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Lighting & cabinet/work space recommendations for new garage?

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#1
Sphinx

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I'm building a townhouse that will have a relatively huge garage, 25" x 20".  Going to epoxy the floors and the two biggest things I haven't figured out are how to light it up and what economy cabinet solution to use.


The garage comes with the standard overhead light in the "front" 1/3 of the garage.  I've had the builder install a second light in the last 3rd.  Now I want them to be nice and bright when I'm working in the garage.  So, I imagine that large, industrial fluorescents are the way to go.  But I want to make sure I don't get too much lighting or the wrong kind.  Suggestions are welcome.

 

I want some decent looking cabinets in the garage, but nothing fancy or shabby.  I was thinking maybe some cheap-o IKEA ones, but I'm not convinced that's the best solution.  I've seen the metal ones from Costco or Home depot, but those seem cheap in terms of quality.  Ideas?

 

I asked the builder to skip putting in a dining room (which goes directly over the garage) to accomodate a lift, but somehow that didn't make it to the final blueprint....



#2
Tom Hampton

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I have a 36 x 36 metal building.  I use the large industrial flourescent lighting.  Works fine.  I'm not sure there is such a thing as "too much". If there is, I haven't found the limit. 

 

In the year round humidity of GA, I wouldn't go with IKEA.  Most of their stuff is press-board of one kind or another.  That stuff disolves in water.  Besides it can't hold any appreciable weight without sagging.   Metal or plywood cabinets for unconditioned spaces, is my rule.

 

Honestly, I prefer shelving and storage containers to cabinetry.  Criters (bugs, rodents) always seem to find their way into the shop, and make homes in the backs of cabinets.  Sealed plastic containers seem to fair better in my neck of the woods.  I always build my own shelves out of 2x4s and 5/8" plywood...generally runs $80-100 for 64 - 80 sq feet of shelves.  Build this way they can hold 100s' of pounds per shelf. 


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#3
Alberto

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I'm also a fan of shelves vs cabinets.  I want everything where I can easily see it rather than opening and closing random doors looking for stuff cuz I can't remember where I put it.   :faint:

 

That said, Sears has some nice garage stuff.  

 

i'm trying to figure out what to do about lights also.  Interested in seeing what people say.


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#4
Parity

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I originally installed fluorescent lights but replaced them with T5. Huge improvement, way more "natural" light and I haven't replaced a bulb in three years.
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#5
Tom Hampton

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I've built a few workshops over the years.  As far as lighting, here's my rule of thumb:

 

1.  I use standard 48" / 40w flourescent tubes. 

2.  I usually use shoplights (two tubes per fixture), but I also have a couple of 4 tube industrial fixtures.

3.  I run shop light fixtures the full width of all work surfaces. 

4.  For deep work tables, I place shop light fixtures every 4 feet.

5.  I placed one 4-tube industrial fixture directly over the engine compartment where I normally work on the car.

6.  I have another shoplight fixture over the trunk area.

 

My main work area is 24x36.  Given that I have a full woodshop in the same space, that gives me 10 fixtures with 22-40w bulbs in the work area.  There are some places that are not as well lit because they are far away from the normal work areas (the storage shelving, mostly). It is by no means "brighter than the sun".  I'm sure you could add another 50% by filling in spaces that aren't directly light.  My office area at work has 96 watts of lighting for every 20 sq feet.

 

The shoplights are cheap, but they don't last forever (3 years or so is good, in unconditioned spaces), and they can be finicky in the cold.  As they fail I'm replacing them with better fixtures. 

 

If you upgraded to T5 bulbs (54W) you could probably get away with a little less than the above...but, I wouldn't.  Just enjoy the brighter light. 

 

Finally...the color of your surroundings makes a big difference.  My previous shop had whitish walls, and 10 foot ceilings.  My new one has much darker walls, and 20 foot ceilings.  the taller ceiling is nice, but a lot of light energy is "lost" to the space because it doesn't reflect back down.  the whole space seems just a bit dimmer even with about the same wattage of lighting per sq. ft. 


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#6
CruzanTom

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Are there any LED lights that would be cost effective in a shop area?

 

Tom


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#7
Tom Hampton

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Are there any LED lights that would be cost effective in a shop area?

 

Tom

 

Cost effective is relative, I suppose.  What I saw was $150 for a single 24x48" light panel.  That's 3x the cost of an equivalent  4-bulb industrial panel. 

 

For a couple panels worth (which might work in a single bay of a garage), it might be no big deal.

 

But, with my wood shop + race car work areas...I'd need, at least, 8 and possibly as many as 12 panels to light my shop.   At $1200 - $1800...I can buy a LOT of florescent tubes, and replacement fixtures over the life of the shop for that cost delta. 

 

Maybe there's a cheaper source for LED light panels besides the Big Box stores. 

 

But, at the price above, I think I'd rather buy some tires. 


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#8
CruzanTom

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Thanks. I am designing and planning a garage and workshop. I would spend a little more up front on lights to save on long term costs. BUT, I need lots of tires, too!


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#9
Greg Kimble

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My shop is about the same size as yours, 25' x 30" I am using high output florescent lights, I have three 8' fixtures with two bulbs per fixture.  I believe these are the T5 bulbs.....lights it up very nicely.  However I don't think these are "code" for residential use, so we took down the inadequate lighting our builder installed and replace it with these after we got our certificate of occupancy.

 

As for storage, I have shelves floor to ceiling across the front wall, they came from an Advance Auto Parts store that was redoing their inventory shelves so metal and wood and no issues with support, also have a metal frame with particle board shelf from lowes, the particle board has warped due to humidity.

 

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#10
Danny Steyn

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Oooooh, I so love garage threads!!!! Where are the photos guys. Gearhead's mancaves are their garages. 


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#11
Sphinx

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My shop is about the same size as yours, 25' x 30" I am using high output florescent lights, I have three 8' fixtures with two bulbs per fixture.  I believe these are the T5 bulbs.....lights it up very nicely.  However I don't think these are "code" for residential use, so we took down the inadequate lighting our builder installed and replace it with these after we got our certificate of occupancy.

 

As for storage, I have shelves floor to ceiling across the front wall, they came from an Advance Auto Parts store that was redoing their inventory shelves so metal and wood and no issues with support, also have a metal frame with particle board shelf from lowes, the particle board has warped due to humidity.

 

Greg

 

Do you remember where you got yours from?  If I use a standard 48" bulb, then I'll probably need 2 side by side to light up the width of the garage.  I spent some time looking at one of the big box stores' website last night and their choices were crappy looking.  The best ones I saw hung with chains, rather than were flush with the ceiling.  I'd prefer to get a flush mount that's attractive, if it can be done.



#12
greengreengreen

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Here is something I found out when I recently added some LED lighting.

 

Workbench lighting is more valuable than overhead lighting.

 

LED lighting has a variety of broadcast for the lamps.

 

When using 170 degree lamps on my work bench and lathe I have virtually eliminated shadows.  I can see the workpieces much better than with florescent lighting.



#13
Greg Kimble

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I purchased the lights from Lowes, if I remember correctly the fixtures were about $50 ea plus the bulbs.  They are flush mounted.....my shop is unfinished inside so they are screwed into the roof trusses.

 

Greg


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#14
RacerX

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Oooooh, I so love garage threads!!!! Where are the photos guys. Gearhead's mancaves are their garages. 

 

Check out this site, but be prepared for the time warp - the next time you look up at the clock several hours will have passed.

 

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

 

If you use the search tool, some guy on this site provided a designer's rule set, to include formulas that include the means to calculate different levels of light based upon room size, height, reflective properties, etc...  BUT using the search feature increases above time dimension worm hole at least 4 fold.



#15
Sphinx

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TV in the garage questions:

 

How will a modern HDTV hold up in a garage environment that will have a significant swing in temperature over time (winters in the 40's, summers 90's)?

 

In configuring the space, I chose a less than ideal place for the TV, but it looks like it will be mounted adjacent to the electric panel.  Should I be concerned about electrical interference from it?  The TV will be on a swing mount that will allow it to be moved out of the way very quickly to access the panel if necessary.  I had the builder put in conduits to an interior closet to hide the cabling and an electric plug for power that's at the same level as the mount.

 

For lights, I decided to convert two bare bulbs into electrical sockets.  Then I'll be getting 4 48" lights to be mounted roughly at the front and rear of each bay.  If I get a better idea, I'll let you guys know.  I'd love to do some LED lighting if I could find a not-so-crazy-expensive solution.



#16
Jim Boemler

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Rather than using sockets (instead of bare bulbs), I'd suggest flush-mounting fluorescent fixtures right over the boxes for the lights.  I use two 8-foot fluorescents to cover a garage just slightly larger than yours, which works nicely.  Also, a brilliant white ceiling and light-colored wall stuff helps a lot.  My shelving (all 3/4" ply) is painted a light gray, and any wall space is painted white light like the ceiling.

 

Using 8-foot units gives better coverage with less wiring,  BTW, the code is only interested in the wiring, I don't think there's any issue with fluorescents -- you should be worry-free on that score as long as you wire them properly.  You might need permits, though.



#17
dstevens

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I had an HD flatscreen in the shop for a while.  The most harsh thing that happened was a hundred race deck tiles collapsed on it when the shelf gave way...   This shop sees a lot of cutting, welding, grinding, some painting. The biggest challenge was keeping the screen clean.   I got rid of it because I could never hear it when I was working (unless I put PA speakers on it) and it was distracting.  If the space is more a man cave or garage mahal either won't be an issue. There shouldn't be any interference from the electrical panel.

 

For lights I use four fixtures of high output fluorescent, 72". They were around $80 each with lamps at Lowes about five years ago but they stopped carrying them a while back but now have the same sort of thing in a grow light but only 4'.   The shop is used as a full time metal fab shop making 3D printer frames but still has a half built SM pushed off to the side.  ;)






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