33 replies to this topic

[Brian129]

Hi everyone,

I'm new around here and just picked up a 1990 miata with 120,000 miles in really good shape for $1600
I think I did pretty well

I plan to find a hard top, put a cage in, and make it a spec car eventually, using it at track days until it is race ready.

Here the kicker, I knew it needed some work, but the radiator is now leaking pretty bad, I think it's not allowing the system to build pressure, and when in traffic it will start to get to 3/4 to H on the gauge. The problem is Tuesday is my birthday, so I kinda need to get it through emissions.
Anyone in the Atlanta area have a good stock rad laying around I can get cheap?

I need to do a waterpump, timing belt, and steering rack, as well as the cam seal by the firewall, so I will be back, and search for that info. I already have Dave's book, though I just saw it was updated. So I have a good starting point.

Thanks, and hopefully progress can begin soon, I just need to clear some parts from old projects out of the garage.

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[Mike Asselta]

Hi Brian...we aren't in your area and not sure we have a stock radiator, but since we're snowed in over here this morning:

 

Once you do get that miata up to SM specs and run it on track, you'll need a good fat racing radiator.  The 1.6 can be a difficult one to keep cool in hot racing environments, and although this is a clear conflict of interest: the radiator from Springfield Dyno will solve that for you without a bunch of experimentation and wasted money.   

 

Welcome to Spec Miata and keep us posted on your build!  

[Brian129]

I have thought of that, and I know I will have to upgrade for later, but its not in the budget right now, which is why I'm looking for a good used stocker cheap. I may just switch the title now and save some cash to tag it later

[Tom Hampton]

Check www.car-part.com.

You can also search Craigslist for "Miata part out".

[David L]

Check out ebay for a cx racing radiator, about 125 bucks and I have been running them for 3 years with no problems.  

[Brian129]

well I know I asked a few more questions at somepoint, but the car is coming along now.

I am to the point I need to start getting my cage started, and get a seat to put in.
I have the Miatacage kit sitting waiting to go in.

I am thinking about a Sparco Evo II US, Being I can build the cage around it.
I am 6'2" and 215lbs,with 36-38 waist, so I think that seat will be a good fit.
I have read where someone was able to mount this without a tunnel patch panel, so i am hoping i can get away with that.

also, I think I will paint the inside of the car grey once everything is all together. I am debating painting the engine bay, but without completely disassembling
everything, fenders and all I am not sure that I could get a clean break point for the color change. anyone have any opinions on this?

Also the other one i wanted to ask was on the parking brake removal,
I have the rear calipers apart, I have not seen the little rice kernel metal piece anywhere, so not sure about that, but I did pull the adjusting mechanism out of the inside of the piston, leaving the allen bolt in place in the caliper. I have also pulled the bracket off the back of the caliper.My question is I think this is all I can remove, is that correct? The arm the cable attaches to would be nice to remove, but I don't know if that will come out without leaking fluid(cant tell as the calipers are already off the car).

Thanks, ill add a few pics from my phone of my progress. I really cant wait to get to drive it after all the updates.

[RussMcB]

Car looks great.  Look like you're doing it nice.  Of course, you know, the nicer your car looks, the slower you'll drive it.  :-).

 

I recently joined Spec Miata racing, and these guys were very helpful:

 

www.racinganalytics.com

 

They are not too far from you and have plenty of Miata build and prep experience.

[LarryKing]

Did you buy all new subframes, suspensions and drivetrain?

 

Shiny!

[Ron Alan]

Man...thats a decent amount of weight on a fold up table!  All you need to remove is the little grenade thing inside...sounds like you got it. Legal or not to remove, just leave the rest! If you pulled out the actual arm that pivots when you pull the ebrake, you would find the rive kernel.

[LarryKing]

Search this site - at one time there was a how-to thread on parking brake removal. Or you can hire S. Speedwell to do it for you.

[Brian129]

Did you buy all new subframes, suspensions and drivetrain?

 

Shiny!

 

 

Nope in a previous thread i asked about buying a 97 roller if i could switch all the subframes, the answer i got was yes,  so I bought the roller parted off some pieces and kept the subframes and suspension.  Then pressure washed scuffed, and painted everything up so its all nice and clean, reassembled with new ball joints and repacked bearings.

I'm going for a nice clean car to work on, that will not be a hassle to maintain,  lot of work, but hopefully it pays off.    

 

Car looks great.  Look like you're doing it nice.  Of course, you know, the nicer your car looks, the slower you'll drive it.  :-).

 

I recently joined Spec Miata racing, and these guys were very helpful:

 

www.racinganalytics.com

 

They are not too far from you and have plenty of Miata build and prep experience.

 

yeah,  I have heard that,  oh well. I know i wont win anyway,  I don't have the cash for a pro motor,  ill build my own, and be happy, and have fun. 

 

I spoke with the racing analytics guys at the NASA event at RA, they seem to be good people,

Man...thats a decent amount of weight on a fold up table!  All you need to remove is the little grenade thing inside...sounds like you got it. Legal or not to remove, just leave the rest! If you pulled out the actual arm that pivots when you pull the ebrake, you would find the rive kernel.

I got the grenade, so i should be good. 

 

So i can pull out the arm that pivots? or will that cause a leak? 

 

Search this site - at one time there was a how-to thread on parking brake removal. Or you can hire S. Speedwell to do it for you.

I did, and found some info,  but one seems to have been deleted and turned into a service offered thread to pay someone else to do it. I like doing my own. 

[Bench Racer]

I got the grenade, so i should be good. 

 

 

So i can pull out the arm that pivots? or will that cause a leak? 

 

 

I did, and found some info,  but one seems to have been deleted and turned into a service offered thread to pay someone else to do it. I like doing my own. 

Here is a video showing the rebuild of a NB rear caliper. At 10:10 seconds you will see the part the shop manual calls the "connecting link". A little further and it's shown how the "connecting link" functions. There is always an option to things, so being I was doing this for a first time and the Bennett video wasn't around when I removed my parking stuff I cut off the threaded part of the "adjusting bolt. I left the o-ring in to seal brake fluid and I left the "operating lever" so that for a secondary seal I had the pressed in lip seals.

Under my NA car I built a couple years ago there are brand new sub-frames and control arms to go with the new suspension.

 

Your deal is looking really good.

[LarryKing]

turned into a service offered thread to pay someone else to do it. I like doing my own.

 

Yep - I'm a do-it-myself kinda guy too - but there are times I defer to experts. Besides someone has to keep Speedwell in beer money.

[Alberto]

Who is installing / welding in your cage?  Who is installing your seat?  I ask b/c the Sparco may not give you the clearance you need.  A couple of local taller guys were not able to fit height-wise in the Sparco Pro ADV with the rear of the seat mounted to the floor boards (stock rear seat mounts removed).  

 

See if you can find a local-ish source for seats so you can test fit and measure - and return if it doesn't work.

[Brian129]

Who is installing / welding in your cage? Who is installing your seat? I ask b/c the Sparco may not give you the clearance you need. A couple of local taller guys were not able to fit height-wise in the Sparco Pro ADV with the rear of the seat mounted to the floor boards (stock rear seat mounts removed).

See if you can find a local-ish source for seats so you can test fit and measure - and return if it doesn't work.

Well that would be me as of right now.

I am pretty sure I am going to have a friend help with the final welding of sections but I will be doing all of the tube fitting and tacking leading up to that.
I am open to recommendations of someone who has done one around Atlanta, the only one I have heard so far is Robinson, who wants to do a full custom cage, which when I already have the kit means I'm wasting a lot of money

As for a seat, dunno haven't gotten one yet, wanted to get some opinions first.
I want to mount it on a fabricated bracket from the front hump down to the floor, with a rail on it so I can sit all the way down and back at the rear point, then leave the option for the seat to come up and forward to allow shorter people to fit.
I want to do an FIA seat I think, but not halo or full containment

[Bench Racer]

If you have not already sat in seats in cars, do that first before buying a seat. Get a feel from the seat how you fit, steering wheel reach position, pedals, shift lever and make sure you know how to have elbow room clearance from the side protection tubes.

[Brian129]

Well work is progressing on my car. Man it takes a lot of effort to build one. I've built a race bike or two but this is way more.

Atleast I am past the disassembling part and can get started putting parts back on.

Cage is all done and interior painted.
And motor is sitting waiting to go on.

I'm taking some time off working on it until the new year

 

 

 

 

 

[Brian129]

a few more of the details. 

 

came out pretty good for just shooting Rustoleum out of a gun.

 

 

 

 

now I just need to get the thing finished up and assembled again.  THere is a trackday on Jan 18 that might be a good shake down

[RussMcB]

Looking great.

 

One piece of advice I got was to make sure all holes were filled so flames can't get from the trunk or engine compartments into the driver's compartment.  I heard that's one thing SCCA tech guys check for when you get your logbook.

 

Jan 18 doesn't sound very far away!  :-).

 

Good luck.

 

[Glenn Davis]

Looking great.

 

One piece of advice I got was to make sure all holes were filled so flames can't get from the trunk or engine compartments into the driver's compartment.  I heard that's one thing SCCA tech guys check for when you get your logbook.

 

Jan 18 doesn't sound very far away!  :-).

 

Good luck.

 

How does one go about this chore when the interior is prepped and painted so nicely as to not make it look like a patch job?