18 replies to this topic

[Chris Blough]

I can't imagine that this topic hasn't come up before, but my search-fu is failing me. I have a 94 NA, and there is a slight play in the steering wheel, no matter what position it is in.

 

There's no movement on the hub side of the equation, and the shaft leading down to the steering rack from the firewall doesn't move at all when I feel the play in the wheel -- it's somewhere between the lower shaft that connects to the rack and the steering hub.

 

Rather than replace everything, what's the most likely cause?

[Alberto]

I have 2 bit coins on the problem being the Quick Disconnect / steering wheel hub. 

 

What kind of QD system are you using? 

[Chris Blough]

It's a Momo wheel and hub. The splined shaft in the center moves with the play -- it doesn't seem to be in the QD.

[Caveman-kwebb99]

All depower racks have play or lag or whatever. It is the power steering valve in the system... when powered you move the wheel and the fluid starts to move through once depowered you move wheel but there is no fluid moving so so nothing happens to you turn the wheel further.

[LarryKing]

All depower racks have play or lag or whatever

 

Yep, switched to a manual rack two years ago and immediately liked the feel. Less weight too.

[Chris Blough]

So, is there an easy way to  identify a depowered rack? The thing /looks/ manual to me, but I am the third owner of the car, so, I just don't know -- what can I tell you, I'm a noob. Assuming it is a formerly powered rack, is it as simple as changing the steering column and bolting a new rack in place to swap to a manual?

[LarryKing]

If it's got "fittins" (hose inlet/outlet) it's a power rack. No need to swap column.

[Bench Racer]

Chris, here you go, keep hitting the word "next" for the next picture. This is a tutorial on how to de-power a power steering. It also shows where the power steering lines attach to the steering unit for a power steering. If you have these lines and their caped/pluged it is a de-powered unit. If you do not have these lins attachment points on the steering gear. it's a manual rack. A power rack has a quicker steering gear ration that a manual rack. Power rack, a bit harder to turn (really not an issue). The manual rack has a slower steering gear ratio and is easier to turn. 

 

http://www.flyinmiat...depower.php?x=1

[Caveman-kwebb99]

_{a manual rack costs about $550 from mazda and it bolts right in...  When i did mine recently took 30 minutes to remove depowered rack and 15 minutes to install the manual, then took a few minutes to set the toe on the front of the car.}

 

_{Very simple to do even a caveman can do it!}

[Chris Blough]

A picture's worth at least a few thousand words -- I have a manual rack. Learning that was worth the price of admission.

 

So...since it's a manual rack, what's my next best option? Like I said, the shaft that connects to the rack, all the way to the firewall, doesn't move at all when the slight play can be seen in the wheel. I pulled the wheel off today, and it's for sure not the QD hub. It's somewhere in between.

[Tom Hampton]

There is a u-joint in the column up under the dash against the firewall. Perhaps that has some slop? I've never looked that closely at it to see if that could be a cause.

[LarryKing]

Tie-rod ends

[Caveman-kwebb99]

Tie-rod ends

 

Very well could be!, it is also possible that the gears are just worn inside the manual box. Either way needs found and fixed or replaced...

[Glenn]

Tie-rod ends

Probably inners.....

[Glenn Davis]

There is a u-joint in the column up under the dash against the firewall. Perhaps that has some slop? I've never looked that closely at it to see if that could be a cause.

 

Gotta agree here.  If the movement is isolated to between the QD and firewall, I believe this is the only non-solid part.

[davew]

There are 2 long bolts that hold the steering colume to the dash crossbar. I have seen these come loose and/or break. There is supposed to be a steel shim under these bolts, if the shim is missing, there is no amount of tightening that will be enough. The shim is tapered, if installed the wrong way the wheel will be loose.

 

Dave

[Chris70]

What Dave said.

[Chris Blough]

So, I thought I'd update this thread for posterity's sake.

 

The problem turned out to be 2 different issues.

 

1) Just like Davew said, one of the two long bolts had backed out. A dab of blue Loctite and some torque fixed it.

2) The bolt that tightens the shaft/firewall u-joint collar had backed out to the point I could turn it with my fingers. After tightening that (and the above fix) the steering felt like showroom new. There was barely any perceptible play at all, and that's a very tiny amount in the rack.

[Cy Peake]

I used some washers (or maybe the spacers from the stock seat belt base connections) on those two long bolts near the ignition switch to move the steering column down a bit (I have a 4" extension to get the wheel closer to my body, NASCAR-style).  Works great and my skinny arms are bent rather than straight out like some of you guys.  More leverage means moar better driving from this racer.