a mighty fine flame thrower. Ask any grade school kid who's almost burned the house down.


Worked on a lot of restorations over the years. Never found WD 40 was very good at this. Use it mostly as the name suggests - Water Displacement
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#10
ChrisA

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Only the penetrant man shall pass.

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#11
joeg5982

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Arguing about penetrants is like debating religion.

There are many good products.

Obviously Kroil is amazing, but you need to let it sit (and keep applying it) for a long time. I think PB is about the best in the generally available category.

If you want to search a bit, two good ones are Thunderbolt by Wellworth and Gibbs.

WD is not designed for this work. I keep a can to remove decal residue.

BTW, PB is also great for removing urethane glued in windshields (very messy though)

#12
Caveman-kwebb99

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put a little A S S a tone mixed with atf and your rusty nuts just go away... Been using this for 3 years works better than anything i ever seen, it also works to clean rings and carbon buildup in engines put few ounces on toip of each cylinder and let sit over night then start up change plugs and retest your leak down. had this bring back an engine or two.

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#13
Keith Novak

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Worked on a lot of restorations over the years. Never found WD 40 was very good at this. Use it mostly as the name suggests - Water Displacement


I had to double check my memory and sure enough it didn't light. I could have sworn it was WD 40. I wonder what the heck I was using that time. It wasn't the bee spray. That shot all the way across the garage and lit the door on fire.
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#14
TEAM MEDICARE

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I had to double check my memory and sure enough it didn't light. I could have sworn it was WD 40. I wonder what the heck I was using that time. It wasn't the bee spray. That shot all the way across the garage and lit the door on fire.



Good old hair spray burned pretty well. Used it in our potato cannons with good results.
Wasn’t enough kick for the bowling ball cannon. Ended up with acetylene and oxygen which proved spectacular, especially at night!

back to the rusty nuts

#15
SaulSpeedwell

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[indent=1]

Machinist's Workshop recently published information on various penetrating
fluids.


LOLing here because I think I've sat through at least eight separate lunch hours discussing this test and related topics.

My biggest concern with the article's applicability to us is that 12 hour immersion of a rusted sliding fit is not representative of what happens when we hope, pray, and spray our favorite mystery oil at a threaded fastener that has been stuck for years.

Link to original (2007) article:
http://www.gmcmhphot...ng_Oil_Test.jpg

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#16
Anthony Ralston

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I had to double check my memory and sure enough it didn't light. I could have sworn it was WD 40. I wonder what the heck I was using that time. It wasn't the bee spray. That shot all the way across the garage and lit the door on fire.


You are thinking about brake cleaner. It's what I use to take down wasp nests. It's also a great fire starter.




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