17 replies to this topic

[x2nervisx]

Hello all.. I'm a complete newbie on Miatas.  I just purchased a 1994 Miata R a few days ago in hopes to eventually get into spec miata racing.  The overall car was in good shape with a good body and some upgrades done on the car already.  The car came with:

 

-depowered steering rack

-Mishimoto Aluminum radiator

-KYB AGX adjustable shocks with Flyin Miata Springs

-Hard Dog Hardcore roll bar

-OEM Hardtop

-Most of the interior gutted

-Torsen differential

 

 

I am already trying to price out some welding labor to install a full roll cage (either from Miatacage or Advance Autosports).  I'm still undecided on which, however a lot of threads that I've searched highly recommend Miatacage however the Advanced Autosports cage is $250 cheaper and is from a reputible company and that's who I'm leaning towards.  If you have any other opinions, please don't hesitate to reply here.

 

My main question is regarding rust underneath the car.   I was replacing the transmission fluid with Redline MT-90 and the diff fluid with Redline 75-90 gear oil as recommended on several threads and while I was under the car I noticed quite a bit of rust on the control arms and bolts.  I also noticed a considerable amount of rust on the diff.  The part of the diff with the cooling fins is completely fine and not corroded however the front part of the diff is severely rusted.  As far as the control arms. how much is too much rust?   I've attached pictures to help you see what I'm seeing.  I'm assuming I can wire brush most of the rust off the control arms and either repaint them or powder coat them but I'm not sure the bolts holding the in are going to be easy to unscrew.  I've read a few threads that a lot of people recommend POR-15 but it's pretty expensive stuff.  Any ideas of what I should do? 

 

I saw a completely stock (except for an upgraded bilstein suspension set up) MY 2000 miata for sale locally for a little less than what I paid for my 1994 miata with the same amount of miles.   I was considering buying that car and transferring the hard top, torsen diff and manual power steering over to it and selling the 94.   But from what I saw in the pictures, I noticed rust on both sides of the rocker panels and the rear fenders so I'm afraid that it'll have the same amount of rust underneath.   And from what I've read, body panels are more expensive to replace on the NBs and since I'm completely new at this, I shouldn't go this route.   What are your takes on this?  Should I go the NB route or stick to the NA?

Attached Files

•  DSC04582 (Large).JPG   136KB   16 downloads
•  DSC04587 (Large).JPG   129.36KB   17 downloads

[x2nervisx]

more

 

[Kevin Anderson]

The surface rust in itself is not a problem, other then cosmetic. But I would disassemble as much as possible. Because it will be hell trying to do trackside repairs and dealing with some of those bolts.

I am on Long Island also you are welcome to contact me through private message, and I can give you my number. If you end up local to me I can take a look as well,

Any chance this car got wet during Irene or Sandy?

[svvs]

Where on the island are you?

 

I agree with Kevin....surface rust is no big deal, but doing an alignment on that car would be the worst.

 

As for the cage...how tall are you?  Really important thing to consider when putting a cage into one of these cars.  If you're taller than 5'11" consider also buying a seat and going to a place like Planet Miata and have the cage done so everything fits.

 

People will say the 2000 car would be a better car for SM.....I drive a 1991 though because it's what I have.

 

-Vick

[x2nervisx]

Good to see some people local to me!   I am in Deer Park.  After doing some research last night, I am now leaning towards the miatacage for my  car.   Do you guy have any recommendations on who can install this cage for me?   I looked up planet miata but I see they're located in PA which is a little too far for me.  I am 5' 7'' so I am on the short side and shouldn't have a problem with cage height.  

 

As far as the surface rust,  should I do anything about it?  Isn't my diff on the extreme side of rusty or should I also leave it alone?   

 

And lastly,  the 2000 miata I was looking at is $2000 but it has 212k miles and is completely stock except the recently installed bilstein suspension and sway bars.  Should I consider getting that or sticking to what I have?

[David Brown]

I think that car has had a salt water bath.

[LarryKing]

Is your tetanus vaccine current?

 

But I would disassemble as much as possible. Because it will be hale trying to do trackside repairs and dealing with some of those bolts.

 

Sage advice. I'd start with a shit-ton of PB Blaster. (I didn't actually type "crap-ton")

[AW33COM]

Nothing that can't be done, but it's just 10 times easier and cheaper to buy a ready Spec Miata.  Any cheap car for the first year will do to get your seat time and learn all this stuff, before you buy/build your "target" car.

 

Big plus for Planet Miata or Flatout Motorsports in our area. 

[Ron Alan]

A running, straight 00 miata for $2k?? It would already be in my garage regardless of what I was going to do! Do know your current diff is the wrong gear ratio for SM...so it will need to be changed anyways! I would keep the hardtop, sell the 94 and buy the 2000. If youre lucky the NB will have a torsen...but you can always source this. 

 

Edit...I read our post again...the rust in the unibody could be a deal breaker but I would go look close! And as some have said, either your car was underwater or lived its whole life up and down a coastal road that got ocean spray/fog on it. The rustiest car I ever saw lived its life in Maui...until it got shipped to CA. Looked great in pictures and even when you walked up to the car. but when I stuck my head under the car it looked like your diff...ALL OVER!! Then I could see the rust bubbleing thru the door bottoms and rocker panels...exit, stage left!!

[Alberto]

I'm from Long Island.  the car I built had spent it's whole 180k mile life in NY.  It was never garaged.  7 of those years parked in a driveway in the elements.  It was nowhere near that rusty.  Even so, I replaced every single nut and bolt on the suspension and brakes.  I could not remove the lower shock bolts at all.  They were fused to the shock and LCA.  I also had a bear of a time removing the ball joints and spindles from the control arms.  I quickly gave up and wound up replacing all the tie rods, ball joints, control arms, subframes etc.  knowing what I know, I'd quit while I was ahead.

[davew]

That looks like a typical northern car. Invest in a lot of rust penetrant and get a good torch for heating frozen bolts. You will have a lot of them.

 

The time difference between building a northern car versus a southern car can be 50% more manhours. And thousands of dollars in extra parts to purchase.

 

Money spent up front on a clean southern donor may be a lot less than the cost of parts/labor to restore a rusty hulk.

 

This from a guy who just drove a donor from Phoenix to Wisconsin

 

Dave

[wreckerboy]

Although I am currently living "across the river" in scenic NJ, I'm a LI native. My street '90 spent all of its life in Long Beach and looks like that underneath. It's consdiered a clean car for the area. "Clean" is usually defined as "that pile of rust over there looks vaugely like a car. From 20 feet." My race car is from Charlotte, NC and doesn't look like that at all. Every bolt on the race car comes off like it was just installed yesterday, not 24 years ago. Every damn bolt on the street car is a struggle. The first time I did a timing belt service on the thing I had more snapped bolt heads just on the splash shield than I've had in the 15+ years and 250K+ miles on the race car.

 

I have a friend who started with a New England car and had to torch, drill, and massacre every bolt in the suspension taking it part during the initial build. It took him weeks. He wasn't pleased when I told him mine took me less than eight hours, using hand tools.

 

Start with a clean car if you can.Travel if need be. It is so worth it.

 

EDIT: With regards to the cage, while both of those vendors no doubt make a good product, a custom cage is well worth the money. I had mine done by the person who used to do the FlatOut cages, and towed the car to Boston to do so. There are lots of good vendors in the area with Miata experience. I've seen the cages Planet Miata does and would suggest the tow is worth it if they do customer cages. Other good vendors are down in the Summit Point area.

[Marc Cefalo]

Any chance this car got wet during Irene or Sandy?

My thoughts exactly. Sandy took out many miatas. Is that a bad thing? Not always. The key is how long the car sat before the insurance companies got the paperwork straight to auction the car off.

If the car sat longer than a month, the salt water residues make a complete mess of the undercarriage. Basically take the entire suspension,including all the hardware and toss it. Higher than the rocker panel? Well then now were changing electrical harnesses and countless sensors.

I would be VERY hesitant to build from this donor unless you have an inordinate amount of patience and pb blaster!

Vick knows just how important the cage construction is to a spec miata build. Don't skimp.

We've installed cages for people all over the country, near and far. Feel free to pm me for more details.

[x2nervisx]

My thoughts exactly. Sandy took out many miatas. Is that a bad thing? Not always. The key is how long the car sat before the insurance companies got the paperwork straight to auction the car off.

If the car sat longer than a month, the salt water residues make a complete mess of the undercarriage. Basically take the entire suspension,including all the hardware and toss it. Higher than the rocker panel? Well then now were changing electrical harnesses and countless sensors.

I would be VERY hesitant to build from this donor unless you have an inordinate amount of patience and pb blaster!

Vick knows just how important the cage construction is to a spec miata build. Don't skimp.

We've installed cages for people all over the country, near and far. Feel free to pm me for more details.

 

 

Unfortunately I am unable to PM since I am new here and don't have enough posts.  I would like to find out more about getting a cage done in my miata whether it be my current rusty 94 or if I end up getting the 2000 miata. 

[Ron Alan]

Unfortunately I am unable to PM since I am new here and don't have enough posts.  I would like to find out more about getting a cage done in my miata whether it be my current rusty 94 or if I end up getting the 2000 miata. 

I'm sure that 2000 is gone since you posted this HERE 24hrs ago  

[x2nervisx]

I'm sure that 2000 is gone since you posted this HERE 24hrs ago  

 

 

Well I actually took an hour and a half trip to Connecticut last night to see the 2000 miata and I didn't come back home with it.  It ended up having more rust than my car and I took Kevin Anderson's advice and took a look at the front frame rail underneath the airbox.  It was rusted so bad that when I was poking the rail with my finger through the wheel well, half my fist went through the rail.  Passenger side rail was also pretty rusted and both rocker panels were severely rusted with a huge chunk missing from the passenger side.   I guess I should have expected it since the seller was throwing in an extra set of wheels with snow tires on them which means it was driven all winter long.    The seller told me that if I didn't but it, another person building a spec miata was going to take a look at it.  I just hope they noticed the crumbling frame rails in the engine compartment! 

[LarryKing]

The Carolinas are beautiful this time of year.

 

Here's one - the price looks right and it's pre-dented - perfect for SM.

 

http://raleigh.craig...4026558682.html

[x2nervisx]

The Carolinas are beautiful this time of year.

 

Here's one - the price looks right and it's pre-dented - perfect for SM.

 

http://raleigh.craig...4026558682.html

 

If only it were closer, I would go and take a look at it.