24 replies to this topic

[Parity]

Took a hit to the right front this weekend and lost camber. I was running -3.5" but now can barely get -2.0. The sub frame had a crease in it so we replaced it. Top control arm looks fine and long bolt is straight. Replaced bolt anyway, and lower control arm. Same. No visible kinks in tub. All other corners are good and did not move.. Am I missing something?

 

 

[Zauskycop]

spindle, and/or lower ball joint

[Parity]

spindle, and/or lower ball joint

We changed lower ball joint. I'll try the spindle next. 

 

Thanks

[RazerX]

I am not clear if you did or did not replace the LCA.  But a bent LCA = less camber

[Bench Racer]

Have you been on your scales before and after your changes?

[Parity]

I did change the lower control arm and scaled the car. No changes on scales.

[UCFBrett]

You had -3.5 degrees front camber from an NA? 

 

[Parity]

You had -3.5 degrees front camber from an NA? 

 

As far as I can tell, yes. Now for a newb question, what's an NA?

[UCFBrett]

NA is the factory code for 1990-1997 Miatas, which are notorious for not offering up anything more than -3.0 degrees front camber. In fact if you can get -2.5 you should consider yourself lucky.

 

1990-1997 = NA

1999-2005 = NB

2006 - current = NC

[Parity]

NA is the factory code for 1990-1997 Miatas, which are notorious for not offering up anything more than -3.0 degrees front camber. In fact if you can get -2.5 you should consider yourself lucky.

 

1990-1997 = NA

1999-2005 = NB

2006 - current = NC

 

 

Did not know that.

[Keith Novak]

I don't have much trouble getting into the 3.1 - 3.2* range and had more (rarely).  A virtually inperceptable bend in the LCA will bring that down to 2.5.  A used sub-frame that doesn't look bent can take you down another half degree easily. 

 

Before changing anything, double and triple check that your set-up stands are balls-on dead level.  I've chased more issues with camber or corner weights over and over to find that it was a pad problem all along.  Doesn't take much.  Now I level them with a water level and re-check that with a laser level.  Cheap water levels can actually provide readings with very little repeatability if you're not very careful.  If something seems amiss with my measurements, I check and reset my pads before I turn wrenches until I want to claw my eyes out.

[Parity]

 I'm using a Longacre 3 pin bubble camber gage. If I place it on a wall it reads 0*. I measure -3.5* LF, -2* RF,  and -3.25* on rears and I'm measuring in my garage which is level. Reversing the car in the bay does not affect the result. Car is lowered onto plastic bags and rolled to settle potential bind and I always check the rears to ensure level. I've run a laser and measure the difference from top to bottom with the same results. We'll be switching out the spindle today to see if that changes anything. 

[Parity]

Ok, found out my gage isn't reading properly. Using laser level and trig I figured it's definitely off. But I can still use it to compare side to side. I've changed sub-frame, lower control arm, upper long bolt, knuckle, lower ball joint. Still shows much less camber. Any other suggestions?

[Ron Alan]

Ok, found out my gage isn't reading properly. Using laser level and trig I figured it's definitely off. But I can still use it to compare side to side. I've changed sub-frame, lower control arm, upper long bolt, knuckle, lower ball joint. Still shows much less camber. Any other suggestions?

I'm sure Drago has a nice car for sale? ok, maybe that doesn't help....

[RazerX]

Some subframes give less camber than others, i know you don't want to hear that.  

 

are your tire pressures all at normal hot temp PSI?  Are they free of pickup and rocks?  Did you check to see if that wheel is not bent?  I had a wheel that depending on how it was rotated changed the camber 0.2 degrees, it was just .050" variance. 

 

Again, make sure your surface is completely level, just taking mine off the scales and putting in on the floor changes my camber by 0.3 degrees(including accounting for floor slope)

 

This is all completely anal but I share Keith's experience of pulling my fricken hair out chasing stuff.  

 

Finally get a friend to come over, with his camber gauge.  An extra set of eyes, tools and brain cells usually helps. 

[Parity]

Well, after trying several control arms, ball joints, spindles, we managed to get 3 degrees. I was at the track this weekend discussing this issue and did a side by side check with another 1.6. The driver told me and we confirmed he's got 3.5-3.6 degrees up front which has remained consistent even after replacing control arms, etc. The main difference was his ride height being pretty low. 

 

I did manage to get a lot of info on how to achieve more camber using "race prepped parts":o

[Bench Racer]

I did manage to get a lot of info on how to achieve more camber using "race prepped parts":o

Maybe the word should be "selected parts". 

[davew]

If everything is correct, there is no need for "race prepped" or "selected" parts. If you can not get the numbers you want something is wrong. Bent arm? Bent ball joint? bent subframe? Wrong ride height?

 

Dave

[Rob Burgoon]

If everything is correct, there is no need for "race prepped" or "selected" parts. If you can not get the numbers you want something is wrong. Bent arm? Bent ball joint? bent subframe? Wrong ride height?

 

Dave

 

What would you say is the max negative you should be able to get at say... 1/2" of shock travel?  Or some other height you know well?

[DrDomm]

What would you say is the max negative you should be able to get at say... 1/2" of shock travel?  Or some other height you know well?

 

And what about NB's?  What's the "max" there?  And is the "max" camber also the "preferred" camber typically?