9 replies to this topic

[mhiggins10]

I'm completely new to (read: clueless about) paint and body work and am hoping someone here can help.  I have a few spots on my car where removal of old vinyl decals has pulled up small areas of paint (.5-2" in diameter), leaving what looks to be bare metal or primer.  The car has been resprayed once, though I assume it was originally (and still is) red so  someone must have done a basic respray to repair some body damage at some point.  The paint is definitely not factory caliber and looks to be more of a maaco/cheap-o job, which is fine with me.

 

I'd like to try to correct this myself and get it as close to looking like it never happened as possible (though obviously it doesn't have to be perfect). Does anyone know what I'd need to do, and what materials are recommended for something like this?  I'd assume I need to sand/scuff the good paint around the exposed metal and maybe use a roller or brush to put new paint on? What kind of paint should I use?  Do I need to re-clear things?  Wet send when I'm done? 

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated....

[Mark]

Others can speak to process. I suck at bodywork .

 

For small touch ups i like to use a Preval sprayer rather then dealing with cleaning sprays guns and dealing with all the mess amd overspray issues. They hold about a baby jar worth of paint.  I just dispose of the whole thing rather than deal with the cleanup when done. I've painted entire fenders and doors with these things. Preval units can be found at Home Depot and similar stores. My paint store carries them as well. Buy a pint of paint, hardner, and some reducer from a auto paint supply store and you are all set for these littlle touchups. Take the gas cap lid or a mirror to the paint store for matching. You'd be amazed at the number of 'reds' available. 

 

Mark

[LarryKing]

Find the paint code, usually on the door jam. Miata red is 'SU', depending on the year. (if memory serves)

 

Two basic kinds of paint: single stage, which dries shiny and does not need clear coat; and two-stage, which is a base coat of the color, dries with a matte finish and then clear-coated. Factory paint is two-stage.

 

I suppose you could paint with a roller if you wanted to - you probably wouldn't need to sand if you did.

[mhiggins10]

Find the paint code, usually on the door jam. Miata red is 'SU', depending on the year. (if memory serves)

 

Two basic kinds of paint: single stage, which dries shiny and does not need clear coat; and two-stage, which is a base coat of the color, dries with a matte finish and then clear-coated. Factory paint in two-stage.

 

I suppose you could paint with a roller if you wanted to - you probably wouldn't need to sand if you did.

 

 

 

It is indeed SU.  For a single-stage paint (which sounds very appealing), can I just get any brand from any local auto parts store, or do I need to find good stuff (PPG, etc.) from a reputable paint and body shop?  I'm assuming a PreVal sprayer would take care of application.

 

Do I still need to sand/prep?  And can one  paint in the open, or do I need to mask off an area around the car with some form of structure and plastic sheeting?

[LarryKing]

Yes, you should sand the old paint smooth, EZ clean the surface, spray with primer, sand again with fine grit, repeat prime/sand, EZ clean again, tacky cloth if you really want to get fancy. I spray paint in my gravel drive, but I live in the country and you still need a pretty windless day, and low quality standards. I've made a homemade paintbooth in my garage by hanging visqueen, but paint dust still goes everywhere. If you value lung function I suggest a good respirator.

 

Most auto parts stores only carry spray cans, which actually can work OK. A trick is to set the can in warm water for about 5 minutes before you start paint. The warmed paint flows better. Otherwise if you go paint/reducer/hardener route go to an autobody supply. Prepare to be stunned with how much auto paint cost.

[Motor City Hamilton]

If you have a Macco in your area, the ambassador paint job is around $400.  That's not enough difference for me to buy paint and load the paint gun (around $200 in paint and supplies and overspray all over my garage).  I had to call around to the ten or so around Detroit.  Some price the lowest at $2,000, but some still do the ambassador for cheap.  They pretty much just shoot so overspray can get everywhere if you don't take some steps.  I sanded the car and wiped it down with the prep cleaner.  I also taped around the window rubbers so that they could just slap a bit of tape/paper easily over my finely careful tape job.  If you leave this step to them, they will just slap on some tape and shoot.  I also covered my seat with plastic bags.  Better yet, you might just want to remove your good racing seat and put a box on the floor to sit on.  Also kind of makes it more difficult for them to joy ride the car around the parking lot.  I also covered the radiator and engine bay with paper, plus wrapped the shocks with garbage bags and zip ties.  I also rolled the car in on a set of old, junk street tires.  Lot's of overspray on the rims and lots on one spot of each tire where paint pooled on the floor.  Overspray comes with the job at no extra charge.

 

With my prep work and them shooting for $400, they did a nice job.  It has lasted for five seasons (except for the spots that my competitors decided to rub off for me).  Prepping for a repaint now and will do the same things.

[joeg5982]

I am a painter, but for spots, just use more stickers and decals!

[LarryKing]

What MCH said.

[ChrisA]

Find the paint code, usually on the door jam. Miata red is 'SU', depending on the year. (if memory serves)

 

Two basic kinds of paint: single stage, which dries shiny and does not need clear coat; and two-stage, which is a base coat of the color, dries with a matte finish and then clear-coated. Factory paint is two-stage.

 

The factory red (SU) was single-stage up to 2000, after that they went to base/clear-coat. Single-stage will be easier to touch up than 2-stage,... at least that is what I've been told by folks they paint racecars.

[Cy Peake]

NAPA can mix you single or dual stage factory color-coded paint in a rattle can.  For smaller chips/bumps I use a black Sharpie on my dark green car.